naru

Check those memory banks. 84 FSM HAS EA-81T wiring diagram,trouble codes,ECU pinout etc. It is all I use for mine.

3 weeks? Your dealership mechanics are total IDIOTS or they just don`t care. Probably both. I`d get my car out of there. What is the name of the dealership? Buy a $10 multimeter and diagnose it yourself. All the dash lights on is a classic sign of alternator diode failure. The resulting AC voltage lights the lamps. Your car was originaly equipped w/an electromechanical voltage reg. Difficult to see how this would be damaged by AC from the alt.,but,I suppose it is possible. Aftermarket reg. might be solid state. AC may well damage this. Check for AC voltage at the alternator output w/electrical system loaded,engine revved if you can start the car. Should be near zero. (you will likely be able to start the car by hotwiring the fuel pump) Have a look at the fusible links too. They are wire like fuses near the battery.

The electrical supplement does not hold any "secrets". It holds hardly any useful information at all. You want an 84 FSM.

Resistance measurements with semiconducters(like the ECU) in the circuit are useless. Unplug the ECU and measure at the connector.

MANY times. More than one leaker or intake valve on the leaker is closed thereby "fllooding" the intake manifold. Put a pressure gauge on it for proof. Spark plug from my own recent leaky injector looked the same as the others.

Leaky injector.

Incomplete one here: http://jdfinley.com/file-downloads/ Looks like you need a fusebox from another car. What else do you need?

The rpm stuff does make it sound EGRsh. Like it opens too far,but,closes properly.

Looks that way. Slow burning end gases from a very lean mixture can indeed give intake backfires. Fuel pump and voltage supply to and grounding of same. Pressure reg. too. 20-24psi

Does the high rpm power surge coincide w/a sudden timing increase? Does the O2 sensor signal change significantly at the surge point? RPM is important for the ECU timing calculation. Intermittently plugged exhaust sounds promising. Vacuum gauge won`t always catch it.Please don`t ask how I know. Might be worth tapping in a pressure gauge ahead of the cat(or remove the O2) at this point.

10-12 psi cranking is too low.

Seems to me that an inaccurate cam or crank sensor would have to result in inaccurate timing. Have another motor to compare timing? Might be normal.

Inspect the cylinder bores for corrosion or other damage. Pick the one w/best bores and least amount of wear in the top 1/4 inch of ring travel.Normally it is easy to feel on higher mileage engines. It will be the one with the least amount of carbon on the pistons,IME. Choice would be easier if the motor was more complete. I`ve had good results at the junkyard by removing a head(not subes) and inspecting the colour of the exhaust valves. Lighter colour=higher compression The ones w/darker exhaust valves always have more wear at the top of the cylinders. Checking the PCV intake in the air cleaner for signs of oil from excessive blowby tells a lot too. Forget about a bore gauge. I have a Snap-On dial bore gauge.Can`t remember the last time I used it.They don`t work well to measure wear at the extreme top of the bore where most wear is.

Return line from the pressure reg back to the tank might be leaking, Look under the rear. That big of a leak will be easy to spot(and dangerous). Faulty fuel level sender perhaps? Thermostat may be stuck open or gauge faulty. How is the heat?

I agree with the sentiment,but,not the math. Voltage drop on a 12-14v system with 5 ohms is 12-14v, not .2. Voltage drop on a 12-14v system with 5000000 ohms is 12-14v too. Voltage drop across any individual circuit element depends on how much other resistance is in the circuit, For a 12 volt system to have a 0.2 volt drop across a 5 ohm resistance requires that 5 ohms to be in series with another 300 ohms. V=IR will carry you far. Subaru wants 10 ohms or less on the MAF and ECU to body grounds.

O2 sensor is telling you your lean. Since it is responsive,it is functional. Ohmmeter readings on a powered circuit are nearly meaningless. Try a voltage drop test instead w/the MAF plugged in. Put the 2nd lead on battery negative or an ECU ground. Should be a steady 0.00 volts in a perfect world.

The fact that it clears up w/a good rev very strongly suggests fouled plugs.Fuel or coolant. What does the O2 sensor say w/it is running poorly? Reused the same injectors? I would put a pressure gauge on it to see if an injector or two is leaking while it sits.Running symptoms sound like they fit. Found a leaky one last week on mine. Don`t get too hung up on the "it has to be something common to all" thing.

I`ve run mismatched (hotter) plugs to combat oil fouling more times than I care to recall. Not sure what you mean by arc damage,but,dielectric grease won`t help. Sounds more like detonation damage brought on by compression increasing deposits in the engine.

This pretty much proves you are suffering from a lean misfire. (ECU enriches the mixture w/MAF unplugged) What does the O2 sensor have to say? Could be bad MAF,injector,metered air leak,vacuum leak or low fuel pressure. I`m leaning toward a bad MAF or metered air leak,but,I would check fuel pressure early in the diagnosis. An engine leak down test w/attention paid to the exhaust might be interesting.

Definetly adjust the rears,but,no amount of rear brake adjustment will keep the pedal from changing height between strokes. You need a MC. Forget about rebuilding them.Waste of time and money. Durability is very questionable. Been there,done that many times when I was young and foolish. Don`t bother w/factory rebuilds either.They are just as bad,IME. MCs are one of the few car parts that you want NEW not "rebuilt".

Voltage regulator is in a slow cycling feedback loop because the alternator cannot maintain system voltage at lowish rpms w/o maximium field current. Time for new brushes or less driving lights. Absence of AC voltage coming from the alternator does not mean the regulator is good. Exact reason for slowness of the cycle is interesting,but,very likely irrelevant. ....Or maybe not.

Big waste of money unless name dropping is a big part of your game,IMO. My $10 meters do the same thing for $500 less.

Your ECM will be fine. All ea-81t ECMs are for autos. There is nothing to wire around.ECM does not care what gear you are in or about the kickdown solenoid. It does not even care whether you are in gear or not. I`m no fan of automatics in general,but, I`ve grown to like the ea-81t/auto combo for stop and go around town driving. There are definite advantages to having a torque convertor at the stop lights.LOL Can I have your old trans?

Looks like a good number. HEATER CONTROL VALVE Make: Subaru | Part#: 772013041List Price: $116.88 Your Price: $84.16 Core Price: $0.00

Yes it does.