naru

Carbed cars do not have a coil bracket mounted transistor. Got spark? I think you fried the module inside the disty.They can be sensitive to coil choice. Check by putting a test light on coil -,while cranking. If it flashs,you are golden. If it stays on w/o flashing,module is bad. If it stays off w/attached to coil +,it is a power problem. If it stays off on coil -,but,lights on coil +,coil is fried. Original problem likely unrelated,IMO.

Not much info in the FSM. Check for 12V on the power lead. Check the ground lead is grounded. Check that the signal wire has 0.1-0.5V w/key on,engine off. Check that the signal voltage increases w/you blow thru the maf. No other info provided. Logic says it should respond quickly. I would look at O2 sensor voltage for mixture abnormalities and test the TPS too.

You need to rotate the caliper piston.

The pumps are different. SPFI pump will not be adequete for a turbo,IMO. Discharge pressure and flow rate are greater for the turbo one. SPFI is 36-50 psi and flows 80 litres/hour at 21 psi. Turbo is 51-71 psi and flows 95 litres/hour at 43.4 psi. Since max boost requires 44 psi fuel,the SPFI pump is a weakling. I used an Airtex 8312 on my turbo.

The 5 short flashes are a specification code. 5= 49 state car w/manual trans

Bad ground

Straight 12 VDC. It is the "relay" that needs to see pulses.

You want the PCV reroute kit. Read it all:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/124117-diagnosis-my-engine-is-a-paradox-in-the-space-time-continuum/

11.9 w/the wire connected or disconnected? Auto or manual?

There should be a sleeve in there similar to #7 here: http://www.justanswer.com/subaru/5zg7i-subaru-legacy-2-5i-94-subaru-legacy-the-front-brake-caliper.html

Thought so. This pretty much confirms it is not the carb

Idle fuel pressure does not mean much in this case. Tape your gauge to the outside of the windshield and check pressure while going 40+ and motor acting like it is starving for gas. Sounds like a weak pump or plugged filters to me.

I had an identical problem. I found the neutral safety switch(inhibitor switch in subespeak) had intermittent high resistance (about 7 ohms) when in the closed (park or neutral) position. Since a new switch was a little pricey,I removed the console to cut the relavent wires going to the switch and soldered them together. Starts in any gear now,but,starts everytime.

Because #1 was not firing. Vacuum leak leaned out the mixture for #1 to the point of incumbustibility

You have a vacuum leak. Unmetered air upset the mixture causing rough running. The (normal) extra rich starting mixture combines w/the extra air giving high revs on start up. Start by checking for cracked or disconnected vacuum hoses.There are other possibile leak locations. Codes are unlikely to help. Check them by connecting the unconnected diagnostic jumper wires and observing the LED ON THE ECU. Not sure of thier location or colour on an 86 XT.Possibly green and under the dash.

Brat? Sounds like the dash ground under the fuse box is disconnected.

Use a new one. Subaru 11051AA010.$2-$3 If 20mm is corect,there are aftermarket ones. Dorman 555-101 or NAPA 381-2151 Dorman ones are on ebay if no one local has them.

I would reinstall the old PCV.Seems the NEW one is faulty.

Good description of code 13,not 12. 12 is starter switch never on. 13 is starter switch always on.

The starter switch is the starter solenoid. Code 12 means the computer has not seen 12 volts on the B/W? wire,and did not know it was supposed to be in start mode. Are you sure it was not code 11? 11 is normal on a no start. Your 86 EA-82T does not have a crankshaft position sensor like later ones. Fuel pressure is good,but how good? psi?Plugs wet?

Logic failure. Aircooled engines have been made in many configurations including V-12s and straight 8s so by your logic it is obvious that all those engine layouts also work well with just airflow.

The valve is sticking in it's guide due to buildup.

Pretty sure that is the WRONG one. I would not trust that listing at all.It does not even give the carb #. Listing also claims it fits fuel injected models! Complete BS,of course. SUB 176 is a Hitachi DCZ-328-xx rebuilt by National Carburetors. AFAIK,DCZ-328s are for EA-82 engines(won`t fit your EA-81) I believe the correct one would be a DCP-306-xx where the x`s represent different versions corresponding to auto/manual Califonia/Federal and year. There is no power to be gained by removing the "emission stuff'. No top end power gain from a weber conversion either.Mid range throttle response is better though. Why does your mechanic want to replace the carb? Often,this is a cop-out because they don`t know what else to say. Just saying. Like your paint job.

I don`t have an extra. Plenty on ebay though.Exact year is probably unimportant. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-SUBARU-1600-1800-DL-GL-GLF-FACTORY-SERVICE-MANUAL-SHOP-OEM-REPAIR-/360681623446?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item53fa4ccf96&vxp=mtr#ht_1179wt_1170 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-SUBARU-1600-FACTORY-SERVICE-MANUAL-USED-ITEM-/251293000742?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item3a823ae426&vxp=mtr#ht_151wt_932 No mention of reverse threads. I would use an impact.I have not done this repair myself. Hopefully someone w/hands on experience will pipe up soon.

FSM uses a special tool to hold the mainshaft while undoing that nut,so pinion teeth should be OK. I can`t see the forces involved being any greater than while driving. Prayers wouldn`t hurt.