naru

Use logic. The solenoid port that is blocked when the solenoid is unpowered goes to the manifold and AT. The solenoid port that is vented when the solenoid is unpowered goes to the puge valve on the cannister.

BS-You should resist commenting when you do not know what you are talking about. An 82 uses the same voltage regulator as your non XT EA82s. This is not rocket science.

What do you mean?

Unlikely. Waste of time anyhow. The white/red wire goes to battery positive thru the fuse,charge bulb,ignition switch and fusible link. The only resistance between the plug and battery positive should be the bulb

At this point,I would remove the small plug and jumper 12 volts to both terminals. Put a jumper cable berween the alternator case and battery negative too. If the alternator still does not charge,it is NFG. (give it some rpms-idle speed is insufficent)

Got power at the coil?

Charge light still work? Alternator won`t get any intial field current if the bulb blew. FYI,FSM charging system schematics are nearly useless.

Ignition switch connector is at or near the switch under the steering column plastic. Do the voltage tests in numerical order. If one is significantly less than battery voltage,you have just gone past the problem area. It is probably that bad looking fusible link.

Negative lead to battery negative. All measurements while trying to start Positive to: 1 Battery positive 2 Battery side of fusible link(can`t remember which offhand,do all 3) 3 Car side of fusible link 4Ignition switch power input by backprobing the connector 5Ignition switch starter output by backprobing the connector(use the meter to deduce which is which) These should pinpoint the problem. I`ve had trouble w/a poor connection where the positive wire enters the fusible link box.

Don`t know what you mean by "slipping". Weber choke housings are easy enough to get. Put a stronger return spring on it until you clean up the linkage. SPFI conversion is overkill to fix these minor problems. FYI,you need to press the throttle to the floor once before starting to set the choke.

Kill switch should be irrelavent.

In that case,the problem will be poor connections at the small wire that goes from battery positive to the fusible link box,poor connections inside the box or at the ignition switch connector(they overheat and melt). A bad ignition switch could do the same. Some voltage measuments at various points would be very helpful.

It is not the starter. Dash lights going out means means you have bad conections or a dead battery as long as the motor is not seized.

A 32/36 DGV series Weber would be a better choice because of the progressive throttle linkage,readily avaiable adapters, and comparitively small venturis. That said,if you already have one,I think you could make it work OK. Big advantage of the IDF are the changable venturis.Much more tunable. Factory EA81 rally cars ran twin IDFs (pretty sure) mounted directly on the heads. There is a photo around here somewhere Good luck

the aav is disconnected.

WOW! Nice machine. Nice work. Nice shop. You are obviously having too much fun. Thanks for the pics.Looking forward to seeing some more in the future

I`m sure I am not the only one that would like to see a photo or two of your airboat.

I have trouble following this. I cannot tell where you have the leads. If the light stays dark w/connected between coil - and battery - with the key on you have no power.

Runs smooth up to 4k? I`d say plugged exhaust. Try it w/the downpipe loosened off or put a pressure gauge in the O2 sensor hole. Your car should easily rev to 4k in neutral even with a SEIZED turbo.

Put your test light between coil - and battery - when cranking. No light = no power or an open coil Steady light = bad module or wires Pulsing light= OK I would check for actual spark while cranking too. Not completely sure what the Stratus runs for ignition,but the stock system has NO BALLAST RESISTOR. Do you have dual ignition?

Somebody needs to check continuity of the white wire between the idle control and pin 45 of the ECU before condemning the ECU. Wire turns to GR on the ECU side of the connector. The 10-11 volt dilemma is pure bullshit. An inoperable EGR will lead to detonation at cruising speed. I have a solenoid if needed.

PM sent

You buy a longer tap. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M2-to-M14-Long-Extended-Shank-Metric-HSS-Right-Hand-Thread-Tap-select-size-/282113420352

Below the turbo and shields on the rear side. Might have to look from the bottom to actually see it. Changed mine once.No big drama.

The one w/the black/white connector is the O2 sensor. Mine has black wires on both sides.