naru

I`m starting to wonder about the clogged exhaust theory. At this point,it may be worth dropping it off the heads a little.

Fuel pressure is too high at idle. Should be 36 psi above manifold pressure. Assuming 17 inches of vacuum at idle and since 1 inch of vacuum =.491 psi. Idle fuel pressure shoud be 36 -(.491 x 17)= 27.6 psi (or even lower for a higher vacuum) Check the regulator retun line for restriction and the reg vacuum line and the reg itself.

Pulled all the plugs yet? Just because they spark when pulled,doesn`t mean they will with compression pressure applied. Consider new ones. Might as well check compression w/they are out. I would measure ignition wire resistance and verify correct timing w/a timing light while cranking. If I didn`t have a light and thought timing was incorrect(no real reason to think so in this case),I would mark the distys original position and then have a 2nd person move it thru its range of adjustment w/cranking. Check for power on the idle stop solenoid. Can`t help thinking the problem is too much fuel.Leaking float valve perhaps. Verify fuel level is at the middle of the carb sight glass.Mirror?

Sounds like you already found it if we are talking ea-81 hatch. The 2 and only 2 lighting relays are side by side.

Check for power at the pump. If good,check ground.

Careful w/that test light around the CTS wires. It draws too much current and won`t work on 5 volts anyhow. A LED type test light would be safe.

Try another flasher unit.

Pull the spark plugs to inspect. Pump only runs a couple seconds w/o the engine turning,BTW.

Spend $10 on a meter to troubleshoot the CTS code. Check sensor resistance. Check resistance of the wires back to the ECU.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/270685073562?item=270685073562&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr If you really want to know. Seller says there are no jets. I suspect it opens the carb air bleeds wider and restricts the egr vacuum.

1.Yes,splice.Super easy.I`m having trouble understanding why this hasn`t already been done.Sounds like the wrong person is working on your car. 2.Yes,it should start.Computer is not messed up.Spark plugs might be fuel fouled though.Pull and dry if needed.

So fuel pressure drops below 35 at WOT? If so,you found the problem. Should be 35 plus whatever boost is at. 35+7(max stock boost)=42psi Check the pump volume at 1.5 psi boost by putting 1.5 psi on the regulator vac line w/a hand pump. EA-81Ts flow 95 litres/hour at this pressure.Yours should be at least that much. I would confirm leaness by monitoring the O2 sensor signal.

Check the fuel pressure w/driving.

I believe you are confusing this TPS w/the later 4 wire version used w/the optical distys.

I strongly suspect adjustment is identical to EA-81Ts.They are almost the same injection system. Idle contact opens at 2.5 degrees.Check at 1.5 degrees w/a .55mm feeler gauge. Make sure the idle switch is open at 2.5 degrees w/a .92mm feeler. Full contact closes at 32 degrees.

It only senses 3 positions. Idle, "full" throttle,and in between. Check contact resistance.I had to clean mine. W/reinstalling adjust position.IIRC,full throttle switch closes at 45 degree throttle opening.

Pardon me if I`m incorrect. I assumed from your board name the car is an 86.They don`t have hot wire MAFs. 86s have flapper MAFs. Airflow moves a flap which moves a potentiometer. They also incorporate an air temp sensor. FSM should show this. Here is waay too much info on very similar ones. http://the944.com/afm.htm If yours is the hotwire type,clean it carefully w/throttle body cleaner.

The clicking MAF is weird. Check to see if the flap moves freely thru the full range.Maybe it does not return to idle position. I`d suggest checking resistances too. Unfortunately,I don`t have specific specs for your car. Maybe someone else can help out?

Sure sounds like shiity gas activating the knock sensor and pulling timing back. Put a voltmeter on the phase correction signal wire to the disty.Monitor the voltage while driving to confirm. Similarily,hook the voltmeter to the O2 sensor to see if the mixture goes lean when warm.

Lotsa possibilities. Start w/ignition.Plugs,wires,cap,rotor. Shiity gas/bad timing activating the knock sensor and pulling timing back perhaps. I would check fuel pressure too. Up pipe leak.Not sure about hesitation w/this.

Try unplugging the MAF.

Waste of time. Stock is readily availible if yours is fubared.

Pretty sure SPFI regs are different. I can say for sure,they have different part #s. Check that the vacuum line isn`t blocked. Try unplugging the MAF. Suppose it could be 1 or more wonky injectors as well. If nothing else works,I would try unplugging them one at a time.Not fun in the cold.I sympathize.

It is over fueling for some reason. Shouldn`t even run w/the pipe off and no MAF signal to the ECU. Try unplugging the MAF.CTS too. