naru

2wd or 4wd?

Use the diode test function of a multimeter to compare it to a known good one. Test between all 3 connections,both polarities on each. Any significant difference confirms the bad one. Lacking one for comparision,shorts or opens are signs of trouble.

Or the wiring between the coil and disty is bad..... Or the magnet in the disty has problems(even cracked ones seem to work though) Quick and dirty way to test the other components is to intermittently ground coil negative(like the module is supposed to) and see if you have spark.(Key on.)

These are the best ones http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-1600-1800-SERVICE-MANUAL-ENGINE-AND-BODY-1984-MSA118-/321315063304?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item4acfdec608&vxp=mtr#ht_52wt_908

Stripped front hub or broken CV joint.

About $250 here http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Gates-TCKWP277A-Timing-Belt-Kit-With-Water-Pump-/331121717430?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d186470b6&vxp=mtr#ht_2057wt_930

Maybe not so bad. Hopefully,the only damage will be popped freeze plugs in the heads. Motor is probably hydraulicly locked from coolant being where it should not be. I would drain the oil to see if that frees up the motor. If it does, remove the valve covers,replace the frost plugs,change the oil,add some coolant and go back to the races.

Any of the 100`s of parts stores in Vancouver. Play one against the other.Phone for a price and tell the next guy he has to beat it or no deal. Most will move on the price given that ultimatum. By the time you have made a dozen or so calls,you will have the lowest price possible. Be hard nosed. I`ve done this in Vancouver.Works great. Should be easy to beat the online sources mentioned.

Almost the same. Later one has an optical distributor,hotwire MAF and ECU controlled spark,boost and egr.

Power it up like normal and a test light on coil - should flash if the module is OK. I think you can use the electromagnetic field from the tip of a soldering iron to stimulate the pick-up coil type ones. I have not tried that yet. Diode test function of your multimeter will show open or shorted semiconducter junctions between the module connections 99% of the time for bad ones.Much simpler.

It is 11.3V because it is drained down after starting the motor. If the battery draws enough charging amps,alternator won`t be able to keep the voltage up, Weakish alternator will not help. Battery has problems as evidenced by the 11.3V. 12.3 is crap too.

Bad battery.

Why does the oil smell like fuel? Why did my car have less power after you worked on it? Maybe he got the T belt on wrong, Worth a look. Not unusual to lose a rod after repairing an internal head gasket leak. External,not so much. He would not have seen the bottom end w/doing head gaskets. Rod failed because oil was fuel thinned for some reason.

Is it having trouble turning over or starting? Turning over problems are battery,wire,or starter related, Check to see if spark is actually absent w/cold. If so,Check to see if coil has 12V on coil -,w/key on. Check plug/coil wire cold resistance. Despite the name,ignition relays do not have anything to do w/the ignition,

Low idle may be entirely due to the too low resistance of the cts fooling the ECU into thinking the engine is very warm. Might be an IAC problem too.I would repair the CTS first and see what happens. Did you measure the CTS w/2 prongs? That is the engine control one. There is a one prong one nearby that runs the gauge only. Common problem w/the CTS is corrosion at the connector causing too high resistance thereby making the engine think it is colder than it really is. Not in your case, If anything,cleaning the corrosion will lower the resistance,not increase it. There is the engine section of a FSM for your car here:http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx 1989,but,everything is the same. CTS on page 2-7

Chisel,air or otherwise would be much easier. Make an indentation by holding it at 90 degrees . Once there is something to grip,angle the chisel 45 degrees or so to spin the plug. Hitting as close to the OD as you dare will give the greatest turning torque. Blows will help penetrating oil penetrate

EJ 22 EA-81 w/dual Kadrons

Just measured one.35 ohms Bad one will be much higher,probably infinite. Idle speed control does sound like the major problem. Spraying intake cleaner into the passages w/engine running is the usual cleaning method. Sometimes,I take them off to clean.Can`t remember if a new gasket would be required on your motor. EGR stuck open will give you worse than a low idle. Normally,a stuck open EGR valve will a very unsteady unsmooth idle(if it idles) 99% chance your troubles are not EGR related.

It is the solenoid,not the valve. The ECU has no way of knowing whether the valve works or not,(or the solenoid either,really) ECU can sense w/the solenoid coil is open however. Open winding is a normal failure mode.Test it w/an ohmmeter. You can fool the computer into thinking the solenoid coil is present by subsituting a resistor. You will lose EGR function(not really desirible). I have a spare solenoid I could part with. I will PM you. Your recent running problems will be unrelated to the EGR solenoid, I would check for a corroded connection at the coolant temperature sensor and clean the idle speed control.

Your MAF is not in that manual. Probably not the problem. Check it w/an ohmmeter or voltmeter while moving the flap, Sounds more like a large leak in the rubber intake pipe/associated plumbing or PCV hoses. Check fuel pressure too.

Yeah,that will give you a high idle. Holes are added to throttle butterflys in order to change the timing of the transition ports in the idle circuit. Completely normal for some applications. Sometimes they are added to compensate for a lumpy cam w/poor idle qualities. Often.in order to get an acceptable idle speed w/a hot cam,throttle butterfly is too far open,uncovering the transition ports at idle(undesirable). In your case,hole was added in an attempt to compensate for the added idle airflow requirements of a 4.3 engine(too large for this carb). Adding a hole to the throttle plate allows it to close furthur and cover the transition ports at the same idle airflow. I would solder some copper or brass over the hole and call it done. Or a nut and screw,peened over to hold them in.Or a rivet or epoxy or .........

Actually,5W oils are measured at -25 C(-13 F). I am not anti synthetic. I use it in a turbo car for its superior high temperature performance.

Let me rephrase that,boys. Since all 5W-XX oils are viscosity tested at a temperature well below those mentioned by the OP, there would be no flow advantage to synthetic.

Distributor centrifugal advance stuck? Incorrect ignition timing? Poor compression? Plugged exhaust? Dragging brakes? Will it rev out strongly in the lower gears? I`m thinking you should get more than 3200,at least downhill. It is a subaru.You have to floor it.

Sounds like a bad clutch alright.