naru

A few things come to mind. 1 Your coil is incompatible w/your distributor. Some coils will draw more current than the ignition module can handle 2 Open plug/coil high tension wires or a very bad cap/rotor. This can send high voltage back into the module,destroying it. Often,the car will run normally up to that point. I`ve seen this failure mode several times. 3 Alternator overcharging? Voltage too high? 4 Check the ground wires as suggested.

Start by making sure the coil remains powered up in the run position.

The point in having freeze plugs in this location is that they work. Several folks who froze thier motors have reported no problems after replacing the popped plugs.

Not all of them. If the ones in the heads leak,there will be plenty of coolant/oil mixing.

Make sure there is power at the coil.

Does a test light hooked between battery negative and coil negative flash w/cranking? Light up at all?

I would check the main dash ground located under the fusebox. A voltmeter hooked between here and battery negative should show close to 0.0 volts even w/the blower fan and headlights on. (and while moving)

Replace it. I find that replacing even ones that look good makes a noticible perfomance improvement. Small price to pay,I say. Replace the rotor too.

Check the choke and fast(cold) idle adjustments. Starting w/half throttle suggests the throttle is not open far enough. What happens if you pump the throttle twice(to enrich the mixture) before starting? BTW,you need to fully depress the throtttle once before starting for the fast idle to work.

Sure,for testing. You will need to remove it to make the engine stop,

86 brat does not have one.

Fuel pressure gauges are like $20. I would not replace the pump w/o checking. I`m thinking leaky injector more than pump, You can get some idea of the pump strength by dissconnecting the return line from the regulator and measuring the flow volume. Not the 100% correct way to do it(you should measure the 36 psi flow rate) but,if the return volume is very low w/the engine off you know you have a problem. I was shocked to find I had almost no return flow. Pressure was 36 psi just like it was supposed to be, Car ran well.

It could. Mine ran well w/a weak pump but had starting difficulties. Don`t expect smoke from minor flooding. I still think a plug or 2 is fouling. Not always easy to detect, The symptoms fit rather well. There are not a lot of other variables.

Does it have proper fuel pressure? Does it hold fuel pressure?

Sounds like it fouls a spark plug w/fuel(leaky injector)l or coolant on a hot restart. i would see if it holds fuel pressure after. shutdown. CTS is worth checking too.

Once again,from YOUR calculator: Enter 1 ohm and 1 volt and you get 1 amp and 1 watt Enter 1 ohm and 2 volts and you get 2 amps and 4 watts The amperage goes UP with increasing voltage not down. The wattage used does NOT stay the same with varying voltages.

What about the calculator? How come you have nothing to say about that? Is YOUR calculator confused too?

Somebody needs to straighten you out and prevent you from spreading misinformation. Once again,YOUR own calculator proves YOU wrong. According to you,I`m wrong,Ohms Law is wrong,YOUR calculator is wrong,and the whole rest of the world is wrong. You are one stupid F#@%.

The silence is deafening. Cat got your tongue? Or did it fall off from flapping too much the other day? Maybe when the rude thing grows back,you will be good enough to remind us who knows what they are talking about and who is confused and unable to admit he is wrong (it is not a winning strategy in life,you know) even though he has been bashed over the head with the truth multiple times.

You sure are stubborn. The whole point is that the wattage drawn is NOT constant. Maybe you will believe the calculator that YOU provided in YOUR link. Enter 1 ohm and 1 volt and you get 1 amp and 1 watt Enter 1 ohm and 2 volts and you get 2 amps and 4 watts The amperage goes UP with increasing voltage not down. The wattage used does NOT stay the same with varying voltages. Get it yet?

From YOUR link: Amps calculations The current I in amps (A) is equal to the voltage V in volts (V) divided by the resistance R in ohms (Ω):

That is it.Run away and hide. Instead of making yourself look dumber with every post by blathering on a bunch of nonsense why don`t you get your meters out and give it a try? I have 100s of times. Are you that afraid of proving yourself wrong? How much current do YOU think flows thru a 1 ohm resistor with 1 volt applied? With 2 volts applied? By your twisted constant wattage logic,a 1 watt load with 0.000000000000001 volts applied would have a current of 1,000,000,000,000,000 amps flowing thru it. I would think the self evident fallacy of this statement would be apparent even to you. You need to work on your reading comprehension and logic.

Light bulbs sometimes have a shorter life when operated at lower than rated voltage because thier filaments take longer to heat up to thier designed temperature/resistance values. The R in Ohms law is lower resulting in a larger current than designed for a longer time despite the lower voltage.

I`ll try to make it simple for you. From Ohms Law I=V/R so ANY 1 ohm resistor with 1 volt applied will have a current of 1 amp passing thru it. Double the voltage to 2 volts and 2 amps now pass thru the resistor. In the first instance the resistor dissapates 1 watt. In the second instance the resistor dissapates 4 watts.

This is just plain WRONG. It is a trivial matter to prove it with a couple of meters and a variable power supply. Why are you afraid to try it?