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naru

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Everything posted by naru

  1. naru
    I can`t agree. The Carter-Webers run fine. They even have a slight bottom/mid end advantage over the Hitachis because of the completely mechanical throtlle linkage
  2. naru
    $250, WOW! That is harsh.I had no idea.Ferrari stuff is cheaper. Should be able to modify something.Good luck!
  3. naru
    The broken plastic piece is a thermostat that controls the carb base temperature. I would want that piece intact if I had a carbed car. Subaru 41720 7010 about $25 brand new or widely available used. Proper hoses are pretty cheap from them too.($10 range) For 84 Hitachis you want 8076 06102-bent one to thermostat 8076 06062-pass. side one 8076 15021- water pump one I`ve used fuel injection hose as a subsitute for coolant hoses myself,but,it is not a great idea as the hose is made to resist fuel corrosion,not coolant corrosion. Sometimes it is hard to find equivilents for the metric sized coolant hoses too. Smaller bypass hoses are all 6mm AFAIK,so 1/4 coolant hose should be OK.
  4. naru
    http://www.walkerproducts.com/_pdf/applicationguide.pdf
  5. naru
    That would be the ported vacuum that the reg is hooked too(AKA throttle bore pressure) Manifold vacuum does not enter the picture. Precise enough?
  6. naru
    But the proper balance depends on weight distribution,total weight,what brakes you have etc.
  7. naru
    Frankly.I am surprised you do not understand this. Manifold vacuum is irrelavant.The injector is not in the manifold. Quoting the FSM "The pressure regulator adjusts the fuel pressure to 147 Kpa (21 psi) compared to the throttle bore pressure of the throttle chamber." More vacuum = less pressure so to maintain a 21 psi difference fuel pressure must drop too. Don`t feel too bad,Being more familar w/MPI,I was confused the first time I measured fuel pressure on on a SPI/TBI car and saw how unresponive fuel pressure was to throttle opening compared to a MPI car myself.
  8. naru
    Seems pointless to install a Proportioning valve from the wrong car. How would it know how to Proportion properly?
  9. naru
    Broken nipples will not set the codes.only electical faults. Most often burnt solenoid coils.Put an ohmmeter across one to check.
  10. naru
    Swap ignitors if you have another.
  11. naru
    You have it backwards too. More vacuum = less fuel pressure.
  12. naru
    This is just plain WRONG. More vacuum =lower fuel pressure Pressure differential between the injector tip and the fuel rail needs to be a constant 21 psi.
  13. naru
    It is not foolish. On the contrary,it is the only way it will work. Regulator needs to maintain a constant pressure difference between the fuel supply and the injector tip for the ECM to meter fuel accurately. Since the SPI injector is above the throttle plate,regulator needs to measure pressure above the throttle plate. Throttle bore pressure is not the same as atmospheric pressure,hence the need for a regulator. MPI injectors are below the plate as is the regulator vacuum line.
  14. naru
    That pretty much confirms a leaky intake valve, Won`t be much to see under the valve cover. You could put shop air on #4 at TDC and listen for heavy hissing at the intake for confirmation.
  15. naru
    For 22100aa121 Rotor 49101 7021 Cap 49100 7001
  16. naru
    Not for a carbed 86. What is your disty # ?
  17. naru
    Open solenoid coil is a more common failure by far. Might want to check that.
  18. naru
    Those alternators don`t spin for free.It takes power to generate power. Higher amp draw = harder to turn.regardless of brand
  19. naru
    If the test light comes on(on coil -)all the fuses you need to worry about are good.Coil primary winding too. Only other thing preventing the light from pulsing is the module or disty harness.
  20. naru
    I don`t know what the yellow connector is,but,if the test light remains lit on coil negative w/o pulsing the B/W wire is not the problem. Nutty alternator, you say? Fried module,I say.
  21. naru
    Put a voltmeter on the B/W.It is a trivial matter to see if it is grounded. IIRC,you have an aftermarket coil. Since you have possibly had 3 module failures,I`d be very suspicious of the coil.
  22. naru
    Test light like the OP used is probably best for the Hitachis.Verify the disty harness continuity too. Diode test function of a multimeter is useful too.Look for opens or shorts. Not much to fail inside the disty to prevent spark. except the module. They seem to still spark with worn shaft bushings and cracked magnets. IME,module failures are almost always related to a failure in the secondary ignition system.Bad/loose plug/coil wires,open rotors.etc. Seen some go out from voltage regulator failure.I`d check for AC voltage coming from the alt. Wrong coil is a possibility too.
  23. naru
    No,just looking at the parts book. It shows 3 XT cables 181 for 87 up 4wds amd turbo 2wds(Jan 87 thru 89 at least) 180 for pre 87s 200 for n/a 2wds Does not mention lengths.
  24. naru
    37026 GA181 for 4wd XTs built after 86. Also for 2wd turbos
  25. naru
    If the light is lit but not pulsing on coil negative,that means the disty is not grounding the coil like it should. Probably a bad ignition module.
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