l75eya

Would def. bleed the brakes. E-brake is tighter because of the bigger pads in the front now. If you want to you can adjust the cable at the handle (I believe; somebody should correct me if I'm wrong) to have a bit more slack; give you some more clicks . From what I've heard and experienced with these vehicles, the brakes always feel a *little* bit mushy. You get used to it. As far as the caliper hitting the wheel, that's real strange. Try swapping a different wheel on there maybe, if it's still rubbing. If it's really barely barely rubbing, I'd personally just let it grind itself away a bit. *shrugs* that's me though.

What are you lined up with there? A mustang and....the middle car looks like.....infiniti? Honda?

Quick Q. Did your check engine light come on, and furthermore go out after you replaced the solenoid?

Yeah if you get some life with starter fluid then you definitely know there is some type of fuel problem. Like was mentioned earlier, definitely just jump the fuel pump just to see if it's functioning, that way you'll further narrow down whether it's a mechanical issue (the pump not working) or some type of electrical issue (relays, fuses, wiring, etc). Should be easier to first just run power direct to the pump and listen. Be safe when working around your fuel tank. And to elaborate on pulling codes a little more; after you remove the plastic trim under the steering wheel, there's a mess of wires, and a metal plate with a small hole in the center. Turn the ignition to ON and you will see the light blink. Now you'll have located the diag. LED. To put the vehicle in diagnostic mode, connect the two white connectors under the hood on the driver's side and switch the key ON. The connectors are right next to the fuel filter.

Not sure if anybody mentioned this yet, but try seeing if it'll sputter or fire up briefly with some starter fluid sprayed into the intake. Be mindful of the engine backfiring while you're doing this however....

You know, this thread will actually lead to an answer for something I've been thinking for a bit now. SPFI >>> Weber, right? No matter how sophisticated the carb, fuel injection is always more efficient/powerful I think. Don't quote me on that though lol.

I went through Wyoming 80 percent of the time at WOT and was sometimes barely maintaining 45 in 3rd gear in my 5spd GL. (Rockies) This was with well over 1,000 lbs of weight in people + stuff on our way to burning man in Nevada. And was after driving across the rest of the country all the way from New Jersey.

That kinda talk got me into a bit of a stewing pot on this board at one time. Which is what lead to this thread actually lol. Trying to illustrate just how difficult parking is round these here parts And yes, really do wish parking wasn't as difficult in this area, but I tell you what, these cars are awesome to parallel park.

And I'd like more info on this one! lol what's it from, any idea?

I will not let it die! This was just yesterday. Because of the accident and the bumper being all mangled, it looks like it's touching, but there is about half an inch of gap space.

Haha! I posted that lol. It's on Staten Island just about an hour away from me. Believe me, it's been considered lol. All depends on what the settlement comes out to though. Sidenote: As of 2:00 PM EST that listing has been ended due to "the item no longer being available". I wonder if somebody snatched it up and if so, hope they pop up on this board some time.

Ahhh, it's just a vacuum unit? Idk it just seems different looking to me on this vehicle than on my own. This is a very nice low mile loyale on ebay I was looking at. Here's a link if anybody is interested. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1993-SUBARU-LOYALE-One-Owner-76-295-Original-Miles-/220972385379?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3372fb0463

What is that con-fangled conglomoration tech type thing that is mounted behind the pass. side strut tower? Very top left part of the view. Air pump? This loyale wouldn't have air suspension though..... Any ideas?

PM me your email

me wonders zee same ting.

Thanks for the replies all! I'm pretty rest assured it's going to be totaled, but not too concerned about that considering the way they value the car though. These cars are so hard to find in this area that when they do sprout up, they're very low mileage and in excellent shape, which is how this one was (sniff). At least it's still low mileage . Should be getting it scoped out by a claims adjuster sometime this week! Have also noticed that the impact did something to the exhaust, and Ben now has a really awesome low growl when he's being put through some paces. Not complaining about that.

****Updates**** Finally got a copy of the police report. Gotta get a hold of State Farm insurance tomorrow. Apparently the Honda person didn't even report the accident to her insurance, so I get the pleasure of that now. It seems that in NJ the way they pro-rate a vehicle to determine if it is a total loss or not is for them to use their own resources to locate at least 3 vehicles of a similar year and mileage, and average the resale value of those three vehicles. Good luck to them finding any around here.... The car is pouring anti-freeze now while it is running, and the electric fan shroud was bent in the accident, rendering the fan immobile, making in pop fuses, so no fan. The clutch fan was removed a few months ago. I was going to put it back for now, but the car has honestly not been running hot. Only if I'm sitting at a very long traffic light, or if I'm sitting stopped in traffic will the temp gauge start to climb, but so far by the time traffic starts moving or the light changes, it's gotten nowhere near any dangerous mark and immediately drops down to a normal level once I get rolling. Also have noticed that the horn no longer functions, as well as the in-dash clock. All fuses (except the elec. fan) check out fine. Bit confused by this one (more so the clock than the horn. Thinking the horn got crushed..)

Thanks kerandt, that definitely is the most important thing in these situations. And rugby; I know. It looks so sad now. I can't even touch the car until the insurance companies see it first, so for now it's being used while leaking anti-freeze, and the shroud on the electric fan is bent as well, so the fan can't spin and blows fuses. =\ Thankfully, he doesn't seem to want to overheat or even run too hot at all without the fan for now. Can't wait till I can get to work on him though..

93 octane in the Loyale. He pings with 89 or 87.

Just get a new oil pump. That has (from what I've read and in my personal experience) solved the ticking problem 99.99 percent of the time. You can get new seals for your existing oil pump and it will solve the problem, but an oil pump will run you about 50 bucks, and if you are going to go through the trouble of having the engine torn down a bit to do the seals, spend the money and get a new oil pump on there. When was the last time it was replaced? You should do it now. And if you can swing it, I'd recommend throwing in a new water pump while you're at it, but that's up to you. Would definitely, definitely recommend just getting a new oil pump though. Good luck!

So the g/f was in an accident on a local highway. Thankfully she is just fine, her seat belts locked up, the car did it's job and kept her safe. Ben, however, has seen better days. What happened apparently was she was in the far left passing lane going through a construction zone doing about 45. The traffic in the right lane next to her was heavier and moving at roughly 35 mph. Some chick in a late 90's honda accord decided to switch lanes, apparently didn't see the g/f and ben coming up in the left lane (assuming Ben was in her blind spot) and she switch into the left lane without signalling still doing about 35 mph. Ben was approximately half a car length behind the accord when it switched lanes in front of her and was going a bit faster. G/f did not have enough time to slow down and whacked the front into the accord's driver's side quarter. This is after I just did a ton of work to Ben too, and he was running like a champ. Finally fixed his coolant leak and replaced the waterpump, but now the radiator is leaking, so we got to enjoy 1 whole day of trouble free motoring, and now we're back to filling him up with antifreeze when we need to use him. Here's some pictures; The fan shroud is real close to the cam gear. Buckled the upper rad. hose. Pushed the hood support into the rad. All the lights still work, nothing cracked thankfully. Headlight has a bad ground so it's dim now. Blew a fuse for the clock and horn. Got some work ahead of me for this if the insurance deems it a total loss. If not, then finally we'll have a shop do some work instead of me! haha. Glad she is alright, and glad Ben is still drivable. He needs to get her to school and clinicals every day. He has been a trooper and he will be fixed no matter what.

Is it okay to only run 1 belt? I did the latter yesterday (took compressor out but put all the brackets back) and put on one belt, but I didn't like the idea of it. Is this a confirmed safe thing? lol

New water pump on Ben Also new; -Dist cap -rotor -NGK plugs -NGK wires (they look awesome in there) -fuel filter -checked timing -mobil 1 oil change + -mobil 1 filter -air filter Ben is now running top notch. 82,000 miles and strong as an ox.

Are you ticking at all? I agree with above, check out the oil pump.