l75eya

Does it light a cigarette lighter? Sometimes you gotta twist around and play with accessory connectors to get them to make contact right.

lol, somebody should start a poll. What happened to Ned? a.) He moved himself. b.) His owner forgot he moved him. c.) He was pushed d.) He was the victim of racial profiling.

I have done the exact same thing to Ben and he is exhibiting the exact same results. Little more throttle response, can hear the engine better now (no more WHIIRRRRRRRR), and the elec. fan pops on at just the right time to bring the temp down a little bit. Still think I as well am going to get an AUX fan to run in there just in case. Gonna work on pulling the compressor out when I do the waterpump soon...

To add on topic, my wipers are horrible. Can't wait to get that sorted out. I have to peek around the windshield while driving in rain to find the spots I can see through haha.

If it's a stick-shift and you left it in neutral with just the emergency brake on, somebody could have easily just pushed it with their vehicle.

lol, I read through this and my GL has basically every symptom GD describes earlier that could cause backfiring. Bad wires, bad plugs, bad distributor cap, worn rotor, it's running very rich and I have a huge, huge hole in the exhaust at the Y pipe, which started small, but after a couple backfires, got louder and louder, and it's actually a bit larger than a softball. My car is loud. And back-fires. A lot. Ahhh, money. lol

Hello! *wave* Really like that RX you got there. Especially those rims on the back, those are pretty awesome.

Looks awesome! Congrats again, I'm a bit jealous, that thing is clean. Just double clutch into 3rd and you should be good! lol

Have you retightened the carb? After you rebuild a carb and install it on the car, it's a good idea (due to vibration while running) to take it off again and go over every bolt on it and retighten it. Don't mean disassemble it again, i mean all the bolts that mate the different parts of it together. Just make sure it's all tight. This suggestion comes from the old Rochester carbs I rebuilt for 70's chevys. Retighten it down to the manifold too after a bit.

That poor cement support. Having dirty audi all up on it =\ haha

"In 2003 I just really didn't give a ************." I didn't really give much of a ************ in 2003 either. Funny!

Do you have a donut on it right now, or a full size spare?

Cookie would be cool. Or beer! Beer is always accepted lol

A spin-off from the controversial complaining about my rear ride height while parking thread. Photographic evidence of pain-in-the a** spots.

If I'm not mistaken you can get a GL/Loyale wagon up to 94.

And I know you're grieving and I'm sorry to ask so soon, but if it does go to a yard, could you let me know? I need a windshield... Don't mean to be insensitive. I'm sorry for your loss. I'd be pretty upset. Hopefully my over-cautious way of asking made you laugh lol Would definitely be up to taking a drive up there when I had the chance by the way, just let me know a bit in advance when/if you have some projects coming up

You know, I only live about 3 hours away from you. Maybe one of these days when it starts getting warmer out and you have some work set up to do on the cars I can drive up there and lend a hand. Sorry about the wagon, though. It doesn't look *too* bad. Try and get us some more pictures. If worse comes to worst hopefully the engine is unharmed and you can just throw it in another well kept car.

Looking forward to the pictures! Congratulations on your trade!

I know you said you replaced the t-stat, but it totally sounds like a stuck open t-stat. Was it new, or used; the replacement?

That sounds about right. Ben is at 4000 rpm when cruising at around 66 mph. He usually gets around 25 mpg and he is very well maintained. *edit* Just read through entirely and saw what car I'm comparing to. Ben is a 3speed auto, My GL is a 5 speed though and I'm surprised to hear the mileages you guys record with them. I usually get 30+ mpg in my GL on the highway. I've hit half a tank with over 250 miles on the trip odometer, regularly. Just seems strange....though my car does only have 57,000 miles.

Ben's fuel pump has been doing this since we got him 40,000 miles ago. He is SPFI. Turn the blinker on sit at a stop light and you hear the pump going rrrrrr-eeee-rrrrr-eeee-rrrrr-eeeee with the blinker.

Yeah nothing at all. And yes it is under that boot that I hear the clicking. It will only click when the key is being held in the 'start' position. It doesn't do it when the key is in the 'on' position. The weird thing is that usually when this condition occurs, if I hold the key in the start position, and start hitting some electrical devices (heater, headlights, windshield wipers) either turning something on or turning something off while holding the key in the start position will get the car to start. *Usually* that will do it. Occasionally nothing like that works, and I have to disconnect the positive terminal of the battery, leave it off for a minute, and then re-attach it and 9 times out of 10 the car will start fine. I'm going to go over all the starter connections and hit them with some electrical component lubricant, as well as try to clean them up. This is the gf's car, and it's just really starting to become a pain in the rump roast when she calls me from 100 miles away saying the car won't start... Thanks for the replies.

That's the weird thing, there's no click or anything. Just that slight ticking noise from under the SPFI thing. (The part on top dead center of the engine, the air intake.) The starter doesn't engage at all. I'm hoping that I can just wire in some type of emergency bypass for when it won't start. I will try cleaning all the contacts, though I don't think that will help. Thanks for the advice though. I'll keep posted what I come up with..

Ben sometimes will not start. Turn the key to start position and all that happens is some solenoid under the SPFI black thing clicks, and the check engine light will pulse. (constant on, dims, bright, dims, bright, rapidly). How can I jump the starter solenoid as a bypass for whenever this happens? Is there a way I can wire in a switch to do it? In theory, what I want is Say I'm in a scenario where the car won't start. It doesn't happen too often, but it happens often enough to be annoying. So say this happens. I want to be able to leave the car in park turn the ignition to ON get out, go under the hood and press a button or something that will jump the solenoid and start the car....

Yes! That altima I mentioned earlier, that was my first car. It was pretty quick, and I used to *fly* around in it, being young and stupid. After that car I had a 93 Dodge Shadow (3 speed auto) and then a 1987 Honda Accord Hatchback ( I liked that car a lot) with a 4 speed auto. Those two cars were extremely slow, and they really did teach me patience. There's no point in rushing from light to light, stop sign to stop sign, and there's really no point in zig zagging through traffic at 100 mph. (unless I am in a hurry ) Moral of the story; my son/daughter is getting something slow for their first car. Something really slow. Anybody know of any good, reliable, capable in snow, extremely slow vehicles from the mid to late 80's? hahaha.