naru

Loose impeller nut fact sheet http://www.btnturbo.com/assets/factsheet_8_looseImpeller.pdf I did not read anything about the oil being changed. Seems like debris in the oil from the first failed turbo may have destroyed the 2 new ones. (you mentioned loose bearings on #1 replacement) Another website specificaly mentions Subaru and insists that you remove and clean the oil supply lines to ensure adequate flow.before installing a new turbo. Oil pickup screen too..

If a turbocharger has failed due to oil starvation, there are several key indicators to investigate. Firstly, if the compressor wheel nut is missing, this is a clear indication of main shaft seizure. This may be categorized further by the micro-welding of the main shaft to its housing, locking it solid. from https://www.delphiautoparts.com/en/toolbox/turbo-failure-modes-oil-starvation Mahle says the same. https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/media/local-media-north-america/pdfs/catalogs-and-literature/turbo-damage-brochure-mo-2-612.pdf The shaft might suddenly become blocked in the bearing housing due to the mixed friction. If the rotating assembly is suddenly blocked, the locking nut of the impeller can become loose. I`ve never seen it,but,it sounds reasonable.

Restricted exhaust. Bad fuel pump would give a sputtery type power loss

Remove the pin. You lose the anti diesel function,but,the carb will work.

Holder-Fuel injector 16605aa010 Any Dealer or some wreckers https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/HOLDER-FUEL-INJECTOR-MPIB/49228220/16605AA010.html I hve some cracked ones on my ea81 but not as bad as yours.

No,I would not do that w/o confirming the original one is bad w/a pressure test.

Could be a lot of things. Probably pops and backfires beacause it is too lean. Could be a few reasons for that. Vacuum leaks,unmetered air leaks.weak fuel pump etc. I would start by checking for an unmetered air leak between the MAF and the throttle body. The large black hose gets holes in it.All the small hoses that attach to it need to be airtight too. Compression test might be a good idea. Read the trouble codes off the ECU if the check engine light is on. The oil pressure gauge sounds normal enough.

They were made since 1981,apparently. http://subaru-philosophy.com/post/28471558558/the-evolution-of-the-subaru-leone-1971-to-1994

Your 82 Brat came with a Hitachi distributor .It sounds like someone swapped in a 2wd Nippondenso.That is why you getting the wrong parts. Generaly speaking,most module failures are a result of mismatched coils,overcharging issues or very bad/loose plug or coil wires. I think the Hitachis are a little more robust than the Nippondensos,but,they fail too.

Yes,that is normal,the ecm controls it by controlling the ground connection. Don`t ground it. Check the cts. Try w/it unhooked.See if that changes the cold idle w/the IAC plugged in.

That shows the NAPA one had too low resistance since post #11 or earlier. Probably partially shorted field windings. It would only start charging w/an abnormally high voltage/current at/thru L. Surprising that 3 were the same! Cheers

Measuring the current thru the fuse location would be easier. No resistor needed.

For furthur diagnosis we need a different measurement.

For furthur diagnosis we need a different measurement. Either measure the voltages at the charge lamp again with the plug disconnected from the alternator and white/red grounded thru an 8 ohm resistance or measure the current on white/red w/everything connected(suggested). Haven`t measured mine yet,but,I am expecting something in the 0.5 amp neighbourhood.YMMV I plan to pull the fuse and put the ammeter in its place.

Or an easier way would be to measure the current on the white/red w/everything hooked up and compare to mine. I`ll show you mine if you show me yours.

We are getting somewhere now. Assuming the 3-3.5 volt measurement on my working alternator is OK.that means the resistance of the bulb is too high(try wiggling it around) or the resistance to ground thru the alternator is too low. You can detemine which by comparing to mine. Measure the voltage at the bulb w/the alt.plug removed and white/red grounded thru an 8 ohm resistor. An 8 ohm resistor simulates the alternator well and gives around 3 volts at the plug.(I used a large rheostat) If the 1.6 volts increases much,your alternators resistance to ground is lower than mine. If the 1.6 volts stays nearly the same your charge lamp has higher resistance than mine. Seems sorta unlikely that anything w/the lamp changed since you had a working alternator.but,with the overcharging,who knows. More likely the relacement alternator is different somehow. Test rig at the shop likely had a different amount of resistance on this wire.

What voltage do you have going into the cluster at the plug? Measure at pin #5 of the LH plug when looking from the rear(count clockwise from the gap) Upon reflection,there are a couple of diodes in the cluster that could affect things if they were faulty as well.

The charge lamp is the only thing that is supposed to affect the voltage on the white/red. One side of the bulb should be battery voltage. The other side should be around 3.5 volts or so. What voltages do you have? There is no voodoo majic inside the cluster affecting the voltage. Just the bulb.

That is a screwy diagram. One of the terminals is missing and having 2 wires on L makes no sense. I agree that it is highly preferable to power L thru the correct voltage dropping lamp(no resistor on ea81s) and known good wiring,but I can`t agree with your doomsday predictions for a quick test w/o the lamp. The OP has already determined his original 1.7 volts at L was insufficient and there is a wiring problem w/this technique.

Notice that there is a parallel wire running DIRECTLY from L to battery positive.

Subaru engineered it just fine. It is not thier fault you don`t understand it. Yes,I recall that you do not understand Ohm`s law. You should not give advice until you do.

Only for 1982. There are 2 versions for cars.80-81 and 82

Both should be 12V running. The white/red will be about 3.5V not running.(key on) Apparently 1.7V is not enough to get the alternator charging. You have a bad connection somewhere along the path of the white/red wire back to battery positive that adds resistance and drops the voltage too low. Find it by taking voltage measurements along the way.(key on) Should be 3.5V all the way back thru the fuse to one side of the charge lamp. Other side of the lamp should be battery voltage all the way back thru the ignition switch and fusible link.

The L terminal is NOT ground. It is 3.5 volts above ground. THERE IS A LOAD ON THE L TERMINAL-the field coil The whole purpose of the L wire is to supply intial field cutrrent.. What part of this don`t you understand? And while we are correcting mistakes,the charge lamp is neither an induced load nor an inductive one.

Indeed,I would only do this as a short term test to prove the fault lies w/the wiring and not the alternator. But.... When the alternator is not spinning and the key is on: The white red/wire does not get 12 volts. I measure about 3.5 w/the bulb in the circuit. There is no dead short. If there was a dead short,voltage would be 0 at the plug. The field coil is in the circuit,4-5 ohms.It sees 12+ volts all the time Only danger I see is a higher than normal current thru the transistor that controls field current until the alternator spins. A switch in the white/red jumper would be a good idea. One should only have to turn it on for a couple of seconds to self excite the alternator.