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naru

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Everything posted by naru

  1. naru
    I think that one is staked on. You need to release the stakes w/a punch ,if so.
  2. naru
    Yes,TX96 looks correct. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMP-STANDARD-TX96-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor-/150952259079?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232574ae07&vxp=mtr#ht_1122wt_932
  3. naru
    TS183 is a fan switch,not a temperature sender. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Motor-Products-TS183-Radiator-Fan-Switch-/170827594746?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c61e3bfa&vxp=mtr#ht_1395wt_1170
  4. naru
    Open the bleeder on the affected wheel to see if the master is holding pressure on the caliper. I`ve seen bad brake hoses do the same thing. Sometimes they develop an internal flap that acts as a one way valve. Brake will release when the bleeder is opened.
  5. naru
    Arcs between the plug hexes and the head suggest that the plugs are not grounded to the heads thru the threads for some reason. Did you use some type of anti-seize? I would measure resistance between the plug hex and the head for confirmation. Coil sounds fine.
  6. naru
    No schrader valve. Tee it in after the filter and before the fuel rail.
  7. naru
    Gears No crappy belts or chains
  8. naru
    1200 lbs.? You sure? I see curb weights 0f 1800-2000 lbs for justys.
  9. naru
    35 psi above manifold pressure. So 35 w/engine off,a little lower w/idling Pressure should hold on shut down. Compression is kinda low. I think you have a leaky injector,probably on the 95# cylinder. Pull one or all spark plugs next time it does not start.Check for fuel fouling.Would be nice to see if it holds fuel pressure first. Seems to me a faulty IAC would affect idle speed,but,not quality. MPFIs have an Auxilary Air Valve rather than an ISC.It is the black square thing near the thermostat.Very simple and rarely go bad. Item in your photo is the idle speed solenoid(for the AC) IIRC.
  10. naru
    Not a lot to go on. Hard cold starts? Hard hot starts? Both? Eliminate the easy stuff first. Check the coolant temp sensor for resistance and corrosion Check fuel pressure.See if it holds on shut down. Check delivery volume.My own poor starting MPFI had good pressure at idle but no volume. Check compression, Pictured item is the injector resistors.They should be hot.
  11. naru
    If it runs well otherwise,vacuum lines should be OK. You might want to check the fuel pressure regulator line. Sounds like a spark plug or 2 is fouling possibly from a leaky injector. See if it holds fuel pressure after shutdown. See what the coolant temp reads if you have a scanner. Check the CTS connector for corrosion,
  12. naru
    Nippon Denso W20EPR-U11 Champion RN9YC-4
  13. naru
    Subaru does not use more than one part # for the same part.(updated can be different).
  14. naru
    You may not like it and the differences may be minor,but, there are 19 variations.
  15. naru
    No,there are many flavours. Parts book shows 19 different rear crossmembers for ea-82 cars. You need one from a RX w/a build date of Jan. 87 or later.
  16. naru
    Wrong. California cars had ECMs and O2 sensors..
  17. naru
    You can measure resistance,but,that merely tells you if the winding is OK not whether they are leaking or sticky If you have an old style ignition dwell meter,you can use it to compare ECU injector signals between the good and bad ones(they are fired in pairs). Fairly easy to pull the injectors,pressurize the fuel system and check for leaks.I found a leaker on my ea-81t. Be aware that a misfire for any reason(including a too lean mixture) may leave the plugs wet w/fuel. If I suspected injectors,I would swap them to the good side and see if the problem follows. You can have them cleaned and flow tested at a local big rig shop fairly inexpensively. I`d be surprised if the injectors are causing your problem.
  18. naru
    Dealer would be easier. 6220 04020 $15 -$20 each
  19. naru
    +1 Measure voltage again w/wires removed from the negative terminal to test the coil winding. If 0 while positive terminal is 12 volts,coil is bad.
  20. naru
    EA-81Ts are 15 btdc not 20.
  21. naru
    You should have 12 volts on both coil terminals(+/-),w/key on. Do you?
  22. naru
    That is wrong. The strictly oil cooled EA-81Ts were VF1s. Early EA-82s were VF2s. I pulled a VF2 from an 85/86, IIRC. VF4s and VF7s followed in later years. The VF1 has noticeably smaller wheels. The VF2,4,and 7 are almost indistigushible. They are all RHB5s. RHB52s are a slightly different breed.
  23. naru
    Specs for an ea-81t coil secondary winding are 8000-12000 ohms so you are good there. Primary is .84-1.02 ohms,however. Reading resistances that low can be tricky.Does your meter "zero" properly w/the leads shorted? Check it w/a one ohm resistor ,if you have one. I would shake the coil around w/the ohmeter attached to see if the reading changes. A worthy coil test is to observe the strength of spark w/an inexpensive spark tester w/an adjustable gap. If the spark jumps a lenghty gap,coil is OK at that moment at least. IME,coil failures are few and far between.Never say never though. Be careful w/any coil subsitutions. Some aftermarket coils may cause problems for your expensive ignition module. Still running poorly after ECU reset? Check plug wire resistance. How do the spark plugs look? All the same? Fuel pressure should be checked early in the diagnosis. I would remove plug wires one at a time ,attempting to isolate the dead cylinder.
  24. naru
    UPDATE It crashed yesterday http://www.castanet.net/edition/news-story-91837-2-.htm#91837
  25. naru
    Must be close EJ-22
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