naru

Tester does not draw enough current.

She is not that good if she can`t fix headlights.Simple stuff. You are not getting a ground connection on the switched low beam ground wire.RB,I think. It will be one of the switches,a bad connector or a broken wire. Put a voltmeter between RB at the lamp and the other end on both sides of each connector/switch.(lowbeam on) Work from the lamp back thru the connectors/switches toward the ground. When voltage appears,you have gone past the faulty part. Make sure the lamps do not have a metal case that grounds out.

Check connector IV to battery positive should only be injector resistance,not megaohms. There is a bad connection at one of the wiring harness plugs/bad fusible link/poor connection from battery positive to the fusible link etc. Variable ground resistance suggests a poor connection at a plug too, Like I mentioned previously,body ground is above the fusebox(remove it) A poor connection to the fusible link box could give cranking problems.

You have a bad ground. Tighten/clean the connection or run a new wire. Check the ground on Check Connector I as well. Measure resistance between body ground and battery negative too. I`m not sure how you are taking the second measurement. You cannot measure resistance between the injectors and ground(ecu semiconductors are in the way) Maybe more than one problem. The ECU should not respond to taps. The fuel pump driver transistor has failed in mine.I use alternate power.

Upgrade Huh? Try here http://www.mrinjectorparts.com/store/c9/Top_Feed_Kits.html

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1992/subaru/loyale/air_intake/egr_vacuum_solenoid.html

These work OK http://buy1.snapon.com/products/diagnostics/dis.asp Voltage will only go high enough to jump the gap regardless of which coil you use though.

Check connector IV is brown,not blue. It is tucked under the reinforcement for the RH strut tower. FP relay is under the passenger seat. Injectors ground thru the ECU. Don`t remember for sure if the ECU uses the intake manifold ground for this purpose or the one under(above actually) the fuse box.

Your shop is on drugs. That is a LOT of crud for any year. The tank needs to be dropped and pressure washed. Wishful thinking doesn`t cut it.

Nah,That is not the correct reason at all. Automatics need a bigger battery because the starter needs to turn the torque converter et all. Same reason the automatics use a gear reduction starter and the manuals don`t.

The Carter crosses over to the correct Subaru#,42021GA242. I think the Airtex is correct too,despite them stating it is only 3 psi. I think the 3 psi is an error.I`d chose an airtex over a carter,but,the stated 3 psi would scare me too. The airtex crosses over to the correct one as well.

No,those are for carbs. Then again,it is what they list,but,they also say maximium psi = 3 psi (not enough) It looks correct(not like a carb one that has a different part #) I think there is a problem with thier application listing or information,

Hi Tweety I would not use it and I would not expect any benefit. 1-Yes,quite possibly.Masters blaster 2 has a lower primary resistance than stock and will make the module flow more current than designed. Master blaster primary is .7 ohms,average Hitachi stock value is 1.12 ohms. That is a 60% increase compared to the master blaster.Pretty substantial. DC resistance is not the whole story. Inductive effects come into play in the pulsating voltage enviroment the coil lives in. I expect the master blaster will have lower inductance Higher secondary voltage means the module w/see higher reverse voltage spikes as well. I think Subaru would have gladly used less copper in thier coils if they thought it would work. Then again,all you have to lose is a module. 2-Good question.Increasing the gap will increse the secondary voltage developed/required. 3-Obvious signs are no spark. I`ve seen Hitachi modules fail such that the car still runs but poorly. One case I know for sure was because of high reverse voltage spikes caused by a very loose plug wire. Diode test function of a multimeter can provide a simple test for opens. Best to have a known good one to compare to. Dwell meter reading on a running/cranking engine is a decent test of module functionality. I`ve heard of bench testing them by triggering them w/the pulsating magnetic field of a soldering iron,but,I have not tried that yet.

Believe whatever you want. I`ve seen enough MOOG parts to know what they do. There was a good example on the old gen forum a while back. Someone had 2 completely different looking ea82 MOOG balljoints.One w/a castle nut and cotter pin,the other merely a nylock. Someone else was able to ID the offshore manufacturer of both. Like I said,not always a bad thing. I`ve purchased genuine BMW front end parts cheaper from MOOG than from BMW. Moog "problem solver" parts are a seperate joke. Ask your counterman what problem they solve. He won1 be able to tell you.

ROFL You certainly DO NOT ALWAYS get WHAT YOU PAY FOR. You guys that think MOOG is something special make me laugh out loud. Anybody who has been around for a while knows that MOOG buys the cheapest parts from they do not care where and reboxes them. Not always a bad thing, I avoid MOOG,nevertheless.

Model? Year? Sufficient,as long as you are measuring w/the pump plugged in. I suspect you are not. It is not the pumps(not all 3)

Probably. Take the cap off and check for side play in the shaft. Anything more than barely detectible is too much, Common problem.

OP said transfer case ,not differential. The tranfer case is supposed to be filled w/ATF.

Any chance you have ea-82 struts? I do not see ea-81 struts in the Sachs catalog. What is the part #? Just a thought.

Subaru has used both types. In 1984,only GLs had magnetic fuel gauges.Standards and DLs had themal ones.

No electric gauge will indicate reliably w/o power. The difference in response times is due to gauge design The thermal types w/a bimetalic strip and a heating element are slow to respond and will go to zero w/o power. The magnetic dual coil types respond instantly. They have an internal damper(shock absorber) to prevent the needle from bouncing on corners etc, The damper will SOMETIMES cause the gauge to remain at its last powered position. Gauges do not have brakes!

Start by noticing wether the headlights go dim w/you try to start. If they do not,then you do not have a battery/cable/connection problem,but a solenoid contact/neutral safety switch/ignition switch problem.

$732 is TOTALLY OUTRAGOUS! Especially since your car only has 2 struts(front only). Flat rate to replace them is 1-1.5 hours each At $100/hour shop rate that is $200-300. More to the point. Struts do not have anything to do w/your lowered ride height. They do not support the weight of the car.Springs support the front.Torsion bars support the rear. I would find another shop. This one sounds terrible.

Page 16 http://www.rhinoman.org/Suzukistuff/info/tech/weber_manual.pdf

Your faith in others is admirable,but,misplaced. They WERE trying to scam you. Since they are unable/unwilling to name the faulty part,your thesis is correct. "Are they just giving me the run around trying to convince me to pay them to swap out some elusive suspension component" The whole point of the free "alignment check" is to sell front end work.(needed or not) They have to pay the rent somehow. Your story reminds me of the time I was sitting in the waiting room of a local tire shop while a friend had some tires swapped. From where I was sitting I could overhear the manager phoning customers w/the bad news. 1st call- Your car needs balljoints.It is unsafe. 2nd call-Your car needs balljoints.It is unsafe. 3rd call-Your car needs balljoints.It is unsafe. Not a chance in Hades that he had 3 in a row that needed balljoints.