naru

Put a pipe on the pry bar and apply a ton of force.

These should be helpful. Think I may have posted them previously. Haven`t tried it myself. http://the944.com/afm.htm http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-22.htm http://www.gomog.com/articles/EFIflap.html

Measure voltage at the alt. or remove it for testing at the parts store.

Did your friend drive it? Seems like way too much work based on an uncertain diagnosis. Slipping clutch should be trivial to diagnose.Does the car gain speed in step w/rpm increases or will rpm increase w/o speed gain? I would not touch the rest of the motor w/fixing the leak unless it had problems.

Plugged exhaust,maybe? My own truck revved high and had no power until I gutted the 3rd and last cat.

For 82 they are the same part. 80-81 (cars not brats) are also the same exact part.

LOL You are obviously the one who needs an EGR education. Engine load controls EGR operation,not engine rpm. The EGR is CLOSED above about 1/3 throtlle opening. Intake charge is as full as the throttle allows.There is no power loss, You can`t remove what is not there. EGRs were introduced to control nitrogen oxides.A side benefit was a small INCREASE in engine efficeincy at lower throttle openings thru the reduction of engine pumping losses.The engine does not waste energy pumping air it does not need.Effectively,a low throttle displacement decrease, A good analogy is the way an electric fan speeds up when you restrict the airflow with some carboard, Yup,they will stiill run w/EGR removed. If you want to retain OPTIMUM timing,you need to recurve.By removing EGR,you have increased cylinder pressures thru the EGR operating range.Timing will now be overadvanced thru that range.Attempts to correct by retarding base timing sacrifices high rpm performance. Been there.done that. Your ej22 has EGR,just no valve. Engines like your ej22 have internal EGR. They use cam timing and head design to control exhaust gas recirculaion

"desmogged the feedback carb" This sounds shakey. Test compression.

What is the fuel pressure? It should change significantly w/removing FPR vacuum.Low engine vacuum from the cams may be a factor. I would check fuel pump volume at 35 psi. Recently my car had somewhat similar issues.Fuel pressure at idle was OK,but,volume was terrible.Tricky to diagnose until I removed the return line. An Airtex 8312 fixed that problem. I would check pump voltage and grounding. Fuel pressure should not be changing on its own

One of the stub axles on my car has been sloppy for years. Been tempted to tighten the adjuster,but,have not bothered yet. Pretty sure bearing replacement requires major surgery. Seems reasonable that a loose inner CV would increase the wear rate of the bearing. Sloppy stub axles can allow the inner CV to operate at a greater than stock angle thus increasing wear. I would expect this to be a minor effect. Wheel alignment makes no difference except for the ride height adjustment. Higher ride height=greater CV operating angle=more wear.

Restore the PCV to stock. You want constant ventilation thru the crankcase to remove water etc. Cannister is optional. No real downside to removing it other than extra evaporative emissions.

Bad advice. The EGR does not decrese performance whatsoever. It does not allow dirt into the motor. It is inoperative at idle. To retain stock performance w/EGR removed requires modifying the ignition curve(less part throttle advance). Additionly,mileage will go down because of the increase in engine pumping losses. Removing the EGR is for dummies,

Connect the greens under the dash to read codes from the ECU LED. I would check the ignition and fuel pump relays under the passenger seat for power and function, Fuses and fusible links too,

Codes?

I give up. WHY?

Bad ground(s).

It is the Rad cap vacuum valve,not some silly beeper. Why else would removing the cap make a difference? Is it beeping or buzzing?

Internal voltage regulators are not adjustable. Your 80 should have an external reg. The original ones are adjustable,but,you do not want to go there. Alternator probably just needs brushes. $40 is pretty cheap,but,if you are on a tight budget,just replace the brushes.

Domingo van. 1.0-1.2 litre

Half of the reasons are in this video. (not mine)

It is a Hitachi D4R82-03,Subaru 429878710 Both #s are stamped in the housing. Rockauto has a rebuilt one,or you can sub an early ea-82t disty w/small modifications.

Check fuse 13. Bad dash power supply or possibly ground is causing the low voltmeter readings. Sender wire should be 12 volts unplugged. 7 volts w/a 7 ohm resistor subbed for the sender.(full tank reading)

I would not bother replacing fuel lines. I would make sure the return line from the FPR to the tank is open however. Maybe direct it into a gas can for testing purposes. Give the FPR a few love taps.

Drain the tank. Flush w/some clean gas. Consider installing a filter on the suction side of the pump.