naru

Sputtering on a long hill,but running well otherwise is usually a sign of fuel starvation. Try changing the fuel filter first.

Only solenoid circuit electrical faults will set the code. Even if the solenoid is stuck closed or the vacuum lines are broken or plugged code 35 will not be set. It has to be the solenoid,wiring harness or computer. Pretty safe to assume it is the solenoid,but,they are easy to test.

Only electrical faults will set the code. Usually,the coil goes open in the solenoid. Check it w/your ohmmeter.Should be close to 35 ohms. The purge control solenoid is mounted on the RH front of the engine and looks very similar to the EGR solenoid nearby. I have a spare used one if you need one. I`ll PM the details.

No and yes. Autos had vented discs for 83.Non autos did not.You need the correct calipers.

Very rare for weak pumps/plugged filters to give a poor idle on a carbed car unless the carb was drained by a higher power demand first. Sounds like it might be flooding. Dismiss fuel supply problems by checking the fuel level in the carb sight glass when trouble strikes. Is it in the middle or not? Too high? Simple stuff. 2 fuel filters on this car. Sometimes the idle stop solenoid jobby on the carb will be wonky and prevent idle,but,not higher speed running.

Nah, The timing light does not care where #1 is positioned on the cap.

Sounds like your idle switch is not closed or the test mode connectors are not connected.

Possibly a partially plugged in tank strainer or downstream fuel filter or a dirty/rusty fuel tank. Are the filters still free flowing at pump failure time? You are replacing them right? Pump warranties normally require that you replace filter and strainer and wash out the tank. Some folks claim high sulphur fuel can be a problem. I suggest dissecting a dead pump to pinpoint the failure.(worn commutators on ones I looked at).

Car moves on a cold start w/o brakes applied.

Pull the centre console.. You will see a "combination" switch that contains the NSS and back up switches. Unplug it and put your ohmmeter across the NSS.(black/white and black yellow wires IIRC) You should have 0 ohms in park. Mine was around 7 ohms sometimes.Since the solenoid resistance is so low,even 7 ohms causes too much voltage drop, New switches are around $60-70. Being a cheapskate,I cut the NSS wires off the switch and connected them w/a butt connector-very simple, Starts in any gear now,but.starts EVERY time.

Neutral safety switch on my 84 had intermittent high resistance. All my starting problems went away after jumpering it out. Test the NSS and ignition switches w/an ohmmeter if you really want to find out what is going on. In the meantime,wiggle the shifter back and forth w/trying to start.

http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx

Loose freeze plug?

I`m guessing bad replacement ICM. You might use your multmeters diode test function to find an open junction. Tach bounce w/cranking? Can you make spark by intermittently manually grounding coil negative? Test light puse on coil - w/cranking? The modules can be unforgiving of very bad/loose plug/coil wires and non matching coils. Are you using a Hitachi coil? The distys seem to work even w/very bad bushings and cracked magnets.

I`m installing the same pump in an Austin Mini today. Black is ground on both pumps,

No need to disconnect anything. Power on coil negative proves coil continuity.

Exactly

Year? Motor?Carbed? Injected? We are not psychic. It sounds flooded.

Only 87 SPI ECUs are compatible according to the parts book. 22611 AA200 and 201 I`d pick a 201,if I had a choice,but,I would check the wiring between the injector and the ECU plug first.

Sounds similar to a problem II had once. Found I could correct it by pouring cold water over the engine compartment temperature sensor mounted near the EGR valve, Actual problem was a vacuum leak upstream of the temp sensor.

Check the fuel level in the carb sight glass before condemning the pump. If it is in the middle,pump is OK. The last Carter pump I installed died an early death. The Nippon-Denso replacement is still going strong. I think I would prefer a Chinese bottom dollar no name ebay special to a Carter.

Power on coil negative. Disty wiring.opens, Make sure the coil bracket is well grounded,

Coil bracket w/the transistor mounted on it if not already swapped.

Yes,you will get a rough idle once the clearance disappears. Page 23 may interest you. http://www.submariner.org/thepno95/Documents/Subaru%20H6%20Technician%20Reference%20Manual.pdf

Throttle not closing- "Butterfly screw is just ABOVE the butterfly mechanical contact." An unmetered air or vacuum leak. CTS is telling the IAC to fast idle. A faulty IAC. A faulty idle switch or associated wiring. How does it idle w/the IAC disconnected?