naru

NO.They are basicly unrelated. The voltmeter drops w/signals because the dash and signals share the same power and ground paths.Poor(high resistance) connections in either cause the votage to drop w/the current increases. Easiest way to find the "problem" is to put a voltmeter around suspect circuitry and check for voltage drops under high load. IIRC,I measured 0.5 volt drop across the ignition switch and another 0.5 volt drop to the main ground under the fusebox. Haven`t done any "fixes".Was thinking about adding a large ground wire from the battery to the dash ground and replacing the ignition switch. Doubt there is anything wrong w/your fuel pump. It doesn`t even need to run in order to start the car(unlike fuel injection)

If the gauge reads full w/the sender @ 13 ohms,then either the gauge is bad,has poor connections, or wiring to the sender has high resistance.My money is on a bad wire connection. I would measure resistance of(or check for a voltage drop on)the sender wire between the round meter plug behind the dash and the sender. Same for ground. 10 turn potentiometers make dialing up exactly the right resistance a breeze. Good luck.

It is never a good idea to ground a sender wire w/o adding at least a little resistance to limit the current.Bad consequences,sometimes.

Test it before wasting your time removing parts. Unplug the sender and put a 95 ohm resistor(i use a poteniometer calibrated w/an ohmmeter) between the gauge wire and ground. Should read full. 1/2 tank @ 32.5 ohms empty @ 7 ohms If gauge reads OK,sender is the problem. Careful cleaning w/a pencil eraser has always worked for me.

Looks like the trans output and rear input are not parallel. That will give a vibration. Angles are OK up to a point,but ,you want the trans and rear end parallel.

Normally this means the ignition module is fubared. In your case,it may mean the wire to the disty is bad. I would it for continuity while moving it around.

It is simple arithmetic. 3.7 is 95% of 3.9 so RPM in any gear will be 95% of what you have now. 91% for 3.54.

That is normal.If it did not light on coil -,that would be a problem. You must have had the + wire attached. Now see if the light pulses while you crank(all wires on).

Sounds to me like one of the small coil wires has an internal break. Next time it happens,check for 12V at coil -w/key on to check the supply side. If OK,put a test light on coil -. It should light up and pulse as the engine cranks. No pulses= bad wire to the disty or bad ignition module.

Ummm.... "more inches of travel per turn of the engine" is the same thing as "more turns of the wheels per turn of the engine." A 10%(say) change in tire circumference affects gearing exactly the same as a 10% change in final drive ratios. Wheel only makes about a 1/4 turn per engine revolution in high gear.(not multiple turns) Larger circumference tires are usually wider and thus have higher rolling resistance resulting in lower gas mileage everything else being equal. According to tests I`ve read,the difference is larger than most people realize. You want skinny rump roast tires for the MPG win.

WRONG That would not affect spark production.

I think you are right.

Could be moisture in the cap. Leky insulation on the high tension leads or a dirty grimy coil top too.

Rebuild your current engine if it is not consuming too much oil or making ugly noises. Sounds like it may only need a head gasket. Pretty hard to warp a subaru head as they are so short. Not a mortal wound anyhow.

"BUT, when mine went out, none of the speeds worked at all."

Get a new alternator. Yours has a bad diode.

83s don`t have ballast resistors so there is no provision for bypassing one like on earlier cars. Coil will see less than charging/battery voltage every time the ignition module completes the circuit w/the engine turning.

Got power at the fan? At the relay input? Output? Relay click? Fan work hot wired? Fan ground OK? Both fuses 6&7 need to be OK.

Of course,but,it seems a little silly to not at least freshen up the valves/seats and check the guide wear.

You are so wrong again. Where do you get this stuff ?

holley r7760 version of a 5200 ? http://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumber.asp?Number=R7760

Non stock. Holley 5200,I think. I see an ID tag w/#s in the 2nd photo.

Broken spring? Don`t drive until you have found the problem. A sudden change of steering wheel position is serious shyte.

Cleaned the MAF yet? Try unplugging it. Symptoms sound like low speed leaness to me. I would check the O2 sensor output w/a scanner or voltmeter. Manifold vacuum too. Also carefully inspect the hoses between the MAF and the throttle body for cracks,looseness or leaks.A leak here won`t show on the vacuum gauge but will mess up the low speed mixture.May well reveal itself thru low O2 sensor voltage. I see this scenario a lot on various cars.Mazda Tribute last week.

Bad alternator diode. Confirm by verifying AC voltage is present at alt. output.