naru

Swap the wires 180 degrees on the cap.

I make a metal insertion tool by grinding the end of a bolt when the kit only comes w/a plastic one.Good tip on the taps.Certainly lowers the price.

Try 14710AA590 at your local dealer.Go armed w/an online quote.Might be even cheaper. Rockauto is $129.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMP-STANDARD-EGV1114-EGR-Valve-/200717648219?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item2ebbb4415b&vxp=mtr

http://vintagetest.net/chassis/elis81/V2I813010.pdf

+1 Especially longer term.

Sounds like 3 flakey regulators,all w/different failure modes. The OEM reg. was electromechanical w/contact points etc.Replacement ones should be solid state(hopefully).Seems like your replacements might have been old electromechanical regs. w/faulty contacts. OEM electromechanical regs. require periodic adjustment of the air gaps etc.Perhaps your original one would work after adjustment. I`d prefer a solid state version though. I see no reason to believe an internally mounted regulator is any more reliable than an externally mounted solid state one. I`m not buying the "throw a battery at it theory" either. Symptoms don`t fit.

Looking at Haynes,it appears to be one of larger (1.25mm) wires at the reg.White w/red stripe.

Check the voltage on the wire that goes from the regulator to the light.Don`t know what colour,sorry. Low voltage or a grounded wire here will light those 3 lights,AFAIK.

Fusible links will be in a small plastic box very near battery positive.

This is usually diode failure in the alternator. Use a voltmeter to check for AC voltage AT THE ALTERNATOR w/headlights, fan, etc. on,engine at 2500 rpm.Should be less than 0.5V. Bypass the ignition switch at its pink? 6 pole? connector under the dash.

A 5-6 second delay before the engine cranks is not acceptable on any car at any temperature. Injection problems won`t prevent the engine from cranking. Take it back to the dealer and let them figure it out. Probably an undercharged battery,but,possibly a draw etc.

75-81

Check fuel pressure. Check voltage across pump. Remove and try blowing thru the fuel filter at least.

It is probably staked in.Leave it where it is.No good reason to remove it.

I`m not sure EA81s need rod bearings either.LOL. Friend and I bought an 82 with a loud rod knock because we liked the Cyclops light and wanted to work on one of those "different" subarus. Disassembly revealed one of the rod bearings worn down as thin as a sheet of paper.Must have been 3/16" or more clearance! This motor still ran OK (loudly).Even showed good oil pressure.Hard to say how long it would have lasted though.

You had one of the 3 things you needed.A (good?) cobalt bit. You also need the proper slow speed and high feed pressure. An oversped overheated chipped cobalt bit is as useful as a wet noodle. Cobalt bits vary in quality a lot.I made the mistake of buying a cheapo set.They were inferior to decent HSS bits.Junk. BTW,cobalt bits are made from solid cobalt steel(not coated) and are as good as new after sharpening,unlike those junky titanium ones thinly coated w/titanium nitride.

2-3 sounds perfect. Tape the gauge to the windhield.Go for a drive.If pressure remains 2-3 you are golden. You could try a volume test if you are concerned. Spec is around 28 litres/hour.

Yes,check fuel level in the carby sight glass. Tape a fuel pressure gauge to the OUTSIDE of the window. Check voltage at the pump.Ground too if needed.

Are the dealers having trouble getting Carter/Weber parts?

I think you need to swap calipers.I haven`t done it.

Gotta good photo? If you are convinced it is fluffy from rich running,swap that injector w/one from a good cyl.See if the problem moves.Swap the plug and wire too if possible. IIRC,the injectors are fired in pairs so an ECU problem should show on 2 cyl..Measure and compare injector pulse widths w/a dwell meter,digital meter or scope if concerned.Or swap ECUs.

ECU coolant temperature sensor is the 2 wire one beside the vac advance. Gauge sensor is the 1 wire one nearby. You need to figure out for sure if that is oil or carbon from rich running. My guess is oil.

Yes,there is an ea-81t under the modifications. Leakdown test only tests the compression rings not the oil control rings. Normally they wear at a similar rate so a leakdown test usually provides oil ring info by inference only. Additionally,leakdown test won`t detect cylinder defects below TDC or bad valve guides/seals. You may be aware that the actual #s on the gauge are not that meaningful(10% leakage on a large engine is more than on a small engine),but, different readings on known good/bad cyldrs are.

Vented vs non-vented rotors. Vented if 1983 4wd auto. Vented if built 7/83 on. Unvented otherwise. Take a look. Rear drum choices are 4wd and non.