naru

Wattage does not stay constant in a simple DC circuit like a solenoid with changing voltage. Dual voltage motors are wired differently for each voltage. Single-phase motors often have dual-voltage ratings of 115 volts and 230 volts. To obtain these ratings the running winding consists of two sections. Each section of the winding is rated at 115 volts. One section of the running winding is generally marked T and T and the other section is marked T and T If the motor is to be operated on 230 volts, the two 115-volt windings are connected in series across the 230-volt line. If the motor is to be operated on 115 volts, then the two 115-volt windings are connected in parallel across the 115-volt line. Do you think you can ignore Ohms Law? This is basic high school(elementry school?) stuff. Jeesh! I do not know how you work on electrical stuff with such a basic misunderstanding. Stay away from my car! Personal ignorance is excusable.Spreading ignorance is NOT.

Put an ohmmeter accross the starter contacts of your used ignition switch before going thru all the trouble of swapping it. Plug it into the harness and try it before doing the full install too. Check the starter solenoid contacts and plunger as well. I did not mean to suggest that they may not be a problem,only that they are not a 100% sure-fire fix.

If it ran a bit,you do not need to worry about being 180 degrees out.

This is not correct either. I`ve replaced contacts only to have the problem remain. The solenoid has 2 sets of windings.Pull in and hold. Both are energized intially. Once the solenoid pulls in (the click) the stronger pull in winding is deenergized. If not enough current is available because of high resistance in the ignition switch(or elsewhere) the weaker hold in winding is unable to hold the contacts closed.

Man o man.You still have this completely BACKWARDS. When you raise the voltage,more amps flow thru the circuit,NOT LESS! That is why it works. (more current = stronger magnetic field in the solenoid and more positive connection of the contacts) OHMs Law my friend. V=IR or I=V/R If the voltage increases the current MUST increase.

It is not going to be all that accurate setting it this way anyhow,but,since you want it to fire at 8 btdc,use 8 rather than 0. Either will be OK to get it started.

I do not understand your question. If the engine is cranking #1 piston will be in ALL possible positions. The rotor needs to point at the contact in the cap for #1 w/the timing mark lined up. Having it point at the cylinder is meaningless. You need to remember that the motor turns twice for every 1 turn of the disty,so you can have everything lined up properly and still be 180 degrees out at the distributor.Engine needs to be on the compression stroke. Did you have the disty out? You might try swapping the wires 180 degees on the cap. Better yet,put a timing light on it.

Pull the spark plugs to see if they are fuel fouled from unsucessful starting attempts. Once dry,loosen the distributer clamp a little so that you can adjust timing while a buddy tries to start the car. Slowly move the distributor thru its range of adjustment while buddy cranks the motor. You will hit the sweet spot as long as the timing is not wildly off. Or,use a timing light. The engine does not need to be running,only cranking. Check the plugs for fouling,regardless.

Check the crankshaft endplay. What happens if you reinstall the original MC?

What #s are stamped into it? Vacuum cans can be replaced,but,they are pricey from Subaru and hard to find otherwise.

12 volts w/the pump hooked up? Bad connections can give 12V w/no load,but,much less loaded. Check the ground if all else fails.

I`ve got a set of 195/70R-13s and 205/70R-13s.but,they are getting hard to find.

You are right,that is a really BIG "IF". It gets to the crux of the issue. Nobody can explain how it MIGHT work without invoking majic. Your 400 watts of offroad lights would load the engine to the tune of 1 HP not 0.5 HP since your alternator is only about 50% efficient. Additionally,your 80 HP engine only makes 80 HP at full throttle on a good day. Probably something more like 25 or 30 HP at a normal cruise. Thats makes the added load around 3-4%. Whether this is negligible or not depends on your definition of negligible.

Unbelievably,parts book shows 28 different numbers fot XTs 85-89. 14 for Canada,14 for the US 86s,87s and 87 1/2s all different 86 autos were different FWD and 4WD,86 manuals are the same for both My brain hurts from looking at all the different ones,but,87 and 87 1/2 look similar Got any part numbers?

There is no such thing as "unused electricity". The alternator does not spin for free. The more load you put on the alternator,the more gas you need to burn to spin it. Since neither the generation of electricity nor the electrolysis of water is anywhere near 100% efficient,you are losing efficiency not gaining. There is indeed a mpg cost to run offroad lights or any other electrical load.

BS pseudoscience mumbo jumbo

Yeah,right... You guys are a laugh a minute. Automotive fuel and every variation thereof has been extensively reasearched by people who actually know what they are doing. Nobody serious buys into the HHO hoax. Don`t you think manufacturers would be all over this if it worked? Nobody can demonstrate a working version under controlled conditions. Even Cheney and the oil terrorists can`t kill EVERYBODY with a fuel saving idea.

Since you have good compression and a smooth idle(no vacuum leaks),this should not be too difficult. It sounds like an ignition problem to me. Examine spark plugs,rotor and cap. Measure plug and coil wire resistance.Examine the wires carefully for signs of arcing thru the insulation. Last one I had w/similarly poor low speed performance,but,good idle and top end had 2 plug wires that would arc thru the insulation. Doubt it is the carb,but,possible. Will it run smooth in the mid-range while stationary? Check the fuel level in the carb sight glass. Make sure the accelerator pump squirts. Good luck.

NO LIGHT = NO POWER Make sure the 2nd test light lead is connected to battery negative Test light will light on coil + even if you grounded coil negative by mistake. Take that wire off coil negative. The coil should only ground thru the ignition module.

At the risk of repeating myself.... Put a test light on coil -. It should light up and pulse w/cranking. Light but no pulse = bad module No light on coil - or + = power problem No light on coil -,but,lights on coil + = bad coil It is almost impossible to prevent an EA81 dizzy from turning.

I suspect a leaky positive alternator diode in the 79. I would use the "diode check" function of a multimeter to verify. I would check the 78 alternator by bypassing the VR. Unplug the VR and jumper 12V to the F terminal in order to supply full field current. Run at low speed and check the output voltage. Slowly increase engine speed. Beware of excessively high voltages-increase speed slowly. Good luck.

Keep the windows rolled up to reduce drag. Drive like a granny..

No,that does not seem logical at all. The ECU meters fuel in proportion to airflow. Subaru did not change ECUs as part of the recall for oil cooled EA-81T turbos. My 84 EA-81T runs great w/the water cooled turbo. If you have a heavy throttle foot,you will get poor mileage. Big tires do not help either. I would check fuel pressure and flow. Note paticularly the flow rate at 42 psi w/7 psi of simulated boost on the pressure regulator. Timing OK? How do the plugs look?All the same? Got good compression?

I`m not confusing anything,my friend.

Put a test light on coil -. It should light up and pulse w/cranking. Light but no pulse = bad module No light on coil - or + = power problem No light on coil -,but,lights on coil + = bad coil