naru

Forget belt dressing and WD40.They are junk. Check belt tension first. Determine whether the noise is coming from the accessory belt(s) by either running the motor w/them removed(check the idlers for rough bearings while the belt is off) or rubbing a little hand soap on them. If the squeal disappears after soap application,you can be certain that belt is the squealer. Also check for a wobbley crankshaft pulley. Just finished repairing a non-sube w/belt squeal due to a bad crank pulley. If it remains noisy,problem might be the timing belt idlers.

Can`t be anything else. Pulling the fuse may or may not work,The contradictory and incomplete Subaru Factory wiring diagrams are not clear on the exact location of the fuse.It may be on the "wrong" side of the bulb. Unplugging the round connector(s) from the gauge cluster WILL work. Opening the light gauge charge light wire between the alt. and the dash will work too. If motor now stops ,diode is shorted.

Am I talking to myself? Pull fuse 12.

It is not grounds. It is not the VR(circuit in yours is different than early cars w/external electromechanical VRs) It is not the alternator. You have a shorted diode in series w/the charge light in the gauge cluster. Voltage is backfeeding thru the charge light to the ignition coil. Pull fuse #12? (charge light).Car will stop.

That sounds less than ideal. Your motor will take longer than normal to warm up. Same thing as having the thermostat stuck open all the time. It DOES work. It is my understanding that the factory kit returns coolant to the housing where the temp sender resides as described by the OP.

Could be a bad diode in the gauge cluster. See what happens when you unplug it.

That is incorrect. There is no connection to the out hose. Turbo water returns thru the RH head to the thermostat housing radiator/bypass. It did occur to me that flow may be reversed.I doubt it. It would be interesting to verify the direction of coolant flow w/some clear hose or such.Thermostat opened/closed.heater valve open/closed. I can`t be bothered.It works.

There is more than one way to route the water lines. I added a T to the upper coolant line going to the water valve for one. Other one connects to the drain on the front bottom of the RH head.Cable clamps on the valve cover bolts guide the hose.I improvised a sheet metal heat shield for the line near the turbo.I used thick style reinforced coolant hose.Plan to swap to silicone and replace the rock hard oil drain next time the turbo comes off. Surpisingly,high temp silicone seems to work just as well as the slightly pricey gaskets if carefuly applied. Been working for years now. I may have an extra fitting and banjo bolt if you are unable to locate one. I always thought the water cooled EA-81T turbos supplied during the recall were identical to the 1985 EA-82T VF2 turbos. Are you saying that you have a watercooled VF1 with the smaller wheels? Regardless,an EA-82 turbo works well on an EA-81T. I suppose it could be considered an upgrade Slightly slower to spool,better flow once it gets going. I would not change the original unless it is fubared. My advice for a happy life w/the EA-81T: Stock boost Synthetic oil Full 2 minute warm up before driving,take it easy until warm Don`t shut down TOO hot(like right after a full throttle run) Buy the best gas you can(94 octane for me)You don`t want the knock sensor pulling timing back at all.

I would not touch the carb. Suspect that would be a world of hurt for zero gain. I`ve experienced near identical symptoms on an 84. It was related to the underhood temperature switch located on a pedestal on the intake near the egr.Heat soak after the store run opens the vacuum switch. Short term solution was to carry a bottle of water to pour on the switch to cool it down again.Give it a try.Good for diagnosis. Pretty sure you can plug this vacuum line w/o adverse consequences. IIRC,real problem was a vacuum leak upstream of the switch.

Not grounds. You have a high resistance connection at or inside the fusebox.

Download a Haynes manual from one of the bit torrent sites.

Use your compressor to put 100 psi into the spark plug holes w/the engine warm.Bubbles in the rad means headgasket. A pressure gauge hooked to the cooling system may show excessive pressure build up w/the engine running as well.

Why would you want to bastardize a perfectly good motor?(especially when you don`t know what you are doing). Dumb idea.

Never heard of reusing frost plugs.I`m sure new would be best. I`ve never done a subie one.

Try a local big rig shop,an online subaru dealer,or http://www.ebay.com/itm/270931411317?var=570063970111&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

IIRC,there is a frost plug in the head that pops out sometimes.

In situations like this,I use a bicycle pump to pressurize the cooling system to check for leaks. Easiest way is to hook it up to the radiator overflow. I put a slotted washer big enough not to fall into the rad under the rad cap to hold the rad cap valve open to ensure the pressure gauge on the pump reads correctly. Pump it up to about 15 psi(don`t go much higher) and leaks are usually easy to find. You don`t even need the washer and pressure gauge as long as you are careful not to pump too much and overpressurize the system. Teeing the pump into any convienent coolant hose works just as well.

Cheapest/easiest is to repair what you have. How is it misbehaving? AFAIK,Carter-Weber parts are availible from the dealer on an individual basis.I don`t think they ever offered kits. Probably would not require much more than gaskets and a float valve (if that). You can even make gaskets yourself w/a punch set and some determination. I`m almost willing to bet your problem is a vacuum leak between the "throttle body" and float bowl sections.The screws are short and vibrate loose eventually.

Swap IACs.That one sticks.

The ones w/power w/key on go to coil positive.

Check for power at the pump. Seems unlikely a pump would wear out after only a year. IIRC,5 blinks is merely an ID code.Nothing to worry about.

I`ve seen this on other cars w/identical drivetrains. Compression differences seem the most obvious answer. I think a stack-up of production tolerances that affect ignition/valve timing,fuel delivery and compression is the real culprit. Might be worth comparing fuel pressure between the 2,but,I doubt it.

Failure of secondary ignition components,usually. Bad/loose plug/coil wires,open rotor,very bad distributor cap etc.. I`ve seen this several times. Ungrounded high voltage backfeeds into the ignition module,destroying it. The ballast resistor used w/your original points system may not be compatible w/your updated electronic ignition. Coil could be a problem too.It should match the disty.Some coils draw too too much current for some modules. You want to match an 84 Hitachi coil w/an 84 Hitachi distributor.Same for 84 NipponDensos for maximum failure insurance. I would grab the correct one at the junkyard ,just to be sure. Plug/coil wires can be too "good" as well. Stock resistance type wires limit the current on the high voltage side.Replacing them w/non-resistance solid core wires can be problematic. Haven`t personaly seen this failure mode,but,it happens. For some reason,Subaru in thier infinite wisedom gives no ignition wire specs in the 84 FSM.General rule for older cars is usually something like 5k-10k ohms/foot.

Check resistance of the 4 wires between the alternator and the regulator. Check for AC votage at the alternator w/high electrical load at mid rpms. If those are OK,replace the regulator.Try for solid state.

Main dash ground is underneath the fusebox on my 84.I removed the trim panel and 2 fusebox srews for access. Test it by putting your voltmeter between the stud and battery negative w/the lights and blower motor on.Should be next to no voltage.I found up to 0.5V drop and plan to add a direct ground connection for relief. FWIW,I also measured up to 0.6V drop across the ignition switch contacts under heavy load.Darn.Anyone got a new tilt wheel ignition switch?