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naru

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Everything posted by naru

  1. Same friend that thought the MAF and IAT sensors might be dirty?
  2. Upstream exhaust leak could indeed cause rich running once the O2 sensor warms up. Try it w/O2 disconnected. The fact that it is an idle problem suggests leaness is more likely though. I wish I had a nickel for every customer who incorrectly thought he could detect mixture strength w/his nose.
  3. Loose inner CV joints can cause a vibration w/accellerating. Check them for play. Sometimes they are bad w/o detectable slop. Had one once that required axle replacement to finally diagnos.
  4. What makes you think it is running rich? What does the O2 sensor have to say on the subject? Based on your brief description,I`d bet money it is lean. Dirty IAT sensor causing problems is unheard of, Bad MAF is almost as unlikely, Turbo right? My money is on an unmetered air leak from the rubber intake tract/associated plumbing or PCV system. Or a vacuum leak.Put a gauge on it, I would inspect the CTS cnnector for corrosion as well.
  5. Same meter said pump had impossibly low resistance. Not a good thing. If one measuremement is wrong,the other is questionible. Voltage measurement on a loaded circuit is much more informative.
  6. 0 Ohms? Really?? If the fuel pump was really 0 ohms,fuse would blow instantly. Should be somewhere above 2 ohms, You have the range scale of your meter set too high. I don`t get 0 ohms even if I short my meter leads together.(on low range) Makes me question your 0 ohm ground reading. Ohmmeter readings are not really great for this.Circuit might be low resistance for the miniscule meter current but higher for any real current. Check ground pin voltage instead. I would test the pump by hot wiring it before buying another.
  7. On mine squirrels/mice chewed the fan blades until it was unbalanced and wonky.
  8. Spark plugs may be fuel fouled after the incorrect firing order starting attempt. Pull 1 or 2 to see.
  9. 12 volts is 12 volts,as long as you checked while the pump was plugged in. How is the ground?
  10. The amount of advance and the amount of vacuum it takes to get that advance can vary. Mounting differences too of course.
  11. No difference at all for 83 brats. Don`t know about the hondas. For 83 non turbo subes the difference is 4wd or non. 4wds have hitachi distys,2wds nippon denso. California same same. I have a good hitachi vacuum advance for an 83 I could let go.
  12. Late 87 up non turbo XT w/automatic is the original application.
  13. Found my bill.Here are the parts I used. 424207000 gasket 806914020 ring 806938020 ring 806949030 ring 806915050 ring
  14. No,it is on the other side by the coil.Altitude connector is seperate.You are supposed to disconnect it w/setting timing so that it does not interfere. Compression,vacuum and fuel pressure checks are all good ideas. Miss at hot idle sounds most likely like an unmetered air or vacuum leak, though. I would try injecting some propane into the intake.If the idle smoothes,you can eliminate mechanical problems. Carefully inspect the large rubber intake tube and all associated plumbing for cracks or leaks. PCV hoses too. I had to add a few clamps.
  15. You want an oil pump gasket.Widely available. There are 4 or 5 associated O rings that should be replaced at the same time.Dealer items. I just paid $11 for the 5 or 6 parts. Dealer has an oil pump reseal kit.I bought parts individualy.
  16. Integrated into the ECU for 84s. Stand alone for 83s. 84 FSM diagnosis for code 41 is "replace the ECU". I would try disconnecting altitude signal connector near the round knock box plug in case a faulty knock box is some how responsible. Doubt this code is responsible for your running symptoms.
  17. I would swap the distributor advance weights and springs for the MPI ones if possible. The turbo dizzy advances a lot slower.
  18. Congratulations! A job well done. I was considering doing the same if my AAV ever quit. Good to know it works. No shortage of donors.
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