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naru

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Everything posted by naru

  1. naru
    Your 55 watt headlight is no more of constant wattage load than the starter. If you drop the applied voltage,the current will go down not up like you claim.Try it. Headlights are not a great example because thier resistance will change w/temperature and therefore w/voltage/current changes as well. That 55 watt lamp will draw a lot more than 55 watts for the first few microseconds after it is turned on before the filament heats up and increases resistance.
  2. naru
    This is nonsense. The load represented by the starter is not a constant wattage at varying voltages. Everything follows Ohms Law,V=IR If the applied voltage drops and the starter resistance remains the same,the current must drop also. Therefore the wattage (VI) drops too.
  3. naru
    With the pin removed,appyiing power will have no effect.
  4. naru
    I`ve done it on customer cars. It is not something me or any of my mechanic friends would do on thier own cars though. It is a waste of time and money. Shps often reccomend it because it is easy money,but,like any good lie,there is a kernal of truth to it. It is a 2 man operation. Have several litres of fluid already opened and ready to pour.
  5. naru
    The synthetic label is pure marketing Bullshit. ALL brake fluid is synthetic,except for that weird Citroen stuff. I would be leary of companies that label thier products in that semi-fraudulent manner. Use any DOT 3.You will not have any trouble telling when fresh fluid appears at the bleeder.
  6. naru
    Bad ground.
  7. naru
    You need to read your trouble code(s) on the ECU LED while the ECS is lit, Remove the trim panel below the steering wheel to see it..
  8. naru
    The ECS light will come on when there is a fault with one of several emission system components. It does not really monitor the exhaust.
  9. naru
    I use it in my turbo car because of its ability to tolerate high temperatures,but,I think it is a waste of money for non turbos. You would be better off using the extra cash to do more frequent conventional oil changes,IMO. Synthetic oil gets contaminated just as quickly as conventional so don`t bother w/extended change intervals.
  10. naru
    I would install a pressure gauge and confirm a leak before pulling injectors. I confirmed my leaker by installing test tubes over the injectors overnight. Confirm fuel pump operation while the gauge is hooked up. Use a bicycle pump to put 7 psi(max boost) on the fuel regulator vacuum" line to force the fuel pressure to approx.42 psi. Check the flow rate. Many of the old turbo pumps are tired.
  11. naru
    Since it runs when spoon fed,both the coil and disty are plenty good enough to operate the FPCU.Forget about them. A test light on coil - will flash w/cranking. This same flashing signal needs to appear at the appropriate FPCU terminal. A wiring problem may prevent this,Look for the flashes at the FPCU. You can hot wire the pump for testing. Check the ground too. Change/check BOTH fuel filters.
  12. naru
    Sure,but,it is easier with it installed. As long as you have spark when cranking,the distributor is OK as far as the Fuel Pump Control Unit is concerned.
  13. naru
    Hammer and punch for the win. Only hit the outer race. Use a smallish hammer and alternate the punch position 180 degrees between hits. They are actually difficult to set up in a press. Good luck.
  14. naru
    Part time 4wd dual range 5 speeds seem to all be TW75F9xxxx Turbo Part time 4wd dual range 5 speeds seem to all be TW75FCxxxx Full time 4wd dual range 5 speeds seem to all be TY75FCxxxx
  15. naru
    Quite well.Only the solenoid current goes thru the new relay. Adding a extra part that could fail still seems like the wrong way to go,IMO. Better to replace the ignition switch or replace/jumper the neutral safety switch as necessary.
  16. naru
    All of the TW75F5 transmissions were 4wd single range 5 speeds. Some were from turbos and have different axle spline counts and possibly different final drive ratios. I am unable to match the complete number.
  17. naru
    Might seal OK,but,the bent one looks too bent to use, IMO.
  18. naru
    Coolant temperature sensor is a prime suspect.
  19. naru
    Actually,it is better to put the meter across the alternator output and the case.
  20. naru
    Probably something different then. Loose pads will clunk from day 1.
  21. naru
    Most likely front brake pads w/slightly excessive fore and aft clearance. Will it clunk again right away w/going in reverse and applying the brakes briskly? If this is what it is.it is not a safety problem,just annoying.
  22. naru
    Your dealer is a total idiot.Tell them so.Demand your money back! You don`t need a special tool to read trouble codes and that is not your problem anyway. Those lights come on w/a diode goes bad in the alternator. You need a new alternator. Confirm this diagnosis yourself by putting an AC voltmeter across the battery,loading the charging circuit by turning on the headlights and heater fan and revving the motor to 2000 rpm or so. AC voltage should remain under 0.5 volts.Anything higher = bad diodes. You want to fix that ASAP. Good luck.
  23. naru
    Anything more than barely perceptible is too much. The reluctor air gap is only .020" maximum. The jumping tach is a dead give away that you need new distributor bushings or a new disty.
  24. naru
    The solenoid is normally open.so a failed or unplugged one will apply continuous manifold vacuum to the purge control valve at the blue circle.
  25. naru
    In that case,remove the cap and see how much sideplay the distributor shaft has. Should be very little.
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