l75eya

I'm just throwing my thought out here, but I'd try to disable the button, so that you can just enable it when you would like to use it. Idk if the mechanism is vacuum operated, or electric, but if it's electrical, then possibly you can pull a fuse to prevent it from engaging?

On a side note, now that I took a closer look and realized the scrap car was a newer loyale, I was just wondering, what parts are interchangable between the GLs and the Loyales. Obviously, bumpers are diff. But what about stuff like the grille, fenders, etc?

Thought I'd chime in here, was just sifting through ebay and came across this wagon that's listed as being in the pacific northwest. Maybe you could contact the seller and if it's near enough to you, go fetch some parts off of it. Best of luck, sorry about your crunch there. http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-91-92-93-94-LOYALE-MANUAL-TRANSMISSION-/230573660582?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru|Model%3ALoyale&vxp=mtr&hash=item35af42d9a6

he's a spammer. Click that little exclaimation point to report. I'm sure a mod'll run across him sooner or later tho.

Running out of gas probably sucked up some gunk from the bottom of the tank, which is probably clogging up your fuel filter a little bit and also gunking up your carb, which is leading you to get less miles to the gallon than you initially thought you get.

+1 on alternator.

Just tell him you run your car without any oil in it because that way it improves the warmth of your heater. =)

*tear* okay already! Just stop it! I'll take it!

So, I never really jumped in the meet n' greet. Kinda jumped right into wrenching on my car so I am in the tech forums a lot lol, I think it's absolutely awesome that there is a good, active community involved with these vehicles we drive and are passionate about! This place really rocks, and I'd also like to take this opportunity to thank you all for your input and feedback and help for everything I've dealt with thus far and may in the future! With all that good fun stuff out of the way, I am apparently one of the few people in the northeast US that owns an 87 GL. I see that these cars are real popular in the midwestern states, recently took a road trip to nevada and saw a ton of gls and loyales and the like! Here in New Jersey and the surrounding states though, they appear to be quite uncommon, which makes my car unique here, and I get a lot of questions about it! I'd like to share some pictures of my 87 GL, which I bought in April for too much money. (1200) I was put on to these cars by chance actually, when I needed to find a good, cheap, reliable car for the girlfriend to use to commute to school and such. I found her a 93 Loyale spfi Fwd auto for 1,000. It was in pristine condition and only had 51,000 miles on it. This was last August. It now has 77,000 miles on it =) That car is awesome and I'll share some pictures of it at a later time. To continue though, I liked that car so damn much, I had to get one of my own and wound up finding the 87 GL 5speed (<3) dual range 4wd (also <3) It sat for years, was barely used. She currently has 55,000 miles from driving across the country and back, but had 42,000 miles when I got her back in April. I've had to do the front wheel bearings on the car, swap in a new axle, and, after the road trip, replace the water pump thus far. Plans in the future are new shocks and struts, the rear struts are absolutely destroyed, and some rust repair. I need a new grille too =( I'll shut up now and let the pictures speak for themselves though. Thank you for reading!

I always thought when the needle hits the red line on the tach, that *that's* when to shift! Silly me.

Figured I'd post pictures up for reference if anybody searches for water pump replacement. I'd have liked to have found some myself before I started but I gave up searching and just hopped into it. Quite an experience, that. Regardless, have at it! Removed the radiator, a/c condenser (thankfully my AC had no charge! Convenient!), fans, alternator, power steering reservoir, AC compressor, air filter housing, pulled belt tensioner, broke off my timing belt cover on the driver's side because pulling the crank pulley seemed like a real, real p.i.t.a. Probably pulled more that I'm forgetting and I'm sure because I've got no experience doing this, that I took some unnecessary steps, but live and learn. (just to show general chaos =) )

The 93 loyale we are the SECOND OWNER of! Not too surprising considering it only had 51,000 miles on it last year. The guy that had it averaged about 3,000 miles a year hahaha. My 87 GL had even less! 42,000. It looks like it sat for years as there's no mileage change for awhile. Good find!

Got all that for $50 at my local pick N pull. Apparently this is a very unpopular car in the northeast and the ones sitting in junk yards are all basically unmolested, and taking up space so I get parts off them real cheap! Anybody driving through Pennsylvania should stop in a few junkyards in Holidaysburg and grab some spare parts

Good point, didn't think of that. You're absolutely right too, I guess no matter where the needle sits on the gauge is fine, so long as it's not real close to red, and so long as it's consistent. That way if you always run 1/4 and one hot day you're creeping up to 3/4 you know that your car is running a bit warmer than it should be. These dials and measurement devices in our dashboards should be re-named Ballpark Estimations of Engine & Vehicle Information.

This is the coolest argument I have ever read online.

rust is very correct on that too, the g/f has a double row rad and it runs at 1/4 all the time. I have never seen it go past 1/4. I have an 87 GL with a single row rad. and it runs at 1/2 all the time. The Loyale with the double rad. takes longer to warm up, too. The GL warms up pretty quick.

Grind it till ya find it haha obviously jk.

Miles, you have any AOSM videos that detail that job?

Thanks for the responses lol, I tell you what, all in all these are magnificent cars to own, but when they do require what little maintenance they just might come to require over time, it is not good to not have the money to fix it haha. This tapping sucks, this car was perfect for the longest time. So low milage too! But thanks for easing my nerves about anything particularly bad occurring that the CEL might have been warning. I'll just electrical tape fix it for now Really, really keeping my fingers crossed that when I get the oil pump and gaskets/seals replaced, that cures the tick. Oh and Mr. Fox, I've been checking out the art of subaru maintenance videos. They are awesome, props to you for taking your own time to produce them. Very, very helpful stuff.

Thank you Dr. Will see what sort of fun the car throws at me next! Just got first snowfall and the thermostat temperature control gear got stuck. Driving around in ice and snow shivering, wiping ice off the inside of the windshield from the condensation in my breath. WAS AWESOME!

Hi all, I'm sure you guys noticed me running around the boards feeding my brain with as much info about the tod as possible lol, still haven't gotten the oil pump changed out yet, and it's been about 3 k of ticking driving now and the check engine light started coming on intermittently, so I looked up how to pull the codes and I've got; in regular mode (no jumpers connected) ign on eng off code 34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit and that's it. in the mode with the white jumpers connected (stored codes) I've got 34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit 11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit My amateur guess is that the engine is just generally running kinda shi**y through this t.o.d. thing and it's starting to upset some sensors (maybe mixture is bad, real rich possible *shrugs*) but that's just my amateur guess which is why I'm posting up here! I'm wondering what the community thinks is going on here, and also, I'm curious about codes 11 and 13, they are the same. Are they for specific cylinders? Thanks much! Keeping my fingers crossed Old Ben makes it through this ordeal until we can get him fixed proper!

does it go away if you apply the brakes?

I read somewhere in my haynes manual there is a way to adjust the clearance of the vehicle at all four corners. I think it's adjustable, just not sure how to do it. Others can correct me if I'm wrong.

Or the tri-state area in general? I have some extensive work needs to be done that's out of my scope and would like to go to a mechanic that knows these engines, rather than any of the local mechanics I know who are good, granted, but not with boxer engines where they are usually stumped and pissed off by my car haha. Anything around nyc, philly, anywhere in jersey? I'd even go to central PA to get good work done =\

Checked my oil this morning = ) It's low.