naru

Early electronic ignition cars like yours feed power to the coil in run position thru a resistor. Power to the module does not go thru the resistor If you hotwire the coil module power WILL have to go thru the resistor(may not work) I`m not sure where it is located on your car(usually on the firewall) It will look someting like thishttp://www.autozone.com/1/products/55586-ballast-resistor-duralast-al795.html After seeing the photo,I do not think that is the problem. My info shows the yellow module wire connected to coil -,not +. Also shows a black/red on coil + Resistor has a black/red and a black/white.The black/white side feeds power to the module.Black/red side feeds coil positive. "What`s this" is a noise supression capacitor.

Neither one is there for warm up drivability. In fact,they are both disabled until the car warms up. Purge solenoid is there to control evaporative emissions. It merely purges the charcoal cannister of adsorbed gasoline at the appropiate time so it can adsorb more later. Nothing to lose from deleting it(except more evaporative emissions). I`d keep the EGR though. If you do delete them,plug the lines rather than connecting them w/a straight fitting or else you will be purging and EGRing all the time.

I think the size of the bleed orfice varies too.

Brats do not have EGR solenoids even if they are equipped w/engine computers. It is not possible to have an EGR code on a Brat. The light is a service reminder,as mentioned.

The box is the ignition module, It intermittently grounds the coil w/it sees pulses from the pickup coil. There is a ballast resistor between the coil and the module. If you are jumping power to coil + because the normal power source is dead,the module w/only be fed power thru the resistor and will not get a full 12 volts. Got any voltage at the module w/or w/o the jumper? 2 pins should have power,key on engine off. 1 of them should have steady power w/engine cranking,the other should pulse. I would make sure the ballast resistor is not open and the ignition switch both receives and sends power.(check for a melted plug) Also make sure there is no voltage between the body ground and battery -.(key on-bad ground if there is).

Parts book diagram is not very clear. Lock washer is outboard,washer is inboard of that.

2wd outboard washer is 5123 00161 lock washer is 7232 37000

That is a pretty thin casting. I could see an overtorqued plug cracking it. How much torque did he use?What is the spec? Intact threads have nothing to do with it. If they HAD striped,chunk would not have broken off. I suppose you could interpet the thin casting as a manufacturers defect,.but,I`d bet all similar trannys are the same.

Check for spark next time it quits. Kinda sounds like the carb might be flooding though. Check the fuel level in the carb sight glass(might need a mirror) Fuel level should be in the middle.

Put a temporary jumper between coil + and battery positive and try again. You will have to remove it to stop the engine.

SPFI spec is 20-24 @idle. Only MPFI is higher. You are golden.

EGR valve is not the problem,burning oil IS. Could be piston/rings/cylinder/valve guides. The darkened head gasket fire rings look suspicous too. Deleting the EGR is a dumb idea. That will throw off the ignition timing(it will ping at cruise). It will also decrease MPGs slightly because of increased engine pumping losses.

I doubt the EGR sensor is the only difference. I expect the fuel and spark maps are slightly different in order to meet the tighter california emission standards. Maybe EGR flow too.

83 for 4wd automatics. 84 for all calipers are different The difference between a pick up and a utility is the year. in this listing. Up to 80 they call them utes,after that Brat/Brumby or pickup. 4wd refers to cars

You will not hear an unmetered air leak. Unlikely you would hear a small vacuum leak either. All those hardened PCV hoses need to seal too. Could be the cause of no idle.

Beside the EGR valve on the manifold. My info says one black wire,one white/red

Reference pulse is just the ignition pulses from coil -. They go to the ECU thru a grey shielded wire.(BY wire in the red 9 pin check connector #1) Kind of a cam position signal. Ea-81T dizzy is Hall effect ,not optoelectronic. Code 11 is normal w/engine stopped. Code 12 means the ECU never saw voltage from the starter solenoid. Solenoid connects to ECU thru the BW wire in check connector #1. Maybe a harness problem. I cannot remember if this one is normal w/stopped engine. Check the intake boot and associated plumbing for unmetered air leaks.

36 psi NOT running About 29 at idle 55 is too much.

15 amps is too small. The solenoid will draw more than that. Go 30 or 40. The fuse should be between the battery and the relay,not between the relay and the solenoid.

The ECMs do not power the injectors.. Check your fusible links.

I don`t think 81 BRATS have a ballast resistor. Even if they did,coil voltage would be 12 volts regardless of key position(except off) with the engine stopped. (there is no current flowing thru the coil w/engine stopped and therefore NO voltage drop across the resistor) I think the engine would not stop because a faulty voltage regulator is backfeeding voltage to the coil w/the key off. Test the switch by seeing if it passes/doesn`t pass voltage/current as required. Spark colour is irrelevant. Orange just means there is some sodium present. Test spark strength by seeing how long of a gap it will jump.

You did not look very hard. Try 31232 ga040 on ebay(plenty there) or at the dealer.

I`ve used an anaerobic sealant on freeze plugs I have replaced.

Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me.

BOTH statements cannot be true. It all depends where you put the leads. Ground should only light up if the other end is hooked to power.