naru

It is simply called a PCV connector. Looks to be still available new. http://www.cheapestfactoryparts.com/oe-subaru/427337050 I would cap all the open hoses before driving.

Could be the neutral safety switch too. Try starting in N instead of P.

Engine only needs to crank,not run, in order to use a timing light. If the timing is in the ballpark,you can get it close enough to start by adjusting timing thru its range while a buddy tries to start the car. Most 78s have point type distys. I would check thier condition and adjustment if so equipped. 78 Electronic distys have external ignition control units. Only 10 volts at the coil is problematic. Check the voltage going in/out of the ignition switch/fusible links/fuses key on/off.This will isolate the high resistance connection. It would be well worth pulling and drying the spark plugs w/a torch(stove works too) after so many unsucessful starting attempts.

A conductive epoxy like Permatex 21351 is probably a better solution.

Probably not the switch. More like a backup bulb or socket shorted to ground.Could be the wire from the switch to the bulbs too.

http://www.macsw.org/imis15/Images/MACS_Docs/2012_03msrqz.pdf See page 4

If there is no pulsating ground at coil -(use a test light),then the MODULE is bad ,not the computer or anything else. Module is best tested in situ.

No ignition amp or "cannister" on an 86 MPFI. Coil should have 12 volts on coil negative. If a test light lights up on coil -,but does not pulse w/engine cranking,the ignition module is bad.

Probably fuel pump or clogging in tank filter sock. Check the pressure.

Unscrew the outer tie rod end to replace ihe inner bellows.There is no other way. Don`t mess around w/the inner tie rod.You would need to remove the boot first anyway.

90625 0018 & 90625 0020. Inner and outer

I`ve used the AIRTEX/WELLS 5C1017 for a while.

+1 A good whack w/a big sledge.

You could just ignore it for now. It takes a long time for the tie rod end to develop play from entrapped dirt. I have had a ripped tie rod end boot on my truck for years,but,I`m not replacing anything until it actually becomes loose.

It won`t come apart because it is a tapered fit. Puller is best,but,hitting the steering arm w/a really BFH works everytime.Use a big one and hit it hard. Don`t hit the tie rod end. Avoid using a pickle fork,if possible.They often rip the boot.

Less than stock. It is more about avoiding detonation than air/fuel ratios. How are you monitoring the knock sensor? There is a reason turbo cars come w/lower compression. You should run the highest octane you can get. I expect it will run fine until the meltdown.

Fix the EGR. http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/05/dont-block-or-remove-the-egr-valve-its-saving-you-money/

I think it is the blue/red.

If the fuse only has power on one side.it is BLOWN!

The one in your picture.

That looks like it.

Inspect the spark plugs and/or remove plug wires one at a time to find the dead cylinder.

It is a little fancier than a plain old relay. It needs to see ignition pulses from coil -. Make sure all the coil wires are connected.

Got power on both sides of fuse 12? If so,I suspect the diode is open or poorly connected. Presuming the fuse is OK,you could run a new wire w/an inline diode between fuse 12 and ignition relay G/W to bypass the existing faulty circuit.

You are wrong on several points. The ignition coil is not continuously powered.Power is switched by the ignition switch. The ignition relay is not powered by the ECM.It is the other way around. Power from fuse 12 flows to pin 38 and also thru the diode to the ignition relay coil and pin 28.