naru

Flashing the cash is his pressure tactic.Even more effective if the wife is there. NOW or NEVER,buddy. I`ve got other cars to look at. He is not into protracted multi day negotiations.

All the codes are still there? If the codes are still there,the faults are still there. O2 won`t come alive until it is good and warm.

The ea82 manual here should help. http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx That many codes at once suggests a wiring problem to me. Maybe a connector or ground. I`d consider measuring the ECT resistance at the ECU plug while moving things around. Erase the codes and see what comes back too. Hard hot starts may be related to code 51.The ECU doesn`t know it is supposed to be in start mode.

IMO,an oral/texted contract is legally binding in all juristictions,it is just not easily enforcible. Deposits are a greyer area. Legally speaking,I think it boils down to the fact that the seller has no right to keep the deposit regardless of what happens. Friend of mine has an interesting cash car buying strategy. He fills a paper bag with 20-30% of the asking price in crumpled up small bills. If he likes the car,he will pull out the cash and make sure the seller has a good look at the big wad. Might not work to buy the docs car,but,he says it works more often than it doesn`t. BTW,"Judge" Judy is not a judge at all.She is a court appointed arbitrator that both parties have agreed to have.

Pretty sure new coil,bracket.ignitor assys. are still available from the dealer for a tidy sum. Good news is that they are widely available used, dirt cheap, from any late 80s early 90s subaru at the wrecker. If it looks right,its right.

No This should help.See pages 11-12. http://escort.mk3.pagesperso-orange.fr/lib/haynes/0686-04a.pdf Looks like there is a screw adjustment under the plug. Could not tell by merely looking at mine. Good luck.

Like I said,take the choke cover OFF.and it will be self explanitory.

If you take the choke cover off,you will see what is going on re adjustment. If richening by pressing the gas doesn`t help,then richening by adjusting the pull off is unlikely to help either.Maybe it needs to be leaner.Specs I`ve seen go between .12-.18 for different versions.

The choke pull off is a vacuum diaphram located next to the choke coil. It opens the choke a certain amount once the motor starts. Don`t recall the correct spec offhand,but,1/8" opening sounds ballpark. You can move the choke by hand w/the air cleaner off/engine freshly cold started to see if it needs more/less choke. IIRC,Weber choke pull off is adjusted by bending a tang inside the choke cover. Solution to your starting problem may be as simple as pumping the gas once or twice before starting.I have 2 electric choke equipped non subes that require this.Colder weather needs an extra pump or 12. Could simply be the fast idle screw is set too low as well.1500 seems too low to me.I`d go 2000. Low speed idle screw setting will have no effect on cold starts.1000 is a little high though. Water chokes resist hot start flooding better.Easy to swap.

How about the choke pull-off?

Why only at freeway speeds?

85 mph in 5th gear= very high fuel demand problem disappeared at 65 mph(less fuel required) !`d check the fuel filter/pressure first

Why only at freeway speeds?

Pretty sure it is remotely located at the RH shock tower.

Fuel filter

By my reckoning,-3 psi = about 6 inches hg of vacuum. Normal is in the 15-20 range. Reading will be affected by misfire for ANY reason,but,this indicates a vacuum leak to me,if the reading is accurate.

No.just tee a temporary gauge in to read the vacuum. How much vacuum does your boost gauge read at idle? Check the coolant temperature sender and its connection.They like to corrode. See if you can isolate the miss by removing plug or injector wires one at a time. The wiring thing is specific to XTs,I think.You`ll have to search for that one. O2 sensor voltage should oscillate above and below 0.5volts when warm.Use a digital meter. What happens if you unplug the MAF? I would inspect spark plugs/wires.

Sounds like a valve body problem if the cable is OK/adjusted.

Poor idle? Installing a vacuum gauge on the manifold would likely be a lot more informative and less labour intensive. I would have a look at the o2 sensor voltage as well. Does idle improve when mixture is enriched w/propane or the return line is pinched? When mixture is leaned w/a controlled vac. leak? Ignition system inspection and compression test may be in order. Could be dirty MAF. Consider the infamous poorly crimped injector? wiring cnnection in the rocker panel too.

http://www.indysworld.com/80s/fun/projectrudy/sheet5a.jpg http://www.indysworld.com/80s/fun/projectrudy/sheet8a.jpg http://www.indysworld.com/80s/fun/projectrudy/rudy.html

9.5 to 1 compression 110PS (HP) @ 6000 rpm 15 kg/m torque at 4000 rpm From:http://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E3%82%B9%E3%83%90%E3%83%AB%E3%83%BBEA%E5%9E%8B%E3%82%A8%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B8%E3%83%B3#.E4.BB.98.E5.8A.A0.E8.AB.B8.E5.85.83_2

Nice. What is it going into?

It is a seperate thermostat for the intake. I`d leave it on.

I would check the speed sensor by plugging a digital tach into the YR wire at check connector IV (4 pin-pink) under the dash. I bet it goes wonky above 50 mph. Voltmeter may even suffice.Should be 0-5 volt pulses.

IIRC,feedback models have a speed sensor.Probably in the dash.