l75eya

Type of Wrenching: Shadetree, because I guess that means not professionally lol. I've loved cars for as long as I can remember, and was always out in the cold helping my brother whenever he was working on his 65 mustang when I was 4, 5, 6 years old. I want to get into it professionally and hope to go to some type of school to get certs and all that jazz. How long doing it: Only been really tearing into cars the past 2 or 3 years. Before that it was all minor stuff, oil change, tune up, simple stuff like that. I worked professionally doing light work, tires, oil and tune up when I was 19. 24 now and starting to work my way into the good stuff. Need to go to school though... Other skills: Low voltage, telecom, computer repair, and all around if it can be taken apart or analyzed, I will do it, and put 99 percent of it back together

Liposuction clinic.

Grab one from another vehicle and swap it in just to see how it performs. And vice versa for your autozone alt. Throw it in another vehicle.

whoops, somehow missed the part about him trying out a replacement alt. About the Autozone alternators though, I've honestly never had a problem with them. However, I'm sure different seaboards of the states get different results in terms of aftermarket parts from such places, so so may be the case out by you guys with the build quality, but I personally have never had an issue. Axles on the other hand....

Is seafoam really all I hear it's cracked up to be? I've been debating using it, as I've heard good, and bad things.

If you're serious into the cameras, for a good 3 - 400 bucks you can set up a digital watchdog system. I used to set them up previously. One or two cameras, a DVR in your garage, and an internet connection and you can view your cameras from any internet capable device (PC, smart phone, etc). You can even set it up for motion detection in your garage and it will alert you via text message if something is moving. Check out ebay.

How about a new alternator?

New belts, fresh mobil 1 oil + filter on Ben. Now he needs a tire .....

Surprised nobody else jumped in here to offer assistance, but glad to hear that you managed to somehow take care of it yourself. Persistence is key with these cars lol

Alright, that's what I figured, if the EGR valve itself is still functioning properly, the only thing left is the solenoid, which may or may not be some disconnected/ fouled wires. I gotta get my hands on an ohmmeter. Thanks for reassuring me on that though. By the way, I found this page http://doc.angaar.ee/subaru/8797CH04_13-1.html that was pretty useful. Might have some other good stuff too.

are you east or west coast? I know a guy in Pennsylvania.

ooo! It's a subaru! haha:clap:

Just cured Ben's ticking by replacing his oil pump. I drove for approximately 10,000 miles with the lifters ticking, sometimes REALLY LOUDLY. I could hear the car coming from 2 blocks away occasionally when the GF was driving. Long story short, 10,000 miles of that, put in a new oil pump and the car sounds good as new. In my experience with the tick, don't sweat it. I just wouldn't do a lot of high speed highway driving, but in terms of just using your car, it's gonna be loud, but it's not causing any long term damage, just a short term (until you fix it) gas mileage / performance hit.

So I've searched and searched. It's hard to find things on small words through search, though I've found a few things about how to remove and clean the egr valve, which I have done. My check engine light came on while he was experiencing his bout with the tick of death. It was oxygen sensor and EGR valve associated. I've since put a new oil pump in and all new seals and the T.O.D. is gone and Ben is happy again. However he still has a CEL. (Code 34) I've taken the EGR valve off and blown out / vacummed the intake passages on both the manifold and the valve itself. Not too much soot in there, but a bit. I reinstalled the egr and tested it. At idle, if I push in the EGR the engine starts fluttering, so I know that the valve itself is okay, correct? I've tried clearing the CEL by connecting both green and white connectors under the hood. With the engine running with these connectors both connected, my CEL is OFF. I let it run quite awhile like this. Disconnected them and the CEL is back on with a vengance. No matter what I do, I can't get the light to go off. I checked what codes are thrown in every combination of connectors with the car running and not running with the ignition on. They are as follows: Car running; Both connected: code 7 (which is not listed in the USRM) White connected only: code 34 Green connected only: code 7 Neither connected: code 34 Car not running ignition on: Both: 7 White: 34 Green: 7 Neither: 34 I'm at a loss =\ any help guys? BTW for those not familiar with Ben he is a SPFI 93 Loyale

hahaha that formula is epic!

So long as you jump positive to positive and ground to a ground on the body of the car or chassis, I'm pretty sure there should be no risk of damage..

Is it a hatchie?

Got those cup holders that hang in the door for the loyale! Gotta find some for my GL now

I have this really super rare edition GL that when you look at the back of it in a mirror it instantly becomes an LG. Life's good.

what a shame

Wish I could help you, but don't get discouraged. Somebody will chime in with something helpful eventually, just gotta be patient for the gurus to take notice.

STICKY! haha

Good luck with your timing belts. If you need a quick reference, MilesFox on here has some excellent how to videos on youtube, the one for T-belts can be found here: . If I were you, I would leave the outer timing belt covers off. Most members here leave them off as well, they are more of a nuisance than anything. It's personal preference though. Leaving them off will make any future work required much, much easier.

+1 I'm thinking about removing my A/C altogether as well. What a waste of space, power, and weight.

And about the reservoir, yeah, it's really easy. Just undo the two hoses, and take out the two bolts and voila, resevoir is off. you can try putting some sealant around it if that's where your leak is. Or maybe the bolts are just loose:brow: haha good luck.