l75eya

Tell her you have a really rare Chevrolet Mustang you'll trade her for it.

As I was once in the same boat, and a fellow member here came to my rescue, I do the same for you my friend. Part #'s here: http://www.subaruworld.net/parts.htm And if you need a bit of a guide with pictures to the process, I did a quick write-up when I replaced my oil pump last week which can be found here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128964

Gonna use a bread bag on my rear axle boot. Times are hard.

I don't think you can sell dogs on ebay dude. Whether they're standard OR metric.

Not a problem at all, just link back here if you can miles. =)

Got some time to tackle the Loyale's tick of death. Got a break in the weather too! 55 - 60 degrees in mid december! w00t This is my first write-up, and I know it's written a bit half-assedly lol, but I figure it's a good way to psyche yourself up and prepare before taking on the job. It is a bit of a job. I'm not too experienced working this deep into engines but I did it and I'm damn proud of myself and loved the work involved. Pictures are at the end of the write up. Anyway, the method I used to do this is going to render your air conditioner completely useless, so, if you don't mind that (does it really blow that cold anymore anyway?) feel free to do this up on your own. If not, then you're going to not want to remove the A/C Condenser and are going to have to somehow work around it. I removed it and it gave me an incredibly wider range of motion/freedom of space to get things done on the engine. And so; Put the car somewhere and bust out the tools and hydrations and tunes. My equipment list was -Tool-set (Socket set + box wrenches) -Blanket to cover ground under car -Bucket to catch Oil -Bucket to catch antifreeze -aluminum can to catch power steering fluid -18" 1/2" drive breaker bar with 22mm socket (for crank pulley) -Big rump roast PVC pipe (about 14 inches long) to fit over breaker bar for more torque -channel locks - 's -Radio Prop the hood up vertical ala MilesFox by pulling your prop rod out at the base and resetting it in a hole on the pass. side strut tower. Get your grille unscrewed and pull it out of the way Disconnect & remove battery + alternator Disconnect the two plugs and remove the electric fan on the pass. side of the radiator. Be very careful not to gouge the radiator while removing this. You can try and remove the four bolts holding the driver's side fan onto the water pump pulley now too if you like. I've had it come off easy and it's cool to get it out of the way early, but if for some reason your fan bolts won't budge, just skip it and wait till later to get a better grip. Disconnect lines and remove power steering resevoir Start disconnecting radiator lines, I pulled the driver's side hose off the water pump feed pipe. use a bucket to catch what little coolant leaks out. Then you're good to remove the passenger side hose as well. If you have an automatic disconnect the transmission lines, there are two of them naturally, and they are small and hard to see (and a pain to pull off). Removing the two bolts that hold the radiator in can help you to move the whole radiator around and get a better grip on those trans lines. As noted previously, I pulled the condenser and radiator out. To access all the bolts I had to remove the underbody panel that goes across the front of the car. I also had to then remove the hood latch and the vertical support bracket. Before removing the condenser bleed the system of all pressure by removing the black dust cap on the a/c line coming off the compressor and push in the pin to let all of the A/C charge release (into a safe container of course, so as not to hurt the atmosphere ) This is about a good time to take a break and enjoy some more You can pull the A/C condenser out from the front of the vehicle, I got it out by angling it and pulling it down behind and under the bumper. You can pull the radiator straight up and out, just be mindful of the hoses still attached to it snagging on things, and be very mindful of the water pump driven fan if you didn't take it off earlier. Once all of that crap is out of the way it's time to start digging in. Seek out all the bolts for the air conditioner/ alternator bracket and then hang the whole thing up and out of the way (see pictures) remove the belt tensioners, take off both belts. Get that fan off finally (now you should have no excuse for not being able to get it to stay still and get at the bolts) It's time to tackle that crank pulley. I hope it's as easy for you as it was for me as this (being inexperienced at all this of course) was the most intimidating thing to me. I just popped open that little cover on the torque converter / flywheel, and found the I think 12 mm bolt on there by turning the crank. Once I found that bolt, I put the box end of a wrench on it, slowly turned the crank until it was up against the bellhousing, and then went to town with the breaker bar on the crank bolt. It took a bit of muscling, but it came loose. Using the PVC pipe on the breaker bar helped big time and I don't think it's possible to do it by hand without some extra torque like the pipe supplies. Once the bolt was out, the pulley came right off and now it was time to get those damn timing belt covers off (for good) Once you've gotten the timing belt covers off, they make decent frisbees so take a frisbee break for now if you like. It's pretty straight-forward from here now, loosen (NOT REMOVE) the bolts holding the timing belt tensioners, take off the timing belts. Now you have access to all the oil pump bolts. Remove the bolts, put a bucket underneath the engine, and pull the pump gently outward. STRAIGHT out. Now you're on your own to figure out how to put it all back together haha hope this was helpful guys. Thanks for all the information as always and whenever I can, I'll help out. If anybody is going through with this job, just send me a PM if you like. The vehicle being operated on in this procedure is the g/f's 93 SPFI automatic FWD Loyale(Left. White fender) Benjamin (Ben) Hooptie . He developed the tick of death about 10,000 miles ago. He ran pretty weak and got horrible (for him) gas mileage through-out his ailment. He is now at 78,800 miles and running good as new = ) Radiator, A/C condenser, Alternator, battery, fan all removed. A/C strung up with bungie cord. Notice the amount of space to work with all these things removed. Lots of access to get to everything you need to do. If you don't care about your A/C, this is definitely the way to work. Crank Pulley removed. Timing belt covers off. Belts were replaced only 15,000 miles ago. Old oil pump visible and trembling with fear. Driver's side. Freshly installed. Be careful that the mickey mouse gasket does not shift while you are sliding the new pump into position. In order to get the oil pump to line up properly, I had to break off a small piece of plastic from the still in place inner timing belt covers. This broken plastic is visible just to the right of the very bottom right of the oil pump. I also removed a small piece of rubber that was above the very top left part of the oil pump (where there is now a small gap between it and the block. DO NOT KING KONG TIGHTEN THE OIL PUMP BOLTS. They WILL snap easily. Snug them down and then give them a little bit more oomph. That's it. Hope this is helpful for some people. Sorry I rambled a bit but....i'm a write up noobie haha. Going to bed now. cheers all and Yaaaaaaaaaay! No more ticking!!! haha!

