naru

Ignition module in the new distributor is fried. Take it back and demand another.Be indignant. Check the charging voltage imediately after start up w/the new disty in case it is excessive. Consider bench testing the alternator first.

warped disc Lube the caliper while you are in there.

Feel for compression at the plug hole as the engine is rotated.Next TDC is compression stroke TDC.Can be tricky sometimes. I prefer to watch the intake valve close but that means having the valve cover off. Not sure about the sprocket holes.

Blacks to positive. Yellows and a gray to negative. Tach move while cranking? Test light on coil negative flash while cranking? Stock coil?

1.Nah 2.Not sure,but,I think they are different ratios.Check the sticker on the cover if it is still there. 3.I would check for play in the LH wheel bearings. Sounds like one of them is loose enough to allow the shoes/pads to contact the drum/rotor when highly loaded in a RH turn. Almost certainly the rear since it has extra brake dust,noise and vibration. As rear bearing repair requires axle removal as a preliminary step,you will be able to rotate the wheel and axle bearings independently before being completely commited to the repair.

There is no good reason to delete the EGR. There are good reasons to keep it. Cannister can be canned. Plug the purge line. Not sure if the plugged return line w/be problematic. I`d probably unplug it.

Incline suggests a fuel level problem. No need to guess about flooding or starvation. Next time it acts up,pull over,shut off quickly and check the fuel level in the carby sight glass(wish all carbs had those). Might need a mirror. That will tell you whether the carb is flooding or starving.

Light is unrelated to the vac lines. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96306

That is a bad idea. You stand a good chance of killing the O2 sensor by spraying silicone into the intake. I`d check compression on the "bouncy" motor.

Best plan would be to leave well enough alone. Things sound about right. If you are concerned about the temporary 500 rpm idle and have an urge to tinker,I suppose you could adjust the choke housing a little richer so that the fast idle stays engaged a little longer.

That is curious. 84s don`t have transistors on the coil bracket. Fuel pump isn't on the same circuit as the coil. Check fuse. Look for voltage at the pump connector w/cranking.

84 DLs were single range. I thought digital dashes were on anything w/GL-10 trim.

No current is flowing thru the module or coil. No current = no spark.

First question.Got spark? Item in question is the choke heater. Should not be powered from the coil.Might draw too much current and prevent proper spark. Check for spark after disconnecting.

If the test light lights up on coil negative but doesn`t flash when cranking,you can be pretty sure the ignition module in the disty has failed. Rebuilt disty is the simpliest fix. No ignition pulses = no fuel pump

Idle stop solenoid powered up and working?

It is a small thermostat that controls coolant flow from the base of the carb in a parallel section of the bypass system.

Mounting screw(s) fell out.

It lowers cruising speed combustion temps because the exhaust gas is made up of a large percentage of water. Water has a higher "specific heat" than most other things. That means it absorbs more heat than most other things before the temp goes up. Removing the EGR w/o modifying the ignition curve will adversely affect ignition timing. EGR also decreases engine pumping losses. Subaru did not do away w/it on newer models. Some models have "internal EGR" that does the same thing w/valve timing and head design(no egr valve).

Since the accelerator pump is strong,suspect ignition. I would change plugs,measure plugwire resistance and inspect the cap and rotor.

As much as I would like to take the glory,I was not the first to point out that the alternator was backfeeding the coil. Since removing charge light fuse#12(it is between the alt. and the charge light after all) had no effect I`m having serious doubts about that part of the theory. I think the coil was being backfed somewhere else. Might be able to find it by unplugging fuses etc. but who cares? Elegant solution in the end.

There are 2 senders. Engine doesn`t care about the gauge one. Engine temp sender has 2 wires.

CTS=coolant temperature sender. 2. This is usually a leaky injector. 3.Hesitation on accel is most often ignition.Check wires cap rotor etc. 4.Could be many things,over/under fueling,vacuum leak,loose wire.... Seeing how #2 suggests a leaky injector maybe said injector decided to be very leaky for a moment.

ABS control module. Ohmmeter will likely show low resistance between the power input and ground Disconnecting each wheel sensor is a waste of time.

This is almost certainly a leaky injector flooding the engine. Might want to check the CTS too. I`m having trouble understanding what the original symptoms are. Hesitation on accel? Stalling? Shudder? All of the above? Year? Mods?