naru

Not sure if you meant this one http://www.the944.com/afm.htm

That is a heat insulator,not a gasket. You need to visit a dealer or get a used one. Subaru 42206 7000 is an 84 one.Likely the same. You could probably run w/o it in a pinch.

No,that is not right. The empty fitting in the 2nd picture is the intake air source for the AAV(auxilary air valve). It connects via a U-shaped hose(8075 12112 officialy,12 x19 mm,about $15,you want fuel/oil resistant hose for this one) to the AAV(auxilary air valve,the black square thing) that you have connected to the turbo at present.That is not a water line. Take the RH hose off the turbo and bend it up to the fitting if possible. I have the upper turbo water line Teed into a heater line. Lower goes down to the bottom of the RH head.I improvised a heat shield.

I`ve done it w/other motors than were run.Worked for me. Would not recommend it though.

Epoxy it. Spend the money on beer.

Sure you can remove it,but,you need to recurve the distributor to restore stock performance. With EGR removed,ignition timing will be overadvanced under cruise conditions(when the egr operates) because of incresed cylinder filling and the resulting higher cylinder pressures. If you back off the base timing to compensate,you will lose performance under non cruise conditions(anything above about 1/3 throttle) 2nd minor issue is the increase in engine pumping losses which will decrease MPG slightly. Think of the engine as an air pump.It takes more energy to pump more air.Any air previously displaced by egr flow now needs energy to be pumped through the engine. An electric fan is a good analogy. Restrict airflow by putting a piece of carboard near the fan and you can hear the fan speed up.

# stamped into the disty housing would make this easy. Probably 22100 AA053(early) or AA440(late) SPI distys will not have a vacuum advance. 87 SPIs used 2 different distys. 87s built up to dec 86 use the clip type cap.Build date is in the door jamb. If it is SPI,you have the early style 22100 AA053 disty and require a 22162 AA020 cap and a 22157 AA000 rotor (or the aftermarket equivelents) If it is eating caps quickly,I would be looking at disty shaft endplay and sideplay

You need EGR even more at sea level than you do at higher altitude. Silly idea.

Measure voltage at the pump. Good voltage(and ground)at the pump eliminates fusible link,relay and ignition switch problems from the fuel delivery issue. If it really is worse w/less fuel,perhaps you have a pinhole in the suction line inside the tank. A fuel pressre check would be great. My money is on a bad pump.

Glad to hear you got her going fairly easily. I really like mine too.

I had a 4 speed DR that would not shift into 4wd. It had been in 2wd so long the selector shaft had seized. IIRC,solution was to tap the shaft w/a hammer after some minor disassembly.Fine afterwards.

1-No 2-No 3-Car should restart right away even if the fuel pump is suddenly completely dead. Carb should still be full of fuel. What is the fuel level on the carby sight glass?

Looks like the CVT has a conventional park pawl unlike what the dealer was saying. See post 13 http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/39133-blown-transmission-drive-shaft-axel-2.html Parking w/o the park brake set was NEVER acceptible in ANY car. You would be in a world of legal trouble if your car rolled away and hurt someone.

Overadvanced ignition timing results in too high temps leaving a spot hot enough to ignite the fuel w/o a spark. You create an unintentional glow plug.

Sounds like a leaky injector and weak pump just like I had. Does it hold fuel pressure overnight? My fuel pressure was slightly high too.Made a weak pump a strange diagnosis. I also suspected the FPR until I saw there was no flow from the return. The lack of highly excessive fuel pressure combined with the lack of flow from the FPR return PROVES it is a weak pump or related problem.

Fuel pressure should be waay higher than spec. if there is no flow from the return side because of a stuck regulator. I think you have a fuel delivery problem,not a FPR problem. My bad pump had OK fuel pressure when checked at idle,but had no flow from the FPR return.Sound familar? Your fuel pressure didn`t vary w/throttle because there never was enough fuel pressure/flow to open the FPR.

Fuel pressure is the first thing to check. Doubt the FPR is stuck,but,anything is possible. I also had no flow from the return line.New pump fixed that. Check voltage and grounding of the pump. Flow rate at the FPR feed line too. FPR diaphragm OK? Got good flow from the tank to the pump?Gas should pour out at a good rate w/the pump inlet is disconnected.

Charge the battery

Uggh-leee

No AC No AC bracket No idlers Your belts will be different. Even the parts book is no good for this one. It advises that Canadian EA-81Ts(presumably AC-less like mine) use "belt set" 41095 7000 It leaves the question of what to use on US ea-81ts unanswered. Wading thru Rockautos listings may be helpful.

My non AC equipped ea-81t uses 2 Gates 13A 0955 belts,if I read it right.

44022 GA140 Head to pipe GA260 for turbo

Check for side play of the distributor shaft. You want almost none. Common fault.

The Fuji Cabin is not a Subaru at all. It is not the great-great Grand father of the Subaru 360. The Fuji Cabin was manufactured by Fuji Motor and Gasuden FMC not Fuji Heavy Industries. Fuji Motor also made motorcycles: FHI was a direct competitor w/thier own bikes. Fuji Motors bought engines from Hodaka and Fuji Heavy Industries among others. Here is the first Subaru A P1500

Fuel filter and/or pump. Try a new filter first.