Okay, got some pictures. Didn't shoot too many as I was just trying to get the job done, but it's all pretty straightforward. I'm going to write up a brief guide to this and post the pictures in a new thread to be linked here as well when done. Write up and pictures can be found here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1068742#post1068742

This...is...AWESOME! Totally participating!

Mine had been previously adjusted and the front is up high, which was cool at one point, the whole car sat up real high, but now my rear shocks are absolutely shot and the rear is sagging, so now it always feels like i'm driving up a hill =P Thank you for the advice, I'm going to hit the back with PB blast right now lol

Be very very careful you do not overtighten those bolts and snap them though. Not fun.

Yeah, it's easy to overlook the danger when you're just sitting in the car pulling, or being pulled, but just give a quick thought to how much strain and tension is on that cable or strap. Thousands upon thousands of pounds if you're giving it a real good pull, and if something gives, all that stored energy has to go somewhere, and you don't have any idea where it's going to go, but wherever it *does* go, it's going to go with some extreme force. Think of having a remotely detonated gun, throwing it spinny style up in the air, and then setting it off. No clue where it's going to shoot, but regardless of where it shoots, it's not going to be safe... But to tie this back into what you are thinking about doing, if you're like me, I don't think you're going to be the 911 recovery subaru getting every stuck vehicle out of it's hole. Just keep the stuff in the car, if you see somebody stuck, offer a helping hand, explain to them that there is a possibility to damage their vehicle, and if they agree, be careful. This is why whenever I see somebody that needs some help, unless they're in a car that is equally as hoopty-looking as my car or worse, I won't offer any help that may end up damaging their vehicle. Btw on a side note, some lady in a 2011 Charger backed into my Loyale in a parking lot. Split her bumper and spiderwebbed the paint. Did nothing to my bumper. Hoopty 1 Mopar 0. Also: That is an AWESOME rig up there....

Is there any thread that leads to a bit of an explanation about how to actually utilize the ability to raise and lower the ride height? I read about it in my chiltons but it was like chinese to me.... I'd like to lower mine in the front and raise it in the back..

Merry Christmas everybody! I hope we all here had great holidays with family and/or friends, and if there was anything not joyful about your holiday, just remember that good things come in waves, ride the negativity with integrity and persistence, and it will lead to good things. Cheers from New Jersey.

