naru

It is a 1bbl. You can swap to a hitachi by swapping manifolds. I would not call it an "upgrade". Sounds like your choke stays on or the float valve is leaking. Ones I`ve worked on had loose screws holding the throttle body to the carb bowl.Need to remove carb to tighten. I would buy a gasket and float valve needle and seat from the dealer. Might get away w/a simple float adjustment,but,might as well change the valve w/it is opened up. Adjust cold idle by turning the screw on the long arm that makes contact w/the cam near the choke thermostat.Put the arm on the 3rd step.Adjust to 2000 rpm. IIRC,adjust warm idle by turning the screw in the centre of the idle stop solenoid on the other side of the carb.

You have an 84. Look at the pinout of the a/f meter plug.It shows 5 wires.My 84 has 5. Are you sure that blackness is not oil?

EA-81Ts use the crank pulley for timing adjustment.No need to worry about swapped flywheels. You are supposed to unplug the 2 pole black connector that is between the disty and the knock control computer w/setting timing.Practicaly,I don`t think it makes much difference in MOST cases. I would check compression,vacuum etc. Swap the "misbehaving injectors" to another location.

A test light grounded thru pin 50 would be better as it would draw some current.

Probably nothing to see inside.Never know though. If the ECU fuel pump ground pin is open to all the ECU ground pins when using the diode test function of a multimeter,you can be pretty sure the ECU is bad.This assumes the ECU switches fuel pump ground w/a transistor rather than a relay.A safe assumption I think.Compare to a known good one to be sure.

Just put your meter between battery negative and the ECU plug ground points.Voltage measurment under load is preferred,but,resistance unplugged may do. The failure is more likely inside the ECU,IMO. oops, missed the multi ECU thing,were those multi known working ECUs?

That is debatable as the Sambar design precedes the Loyale/1800/1600/1400/1300/1100/1000 car series by several years. Never saw the dodge + chevys before.Good one.LOL.

It is cable controlled from the dash temp control.

For an ea-81,feel temp of the coolant lines on the heater core side of the water control valve near the throttle pedal. Don`t bother feeling the lines in the engine compartment as the valve circulates coolant even when it cuts flow to the heater core.

No,the important part of the valve seat is the size of the hole where the valve seats. Bigger hole = more pressure on the valve resulting in a higher carb fuel level for the same float setting.

These retro Sambar Kombis are cool too.

Trans hooks to manifold vacuum.Not constant though(would be no point if it was).

#12 You should be good to go.

Make sure the 2ndary throttle is closed. Check choke fast idle linkage etc.

L97

Here is an interesting one for sale locally. $7950 Canadian. "Check this out. It is the most practical, versatile and economical vehicle you will ever own. This 1992 Subaru Sambar 4x4 comes with a 660cc 4 cyl engine that gets 55mpg. It has a 6-spd tranny as well as a locking center diff. The truck has an original 32,000kms and is in great condition. It is fondly known as "Lil Dumper" as it also has a hydraulic dump box which comes in very very handy if you are doing any landscaping, renovating, hunting, wood cutting etc. etc. etc. This truck is really worth its weight in gold. It is virtually unstoppable in the snow as the rear mounted engine and the true 4 wheel drive lend to phenomenal traction. The box has been lined with a spray in liner for durability and easy clean up. The existing graphics can easily be removed or you might want to develop the business. Either way the price is the same. Even if you just want to use this as a commuter truck you will find that it is a blast to drive and gets tons of attention whether you like it or not."

Yes.Use 700 rpm.

Not unless it is real real bad. Stale gas?

It is a good idea to change them once in a while. Just because they are not completely gummed up,doesn`t mean they are good.

There is good reason to replace it before it is so dead it triggers a code. Thier reaction time slows w/use,thus measuring mixture less accurately w/time. Unfortunately,reaction time(crosscounts in techno speak) is difficult to judge w/garden variety backyard mechanic tools. How long to leave the old one in? Good question.I think sensor life is highly variable and depends on the amount of contaniments seen internally and externally. Increased fuel use could be a sign of a tired non code throwing sensor. I thought someone said OEMs were Bosch. I`d use the cheapest.

:eek:

No,ECU CTS has 2 wires. Clear the codes and see what comes back.

This pretty much has to be poor connections/wires.

No,that is not what the manual says at all.You should try reading it sometime. I quote. "By returning fuel so as to balance the above pressure difference and the spring force,the fuel pressure is kept at a CONSTANT level 250.1 KPa(2.55 kg/cm2,36.3 psi) against the intake manifold pressure." Basic physics.Basic autoshop. The injector needs to see a constant pressure differential between the nozzle and the fuel supply to meter fuel accurately. Varying vacuum levels are varying pressure levels and the fuel pressure needs to follow along. If fuel pressure was constant w/o boost, non-turbo MPFI cars wouldn`t need a vacuum line on the pressure regulator.

What about the fuel pressure???