naru

7720 13041

Just one furthur thought.... Preload on the spring controls when the advance starts so the installed length of the spring needs to stay the same.I`m guessing the diaphragms have arms of the same length,but,you should check.

Since similar looking hitachi vacuum advances have diaphragms with identical surface areas,the settings are completely determined by the spring and sleeve which are VERY easily swapped to a unruptured junkyard unit. You will spend less that way. 12 and 25 degrees sounds suspiciously like the difference between distributor and crankshaft degrees.Too early in the morning to be sure of that.

+1 Should have done it sooner.

25 degrees? Really? what year is that? 84s have 12 degrees. Have you rebuilt one yourself? Where did you get the diaphragm?

Other than fit,you need to be concerned with how much total advance it has. Also how much vacuum it takes to start the advance and how much vacuum it takes for full advance. Subaru used 3 or 4 different vac advances on ea-81s w/hitachis. Looking at a 84 FSM shows that the differences are very minor.I would be surprised if you noticed a difference. I have a good one from an 83 you could have cheap. Unfortunately,it has no #s for a positive ID. Upon examination,it appears total advance is controlled by the sleeve under the spring.Advance rate is controlled by the spring.Looks to be a trivial matter to swap the spring and sleeve from one Hitachi vacuum advance to another similar one.(compress the spring and slide the retainer off the shaft) I would get another similar looking Hitachi vac advance(new like in your links or used) and swap your existing spring and sleeve onto it and call it done. Another option is a used one from http://car-part.com/ . 84s should be the same as your 85.Compare dizzy numbers. I bought a complete ea-82 turbo dizzy in order to get an ea-81 turbo vac advance.Spare ignition module was a bonus. Complete dizzy is probably only a few more bucks.

Stop leak is bad ************. Just finished unplugging a toyota 3.4 engine oil cooler that was completely blocked up with that crap on the coolant side.Major headache. Epoxy is your friend.

maybe a vacuum leak somewhere I know a lot of 90s Fords(probably many others too) had 2 different spark plugs on the same engine.Difference was location of the platinum. I just installed a set of Denso double platinum plugs (platinum on both electrodes) on an 99 exploder. I am sure the engineers would not have specified platinum plugs if cheaper plain copper plugs were equally good or better.

79s take fuel pump and choke power directly from the voltage regulator. How is the charge voltage?

Bad common ground.

Since the hydrogen generator part of the circuit is protected by a 35 amp fuse,it must have a rather large current draw. The diodes can only handle so much. Fuse only limits current to the circuits it feeds,not the total current draw on the alt. Hydrogen generator probably IS responsible.I`d ditch that. I expect the flickering to subside w/the repairs mentioned.

Under the fusebox.

1-Yes 2-Too much current. Usually from aftermarket accessories,but,a short somewhere could do the same. An intermittent output connection could certainly cause diode damaging current/voltage spikes. Stock alternator diodes seem to be on the weak side. I would repair the alt. and poor connection.Very likely all that is necessary.

Yes,but,not really practical. New alt. for the win.

Yes. 99.5% Check for AC w/a voltmeter.

They did not test it very well. You have a bad alternator diode.Hydrogen didn`t do it. Confirm the bad diode by measuring AC voltage at the alternator output w/headlights.blower fan etc. on,engine running @ 2500. Should be under 0.5 volts AC. Yours will be higher.

Your logic totally escapes me. The ignition relay has nothing to do w/the starter contacts.It doesn`t have very much to do w/the ignition either.

I`d say sticky relay,if it had not already been replaced. Did you do the ignition relay too?It needs to be non-sticky as well. I would use a voltmeter to check for power and ECU ground signal at the fuel pump relay COIL next time it flakes out.(ECU side of coil will drop in voltage) Similarly for the ignition relay coil power/ground. Might as well take a look for dirty relay contacts by comparing relay input/output voltages while you are there.(voltmeter across the closed contacts works too,should be 0 volts) Checking pump power/ground is probably a good idea too.

Usually,this means the distributor bushings are worn and the shaft is flopping around. Take the cap off and see if you can wiggle the shaft around.

Easy enough to inspect the teeth with the starter removed. I had trouble w/the wire between the battery and the fusible link box on my 84 turbo. What does the multimeter say this time?

The chart refers to stock jetting on engines of widely varying unspecified displacements,so it is of limited usefulness. The 32/36 DGV 22680.005 in the chart(same venturies as yours) is for a 1.6 litre ford so those settings should be close at least for sea level.

Since your venturies are the same size (26 and 27) as the commonly used DGVs,known 4500 ' ea-71 DGV jetting should work. I find the Solex selection manual a good carb resource. http://www.scribd.com/doc/2357331/Solex-Selection-and-Tuning-of-Carburettor Jet selection tips on page 22. Even better than the Weber tuning manual. Principals are the same,brand is different. (Some pretranslation: choke tube = venturi)

I disagree. The "factory" choke pull off spec varies according to application on stock Weber 2 barrels supplied as original equipment. Not surprising it needs to be tweaked a little for a custom application. I seriously doubt all those aftermarket DGEV kits come w/different choke pull off settings. Perhaps the OP could measure his new choke gap more accurately w/a drill bit? I`m sure this info would be useful to others.

I made a very similar 6 pin one for an Alfa Romeo GTV6 rear bearing by grinding down a 3/4 inch drive socket of suitable diameter.Took an hour or two.Turned out very nice.Strong too,had to impact it for several minutes to get the retainer to move. For the subaru,I just used a punch.

Check the fuel level in the carb sight glass.(may require a mirror) Check for spark right after it quits.