You mean *right* before the entrance ramp ends, right? lol

I have the same idea brewing in my mind actually and already have a 3/4" braided steel cable rated for well over what the actual tow hooks on my car can handle I'm sure. Just don't yank people. Slowly taut the line and then begin to pull. Be aware that if you have a 5 speed, you are probably going to wear your clutch away a bit, and if so, while doing so, keep your nose keen for any signs of it burning. Also, pulling vehicles can be dangerous for the other vehicle, know where to attach your line and where not to. The last thing you want is for your act of kindness to turn into a lawsuit when your tow line gouges the shi* out of somebody's bumper and they want it fixed. People take advantage of other people's kindness, and this is why people are being less and less helpful to each other (which is a damn shame). On that note, use common sense, be careful, stand clear of taut lines just in case they snap, and be safe. Also, Merry Christmas

Will be posting pictures as soon as I find the memory card I took the pictures on

I have NO MORE TICK OF DEATH!!!!!!!:headbang: :headbang: lol, for 10,000 miles the car was clacking along without a chance of being fixed but finally the weather broke (55 degrees on december 22nd ) and I had the time and the oil pump is now nice and shiny and new in there and there is........wait for it....... NO MORE TICK OF DEATH!!!! :headbang::headbang: Yes!

I'd really just loosen the fender and pop it out from the other side lol

Thanks for all the tips guys, I really just pull the condenser and radiator for easy access, it's not really a pain to take them out if you don't care about losing your A/C charge. I didn't even have to use the starter bump trick, I just threw a 4 foot long piece of pvc pipe over my breaker bar, put a wrench on the bolt on the torque converter, and the crank bolt came right off Jobs all done now, and NO MORE TICK OF DEATH!!! Thank you to everybody who has assured me a pump re-seal will do the trick 99 percent of the time, it did for mine. I did however just go the next step and replace the pump, but THE TICK IS GONE!!!! I couldn't be more over-joyed Pictures to come because nobody cares but I like to put pictures up so there!

*Update* Seem to be going smooth so far, got the radiator and a/c condensor out so I have some room, haven't gotten the fan off yet, I think the last guy that worked on the car (timing belts) used loc-tite or something on the threads, those bolts are hard enough to get to, and they're not budging. Not to mention the flat spot on the shaft of the fan to grab onto seems to be not very flat. Was a lot easier getting this part done on my GL. Next step it seems is to get the a/c compressor up and out of the way. One thing I'm concerned about a bit, is the crank pulley...would you guys say that the hardest part is getting the bolt off, or is it really necessary to have a gear puller to get the pulley off even after taking the bolt out? Or is it a hit or miss kinda thing, sometimes it comes off, sometimes it doesn't'? Never done that before so it's got me a little concerned. And the key thing, dunno what's up with that but I figure i'll just figure it out when I see it. Either way, back to it tomorrow, hopefully I can make some good progress (and get that damn fan off!) Cheers:)

Thanks! Just checked that out and I was confused because when the pump was shipped to me it was shipped with no seals of anykind, after I contacted the seller about that, he sent me seals seperately, which are the three I mentioned. Turns out that the pump itself has the pulley installed already with that shaft seal in place. I could see it through the little hole in the pulley, so good to know I have everything I need. Now to get a breaker bar and then start tearing into the car. Thanks for the insight!

So I've got my oil pump, and I've got some time, I think I'm going to tackle this T.O.D. once and for all (hopefully) From what I understand, a quick rundown of the steps -Remove fans/radiator (which I intend to flush out with new coolant while I'm at it) -Get everything out of my way (A/c, alt, belts, etc) -Remove crank pulley -Timing belt covers -timing belts coming off -swap out oil pumps -reverse process. Just bracing myself mentally here folks haha The one question I had; my oil pump came with three seals The mickey mouse seal and the oil pump shaft seal pictured here: and here But I also have this small black hard rubber or plastic thing which I'm not quite sure what it's for.... Can anybody shed some light on where this thing goes? I mean if it's necessary I'm sure I'd come across it while doing the job, but for peace of mind, I'd like to know in advance, and are these all the necessary seals? Just those three? Thanks guys and wish me luck lol

One day... I will do a swap, probably to a weber. I mean this car amazes me, because of various reasons, I've barely been able to do any work to the car since I've gotten it, and I've driven it across the country and back, and everywhere else. about 15,000 miles this year and all I've changed are the spark plugs.

buuuump after site redesign..I kinda got trumped while it was down!

My car is not turbocharged. ( ) While accelerating, it surges as if it is, at about the 3300 rpm spot and up. My awesomely little question is, is this phenomenon a.) Just the point with which the engine starts to develop some real power? b.) The practice of the secondary barrel in the carb opening up as I have read about? c.) My invisible non-existant turbocharger spooling and blasting my internal organs into my seat with the explosion of vtec destroying acceleration? Because if it's the secondary carb thing, I want to look into how to have that barrel open all the time (the hitachi carb mod ...)