naru

Check for spark when it dies and will not start.

11 volts is not very good. Here is a diagram http://subarujusty.proboards.com/thread/3632/1990-ignition-problem-solved Check fuse #1. It is probably the ignition control unit though.

There is a decent one here http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx

The broken hose actuates the air control valve when vacuum is allowed thru by the associated thermovalve.at high temps. I think you can have a non operating air control valve without great ill effect. You will want to plug the vacuum line or else you will have a vacuum leak w/the thermovalve opens.

The higher the fuel is the less of a hill it has to climb to exit the discharge. Like the difference between a short straw on a full milkshake and a long one pulling from the bottom. It takes less pressure difference between the venturi and the bowl to push the same amount of fuel when the float level is higher. Not to mention,the air holes in the emulsion tubes will be submerged more deeply. That is why the float level is so important

Raising the float level DOES richen the mixture. The same amount of venturi vacuum draws more fuel.

You could cap the output port and be done with it or you could look for the upstream problem. Not all that hard. It will be a bad diaphram in the 2 port vacuum switching valve or the 5 port air contol valve. If neither of those then it might be that the inline restriction orfices are miising from one of the 2 hoses between the air control valve and the carb. Both should have .022 inch.restrictors.Little brass jobbies I think.Easy to miss when replacing vacuum lines. Try blowing thru those lines. You could possibly make some or snag an original line w/the orfice from the wreckers. Another possibility is that all of the above are OK,but,the carb is marginaly lean already and the control valve leaning it out a little more by opening the air bleeds at high underhood temps pushes it over the edge. Carb cleaning or general vacuum leak reapair required. My money is on missing orifices.

Did you pour some water on it as a diagnostic experiment? It is unlikely the sensor itself is faulty.

Got spark?

The numbers come from the build date. 58 = the 8th month of 85 59=the 9th month of 85 5X=the 10th 5Y=the 11th 5Z= the 12th

Don`t be looking down the carb directly w/the engine running like in the video. You are liable to get a BACKFIRE in the FACE. Use a mirror if you need to. You can check the accelerator pump w/the engine stopped.

You should get a check engine light w/the O2 unplugged. Does your check engine light work? Pehaps the ECU is ignoring the O2 sensor because the CTS is telling it the engine is still cold.

I`d check the fuel pressure while driving despite the recent pump and filter. Fuel tank screen could be a problem.Did you replace it? Most pumps have no warranty if you did not.

Not in my experience.

+1 This sounds like the classic weak fuel pump/clogged filter scenario. It always shows first on long steep high throttle hills. You may need to monitor fuel pressure as you drive up the steep hill to see a problem. Probably OK at idle. I`d bet plenty of money this is your problem. A vacuum gauge would show if the cat is restricted enough to cause problems on the hill.

Having both codes at the same time suggests a wiring harness problem. P0134 could be a fouled sensor. You should be aware tat O2 sensors foul externally too. I had a mercedes that would foul any brand of sensor in a month from an oil leak that wicked along the wiring harness until it reached the O2 sensor. Sensor brand is irrelevant.IME.

Forget about the fuel pump,filters and lines. You are barking up the wrong tree with those. Your car has a carburetor. It was full of fuel when you parked and it was still full after sitting. You could UNPLUG the fuel pump and the car would still run normally for a short time. EA-81 carbs have a fuel level sight glass. As long as fuel is in the middle,you can forget about fuel delivery(to the carb) issues and move on. I have experienced the same symptoms as you. It was related to the 2 port underhood temperature switch mounted on a standoff on the intake near the EGR. I could cure it by pouring a little water over the sensor when leaving. Heat soak opens the valve while you are parked. There is probably a vacuum leak or missing inline orfice upstream. A quick and dirty "fix" would be to block the vacuum line between the valve and the intake. I think a lot of hitachi carb problems are really emission component problems. Weber swaps eliminate them because they delete many emission components. Keep us posted.

The passageways in the casting that feed the tubes.

Some nit picking. Subaru used carter weber 1bbls 82-84. http://mastertechmag.com/pdf/1988/10oct/198810IS_CarterWeber1Barrel.pdf 49 state 2wds that had one WERE feedback controlled and had an O2 sensor. 4wds did not. My 82 4wd did not. I liked the carter weber more than my hitachi equipped car. The carter weber has more throttle/venturi area at LOW rpms because the hitachi secondary would still be closed. Sorta the same effect you get w/swapping to a 32/36 w/a mechanical(non vacuum) secondary.

You are likely referring to a weber 38/38. Too big IMO.Especially since it is synchronous. Most folks use a progressive 32/36 from the DGV or DFV series. It is not going to be a powerhouse regardless of the carb. Most of the brat stuff is compatible.

If it is #76 it is. Make sure there is not a small piece of dirt inside.It does not take much. I understand the confusion.Subaru does not call them emulsion tubes. Check #23 as well Might as well check the secondaries too.74.75

+1 I would do this.

17 is for the starter switch. Either the ECU never sees 12V from the starter solenoid or it sees 12V all the time. I am not sure why 86s have 3 different codes for the starter switch. Not sure about 86s,but,my 84 will show code 11 anytime the engine is stopped.

I suspect the battery. I would load test it during a no start episode.

He said the carb fuel level is in the middle of the sight glass. Why waste time doing a pressure and flow test? Circulating the fuel does not keep it cool. Quite the opposite.It warms the fuel. That is why some modern cars use a returnless system to reduce evaporative emissions