naru

Yes

Check for plugged exhaust.

Motor only needs to crank,not run,in order to use a timing light.

No CPU to reset. Fuel gauge circuit has high resistance.Bad connections or corroded sender.

That diagram is mislabeled. It shows an externally mounted ICU as used on pre 81s and an externally mounted voltage regulator as used pre 82. 81s are unique in having in having internally mounted ICUs combined w/an external VR. You would do yourself a favour to find a 1981 wiring diagram. Here is one http://www.ebay.com/itm/1981-SUBARU-1600-1800-ORIGINAL-SHOP-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL-W-WIRING-DIAGRAMS-81-/380731619938?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item58a55f7a62&vxp=mtr#ht_1437wt_670 Maybe you can find a cheaper one w/a want ad in the classifieds or photocopy one at the local dealer if you are lucky. Your ICU will be wired like the "full transistor ignitor" in the 82-3 dagram here http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/Subaru-ff-1-1300-1400-1600-1800-Brat-1970-1984-Repair-Guide/Wiring-Diagrams/Wiring-Diagrams/_/P-0900c15280065bf4 I believe thier 81 diagram is incorrect

I think you might be looking at the wrong diagram. 81s have the ICU mounted inside the disty. Pre 81 electronic distys mount the ICUs externally,wires to disty are white and pink,AFAIK.

Sounds like the ignition module might be missing. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1191638&cc=1267624 Sorta rare.Late 70s(1980?) California cars only.

Ask the seller how much play there is in the throttle shaft. Excessive wear here is the only reason I can think of to reject any Weber DGV series carb.

I`ve had clutch discs completely disintegrate such that the clutch hub is no longer attached to anything.

That sounds like lack of a tach signal to the ECU. I would hot wire the fuel pump and try again. No such thing as a NA MAF, Test yours by moving the flap and monitoring the voltage variation

Before doing anything drastic,I would put an ohmmeter across it(or power it up) and bash it around a little to confirm that it is indeed intermittent.

That is the idle stop solenoid. It cuts fuel to the idle circuit w/unpowered. You will need to find a used one. Since it is fubared anyway,I would unscrew it and cut or otherwise remove the pin that blocks the fuel passage. Might run on a bit at shutdown,but,that beats stalling.

You need a new manual not a resistor. Your car does not use one.

Since cash is an issue, a lot times you do not need a carb kit to reset the float level. The trick is to remove the carb top w/o breaking the gasket.Not always possible. A break at a non-strategic location(not a vacuum passage) is not terminal. I did not buy a carb kit in order to do the last few that I have done. I would change BOTH fuel filters before even checking fuel level. If they were changed very recently,I would at least remove them to check for a restriction(blow thru them).

I`d start by checking the fuel level in the carb.It should be at the middle of the sight glass.

Any EA82 sedan or wagon 85-to at least 89 is the same. I think 90-94 Loyales are the same too,but,my book only goes to 89.

83s and 84s are different. What year do you have? If you have an 84 ECU,you have a hgh altitude switch.It is inside the ECU on pin 18. Pin 17 will be blank for 84. 83s mount the switch external to the ECU.

Subaru part #S They all look still good to me.Phone a dealer.

I`d connect them. In theory you don`t even have to do that. Unlike a lot of heater valves,the ea-81 valve bypasses the flow around the heater core when turned off(instead of stopping the flow)

Yes,7 psi at full boost.

OOPS- forgot about the solenoid on later models Put the Tee between the solenoid and the manifold. That way the gauge will see manifold pressure.

The light means 1 psi IIRC.Not much.You want 7. Tee a pressure gauge into the wastegate "vacuum" line to get a measurement.

Sounds like a plug fouls at idle to me. Pull plug wires to find the dead one next time it happens.

suggestions??- Measure the fuel pressure under boost conditions What year we talkin? Are you actually seeing boost pressure on a gauge? Did it run better before the pipe swap? Slowing down at 60mph after flooring the throttle sounds like the knock sensor is pulling timing back possibly because of low fuel pressure/poor fuel.

It goes to the high altitude switch located in the ECU.(pin 18) It grounds itself above 1400m,signaling the KCU to advance timing 5 degrees.