naru

Yes,as long as they are both tilt wheel or non tilt wheel. $69 is high. I was quoted less at the dealer for new.

What are the new codes? They will be yours,not from the previous car. My theory,is that the original ECU was in some kind of CPU limp mode that ignored most of the sensor inputs.New ECU is not,and is looking for missing sensor info. Was the new ECU a confirmed runner? Maybe it has a failed fuel pump drive like mine.It will give codes all day long,but,will not drive the fuel pump relay.

Been so long,I have trouble remembering. Motor was out.Don`t think trans was out,but maybe. IIRC,I removed the plate w/4 bolts at the top of the transfer case to access the shifter rails. I remember thinking afterwards that I probably could have freed things up by being a little more forceful w/the selector lever. In your case,I would carefully tap on the lever by the starter while someone applies pressure to the selector lever

I mispoke. Make sure the ECU is unplugged w/measuring ground resistances whether you measure at the plug or check connector.

Yes,one on each ground pin.Other on negative. Backprobing is what you said. Check connectors are multi pole red and yellow open connectors right beside the green one. They provide non-intrusive access to the ECU wiring (and other stuff). Look for a 9 pin yellow,6&9 pin reds.Ground wires are black/red.Power is white/black One more 5 pole brown check connector near the airflow meter Ground is black.

Either ohms or volts. Voltage measurements on an operating circuit can be more enlightening.Ohms are OK For ohms: Pull the ECU plug. One lead on battery negative,the other on the relevent ground pin. Resistance should be very low.Maybe 0.1 ohm or so. You can use the yellow and red "check connectors" near the ECU instead of pulling the plug,but,I would not bother. For volts: Key on.Car running would be desirable. One lead on battery negative,the other at each check connector ground pin or backprobing the ECU plug. Voltage should not be more than a tenth or two.I would quickly check for AC voltage while the leads are hooked up. Check power on pin 24 or the check connector similarly. Check for good pin engagement while the plug is off.

I had one where low range hadn`t been used for so long,the high/low shifter rail in the transfer case was seized.Went into 4 high fine.No low. Some minor disassembly and a few hammer taps took care of it.

From what I have read,some Nissan ECUs(also hitachi made) will hold the ECU light on steady to indicate that they are in "ECU limp mode"(as opposed to garden variety sensor failure limp mode).Maybe ours are similar. As a last resort,I would open it up to resolder everything I could,hoping trouble is due to a poor connection.

On my car and in the 84 FSM,ECU control ground is at the centre of the intake about 2 inches in front of the "B" in TURBO. ECU drive is grounded thru the body ground connection near the battery and the ground post buried "under" the fusebox,AFAIK. I doubt a bad ground is causing the light to stay on,but,worth checking. I would pull the ECU plugs and verify proper grounding between ground pins 5,27,31,32,33 and battery negative.Proper connection too. 5 is the control ground. Same for power on pin 24. I recently had trouble w/a loose ECU plug. Barely ran,had an airflow meter code and 30 volts AC! at the battery.All because of a loose plug. The oil buildup/blow-by under the intake thing,makes it sound like you have a vacuum/boost leak as well. You may want to check the air relief valve assy.

That piston is garbage. Get a new one from the dealer.Around $25.

My 84 owners manual disagrees.I quote: CAUTION SAE 5W-30 is not recommended for Turbo vechiles and sustained high speed driving on all vehicles. It goes on to say that 5-30 is OK as long as the temperature does not exceed -25 C or -13 F.

Got an extra boost sensor? It runs the gauge and mounts on the firewall near the RH hood hinge.One vacuum line.One electrical plug.Says Boost sensor on it and has Hitachi part # PS14-01. Mine decided to go out of calibration a little,

The turbo tachs are different part #s. I`m not sure what you need to do to mount your turbo gauge,but,I think you need to add a wire or 2.

Check for stripped splines on the front hubs.

No resistance (0 ohms) is good here.Infinite resistance is bad. If infinite,I would pull the ECU plug and check continuity between the relevant pin and B. I recently had a problem w/poor connections at the ECU myself.

Could well be the coil bracket mounted ignitor.I`ve seen them damaged by disconnected coil high tension wires. If the injector(s) fire w/cranking,disty is OK. If injector works and coil negative has power,but still no spark,ignitor is likely fried.

Post your ECU part #.

There should be NO continuity w/the .79mm feeler. You seem to have dropped a decimal point in the second part. B&D should be 4.7k or 4700 ohms B&C should be under 1000 ohms,throttle closed B&C should be OVER 2400,throttle open full(about 80% of B&D,about 3700 in your case) B&C should change continously thru the full range of throttle movement. If not,TPS is fubared. I would make sure B is well grounded and D has 5 volts. Don`t see how any minor adjustment of the idle switch would greatly affect the throttle opening signal. Code 31 is only for open or shorted TPSs.An out of range one won`t set the code.(wiring problem might) Code 35 maybe?

I think you will find the black with red has power w/the ignition is in the start position. It bypasses the ballast resistor for starting. Put an ohmmeter between the hex and the head yet?

Plugged fuel filter will cause the pump to draw more current than normal and wear out quicker. I would check for proper voltage at the pump w/everything connected as well.

Fuel pressure check

The bolt holes in the crankshaft flange go all the way thru the flange,so it is possible for oil to seep thru unsealed threads. Pretty sure National 222050 or SKF 8550 are correct. Both should be widely available.

I`ve had bad brushs cause the bulb test to fail on other makes.

37026GA100 is only for 2wds according to my info.Length = 36.25 inches. You want 37026GA080 if yor build date is before Sept. 1986. 37026GA081 for later builds.Length = 33.40 inches