naru

No fuel is normal if there are no ignition pulses. Does the light stay lit on coil negative?

What car?

Ignitor is for 1979 2wds. Don`t think the coil is subaru unless it is pre 77 or has another #.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-HI-ALTITUDE-KIT-3D-4D-WAGON-4WD/261147931818?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.RVI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D21020%26meid%3D5144408717706591726%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D9336%26rk%3D0%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D261147931818#ht_396wt_670

+1 Define "good working order". Might not be the pump,but,go there first. Pump needs to maintain 43 psi at full boost,full throttle.Does it? You can put 7 psi on the regulator(full boost) w/a bicycle pump and then check the fuel pressure and volume after hot wiring the pump if a road test is out of the question.

Bad battery positive wire and/or connections. Measure the voltage.

The real first generation

What is a counterfeit knock-off?

Not w/a NEW starter. Measure the voltage at the solenoid terminal w/trying to start.Big terminal too. Cheaper than buying starters.

I`d be checking the tailight ground. Brake light bulbs for shorts to the talight circuit too.

Try jump starting it w/a screwdriver at the starter. Short the solenoid to the big positive w/the screwdriver. If it starts now,problem is too much resistance in the solenoid circuit. Since the starter solenoid has such low resistance,a small amount of extra resistance will drop the available voltage excessively.(you can measure it at the solenoid) Usual culprits are bad ignition switch contacts,melted ignition switch connectors neutral safety switches and bad harness connections. (you can measure the voltage drop across any of them while operating the starter to find the trouble spot(s)) A common work around is to install a relay to bypass the heavy current around the ignition switch etc. If it did not start w/the screwdriver and battery and connections are good,then it is bad contacts inside the solenoid. They can be replaced for about $5. Bad contacts may be an aggravating factor in the first scenario as well.

Should be 12V. Choke is powered by the Fuel pump control unit(FPCU-a fancy relay) Probably has bad contacts or the power to that section is bad.Fuse #5,I think. If your car has a computer and an O2 sensor(don`t think so) there is a seperate choke relay.

Weak fuel pump/clogged filters. Measure the fuel pressure on the fly if you want confirmation. It should maintain 43 psi at full boost. I would bet money it does not. Don`t pump it.It is not carbed.

Describe the loose connector.Pic? Sounds like it might be the connection for the knock control computer. I`m not sure if they will work w/o it. Aftermarket coils can be hard on ignition modules. Coil resistance is not the only factor. Maybe you fried them all.

Was it popping w/the Hitachi? Did you mess w/the timing/disty? Where do you have the vacuum advance hooked up? Can be many causes for an intake backfire,but,a lean mixture is very common. I`d be checking the base gaskets.

My books shows 5 different ones. Would not suprise me if there are others. 22070 AA011 for non XTs 85-6 22070 AA020 for 1988 XT6s 22070 AA030 for 1987 XTs 42088 7000 for 83 ea81ts 42088 7100 for 84 ea81ts My ea81t one is gold,IIRC. I`m guessing the wire differences are because the altitude switch was relocated to the KCU from the ECU in a later version. Just a guess though.

360 based 100mpg car built in the US by Subaru of America posing at the Ontario motorspeedway after its successful run

Clean the IAC.

Probably just need to back off the brake adjustment because the ID of the new drum is a little smaller.

Nothing,I think. Fuji Heavy Industries did a buyout in 1990. At that time they were worth $6800 based on the $8.50/share buyout price and a 8 for 1 share split in 1986. As high as $31,200 back in mid 1986. You may find this interesting http://www.nytimes.com/1987/06/11/business/market-place-hard-times-at-subaru.html