naru

This sounds very similar to a problem I had w/an 84. Pouring cold water over the underhood temp sensor near the egr was a temporary fix. Real problem was an upstream vacuum leak.

An intake backfire ignited by the slow burning "end gases" from an overly lean mixture,perhaps. I would check the accellerator pump,carb sight glass(fuel level),timing-cap-wires-etc,and then the items Gloyale mentioned.

I think you called it. Faulty inner CVs will do exactly that.

Black is a noise suppression capacitor(the cylinder). The inline fuse on a yellow does not sound stock,but,I could be wrong. The 3 yellows are tach,coil ground thru the module and ignition signal to the fuel pump control unit or ECU(shielded gray for ECU cars),IIRC.

Coil negative should be 12 Volts just like the positive. This suggests an ignition module problem to me. Take the wires off coil - and remeasure.Key on,engine stopped.

If you consider this a failure(it is not),at least be observant enough to see that it is a "failure" from MOOG,not Rockauto.They are both MOOG 9081s. MOOG buys them from whoever and reboxes them.

Your picture is of a 4wd drum,hence the confusion. Those big torques will kill 2wd bearings in very short order. For 2wds,snug the nut while spinning the wheel. Back off until you can feel a little bit of play.

You are wrong. Most of the world has never heard of a station wagon.They call them "estates". The $13 listing IS for regular new Moog ball joints. They fit US and Canadian legacys from 09/94 up. They fit US and Canadian legacy wagons (estates) from 09/94 up. The listing is pretty clear. Just because they fit a late 94 doesn`t mean they were manufactured in 94.LOL. The $30 one is thier up market "problem solver". Estates (wagons) are not mentioned in this case because they fit all legacys from 09/94 up.

Bad advice,IMO. OEM has never been a good option for any make or model pump I`ve replaced.(quite a few) OEMs can be 10 times the price for the same part. A lot of times,aftermarket pumps ARE OEM. I buy the cheapest.Dirt cheap ebay ones if time allows. Never had to replace one ever,never mind every 1-2 years. I would never install a used electric pump unless there was not another option. Always replace the filter sock on in-tank models and change the main filter regularly to ensure the pump brushes don`t have to conduct excessive current pushing fuel through a plugged filter for a happy pump. I know nothing about Autozone parts. I disagree with the notion that "you get what you pay for". Like any good "lie",there IS a kernal of truth at the centre,of course. I see the EXACT same parts being sold for wildly different prices all the time.

Bad advice,IMO. OEM has never been a good option for any make or model pump I`ve replaced.(quite a few) OEMs can be 10 times the price for the same part. A lot of times,aftermarket pumps ARE OEM. I buy the cheapest.Dirt cheap ebay ones if time allows. Never had to replace one ever,never mind every 1-2 years. I would never install a used electric pump unless there was not another option. Always replace the filter sock on in-tank models and change the main filter regularly to ensure the pump brushes don`t have to conduct excessive current pushing fuel through a plugged filter for a happy pump. I know nothing about Autozone parts. I disagree with the notion that "you get what you pay for". Like any good "lie",there IS a kernal of truth at the centre,of course. I see the EXACT same parts being sold for wildly different prices all the time. FYI,the hammer trick is a one man operation if you jumper the fuel pump relay. Saved many a towing fee that way.

My BMW 2002 used to have this problem regularly when it was parked for any length of time in a coastal enviroment. Solution was to start it up in gear w/one wheel in the air(no posi) and slam on the brakes w/the clutch pedal depressed.Worked every time.

http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Tandem-Master-Cylinders.htm Cup on piston #2 is leaking. No leak into the booster. No external leak. Pretty common.

Internal leak.

"Estate" = stationwagon Send them more cash if that makes you feel better.

master cylinder

No code.Knock away.

Excess EGR flow will certainly cause a misfire,but,not from leaness. The resulting exhaust gases will contain more O2 than normal and the not so smart computer will see this as a lean mixture. I strongly suspect the shudder is indeed the knock control computer pulling timing. Pretty sure I said so a few thousand posts back. I experienced a similar shudder under hard acceleration w/my ea-81t until switching to 94 octane.Checking this on the ea-81t is as easy as plugging a voltmeter into a check connector under the dash and monitoring the phase correction signal voltage.Same applies for the flapper MAF ea-82ts. (not sure about the check connectors on ea-82s,but,it is easy enough to tap into the wire). I haven`t bothered doing it yet on my car because I consider the lack of studder w/94 octance proof enough. One day w/I`m bored,I`ll check it for giggles.

You are right. The EGR doesn`t affect the air fuel ratio by leaning it out. EGR related MPG gains are the result of a reduction in engine pumping loss. http://www.mechadyne-int.com/vva-reference/other-part-load-strategies Heavy duty version: http://www.scipio.ro/documents/96801/6bf60a29-c311-4dea-a8a7-77c71a136954 (internal EGR but same principle)

Any ea-81 engine w/o a Carter/Weber. 1980 up.

You need to swap to a hitachi intake manifold.

"replaced with a used one that's putting out 18V" TOO MANY VOLTS

Nothing to do w/number of maching operations but rather how much material has been removed. That is why they have minimium thickness specs. I see no mention of previous machining. Would not reccomend it,but,I`ve run over machined rotors w/no ill effect.

Yes,as long as it is still thick enough. Do both front discs.

Machining is pretty cheap. My guy charges $12. YMMV, but not too much.

Engine is waay lean for some reason.Probably a vacuum leak.Put a vacuum gauge on it. Could be fuel starvation too.Check the fuel level in the carby sight glass.