naru

You are probably close. Put a timing light on it.It does not need to run. If you do not have a light,move the disty around while someone else cranks it over.

Clean the spark plugs. Quite likely they are fuel fouled from the faulty rotor,

You need one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-1600-1800-Service-manual-Engine-And-Body-1984-/261828895248?hash=item3cf637e210&vxp=mtr#ht_361wt_1153 I`m sure the ND was cheaper to source.

There is a good illustration of one in the 1984 section of the ea-81 parts manual here: http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=31830&p=rock

Ummm... EA-81Ts should have a Hitachi 4 wire Hall effect ignition module.No pickup coil. It sounds like the distributor was replaced w/one from a carbed car. I think the turbo coil is a little lower resistance than the carbed one. Maybe the ND disty could not handle the turbo coil.

All the plugs fouling evenly? Compression test is always a good idea. I would: Make sure the spark is strong enough to jump a lenghty gap Pull or back probe(You can use the check connrector plugs under the dash instead) the ECU plug and recheck the CTS resistance there, Ditto for the airflow signal-flap open,flap closed Ensure the 1psi boost switch on the rh strut tower is not shorted, Make sure the injectors hold presurre after shutdown. Check for unmetered air leaks in the intake tract even though the motor seems rich.

The little one.

They are different,but,they bolt on. I think I had to egg out a mounting hole on the downpipe, You will probably want to hook up the coolant lines.If not,the turbo will be strictly oil cooled like the original

No,that does not sound correct. Subaru pumps are mounted close to the tank on a downhill grade so there is not a long suction line to develop vapour lock. More to the point Is the carb full of fuel?-look in the sight glass-fuel should be mid level If so,you can rule out vapour lock and other fuel supply issues. It sounds to me like a main jet is partialy blocked or there is an vacuum leak in the associated air bleed system. Hi revs open the power valve and secondary barrel. Any difference if you unplug and block the EGR vacuum line? Any difference if you block vacuum input to the thermal valves? Run OK until the choke opens?

Fuel pressure is too high.

I think you might be right. I would check the pressure and check for a blocked return line before condemning the regulator though. Check the CTS too. TPS while you are at it.

It will not idle w/o power to the anti diesel solenoid. It should click when power is applied.

I used an Airtex E8312 https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=60014&cc=1268355&jnid=542&jpid=1 Been working well for a few years. You need 42 psi for a turbo car.

Picture is worth a thousand words Have a look at page 2-7 of the ea82 manual here: http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx

Sounds like the ignition switch,but,load test the battery anyway. Do an offical high amp load test. My old crappy battery would refuse to start the car after self-discharging(they all do) during a week or so of no driving. Inspect the switch connector for overheating. When the car is not starting: 1 Check voltage going into the switch w/key turned to start.(big pink wire?) 2 Check voltage btween the switch input and the outputs w/key turned #2 should be near zero,Any voltage represents voltage lost across the bad switch contacts

Maybe this?http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/121946-correct-pressure-control-solenoid-valve-operation/ Or maybe one of these turbo control valves?http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=1242 1997 NZ subarus are not OBD2

Pretty good chance.if your test light stays lit continously when on coil negative while cranking and the harness is good. Black wire to coil +. Yellow wires and the shielded one to coil -.

I think the diode is there to prevent reverse voltage spikes from reaching the ECU and other components. In the diagram I looked at,it is not between the fuse and the relay though. A 50 volt 1 amp diode should be more than enough.

I suspect your shop misinterpeted the code.It would be nice to know the code #. I`m thinking it was 33 which some internet sources say is for the VSS 83-85.My 84 factory shop manual does NOT agree. It actually refers to the ECU AT selection pin being ungrounded because of a bad wiring harness or ECU fault. Is your car automatic? Or maybe it was code 22 which IS for the VSS for 84s,but,not 83s. On 83s code 22 is comnpletely normal w/the engine not running. I do not think your car has a VSS. If it did,it would be near the speedometer.

Only engines w/camshaft(s) mounted in the head use timing belts.Even some of them use chains instead. Engines w/cams in the block(like yours) use chains or gears(best). You have probably heard of a small block Chevy 327-350 etc.No timing belts on those. DLs being a lower trim level only had the one mirror.GLs had both.

I would check the choke pull off adjustment. Sounds like it may be opening the choke a little too much as the engine cranks. You might try pumping the throttle a time or two before starting to enrich the mixture w/the accelerator pump in extra cold weather.

O2 sensors can fail from fouling.Either the part inside the pipe or the external part. The external part needs to see atmospheric air. I had a mercedes that would foul any O2 sensor in a month or so. Problem was a leaky cam sensor that allowed oil to travel along the wiring harness a truly amazing distance until it reached the O2 sensor. Mud could do it too I would not use any silcone spray near one either. I have not noticed any O2 sensor problems related to the country of origin.

There are copper nickel alloy brake lines that are DOT approved. Austin mini I worked on last year came from the factory w/them.

Likely only the water temperature sensor fault preventing it from starting. Check the connector for corrosion and test the sensor w/an ohmmeter.

Test them by measuring thier resistance as you move the floats up and down. 0-50 ohms I think.Check the specs. I have had good luck cleaning the resistance coils on senders carefully w/an eraser.