naru

You mean flywheel,not flexplate. The one you want is in 83 up 4wds w/an ea-81 engine. Resurfacing is nice,but,not really necessary unless the flywheel is messed up,

88 corolla I recently put a clutch in had big warnings about not putting weight on the wheels w/axles removed, Something about distorting the bearings,I think

Absence of a light show after misting the plug wires does not mean the insulation is good, You might try misting them again and running your hand along them w/engine running. You will know when you find a bad one. Measure plugwire resistance too.

Synthetic oil does not flow any better, Viscosity is viscosity, If they flowed different,viscosity #s would be different. I would not use 0w-30 unless the owners manual says it is OK,

Sounds like the fast idle cam is hanging up. Confirm that the fast idle screw does not touch the cam behind the choke thermostat after the choke opens. Not unusual for the cams to gum up and stick. I would also check that the secondary throttle is not hanging open.

Rubberless plug socket and a seperate magnetic pickup tool works for me. Those rubbers always fall out or stick to the plug.

http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/123179-how-to-install-a-rear-fog-light-in-your-jdm/ http://www.smyperformance.com/2008-2014-sti/exterior/2011-2014-sti-sedan/jdm-rear-brake-light-fog-light.html

Your car is equipped with the NSA blocker option fitted to some former Japanese embassy cars

That makes it sound more like leaky insulation on the plug/coil wires,cracked cap or very dirty coil top If you get a light show after misting the wires w/water at night,you can be sure.

Find your car on http://car-part.com/ The part you want won`t be listed,so pick some other random part. Phone one of the wreckers that has your car and tell them how to locate the part you need. It has worked for me.

Smooth cold idle? Healthy spark? Checked plugwire resistance? I would check fuel pressure.Maybe your pump does not like the cold or is just weak. Poor cold starts were the first symptom of a weak pump on mine. Car ran amazingly well otherwise,even under boost! Seems unlikely.but a bad air temperature sensor in the MAF is possible. Not much service info available.I would compare sensor resistance to another or sub a known good MAF for testing. Coolant temperature sensor might still be wonky. I would check its resistance. Double checking CTS resistance at the ECU plug might help. Unmetered air or vacuum leak that seals w/rising temps is another possibility. The rubber intake tract and PCV hoses are among the suspects.

Flooded. Very likely leaky injectors if not a CTS problem. Use a gauge to see if it holds pressure after shutdown if the CTS checks out.

Sounds more like it does not hold fuel pressure. See if it holds pressure after shutdown w/a gauge.

. Kits listed here. http://www.royze.com/kit%20subaru.htm

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/107072-coolant-leaking-from-header/

#1 needs to be at TDC of the COMPRESSSION stroke w/installing disty. Easy to confuse compression stroke TDC w/exhaust stroke TDC. I like to leave the valve cover off and watch the intake valve close while rotating the engine to confirm I`m on the compression stroke.

You need to check for codes while the ECS light is on and the engine is running.

Only code 12 with the engine running and ECS light on? Sounds like it could be an oil pressure switch/actual oil pressure problem.

There are 2 different knock sensors.1 and 2 pin, Could be wrong,but.I thought EA81Ts and flapper EA82Ts used the single pin while hotwire EA82Ts used the 2 pin, I believe they are interchangable by adapting the wiring.

You are confusing the Auxilary air valve on yor MPI w/the IACV on SPIs. A simple AAV will not work w/a SPFI ECU. Coolant sensor has no effect on an AAV.It gets 12V all the time. Idle RPM is feedback controlled by the SPFI ECM. Not so for MPI.

Probably dies at 3/4 throttle because the computer is in fail safe mode. Bet it doesn`t die at 3/4 w/you disable the IACV by blocking the tube and leaving it plugged in. IACV needs a good cleaning,IMO.

Sounds more like your garden variety unmetered air/vacuum leak from this great distance, Leak becomes more significant as idle air supply decreases. Check the intake tract for cracks etc,

No,not really. It means the throttle is open too far and the engine is not running on the idle circuit.Fuel is being pulled from the main circuit instead. Could be because the idle jet or air passages are plugged,Anti diesel solenoid inoperative too, 200 rpm is way too much rpm drop w/doing a lean drop adjustment.More like 30-50rpm.

Sounds like a plug fouls.Could be fuel or coolant. Does a good REV or two improve matters? I would start by inspecting the CTS connector for corrosion and the sender for resistance. Next,check fuel pressure to see if it drops after shutdown because of a leaky injector. See if you can identify a dead cylinder by pulling plug wires. Pull plugs after a short period to inspect for fuel and coolant. Make sure spark is as strong as w/cold. Since the problem only begins after a hot soak,I`m guessing it is not the usual unmetered air/vacuum leak from the rubber intake tract or rock hard PCV/vacuum hoses that the turbos suffer from. Worth checking anyway.

Can you reccomend a model? Big? Small?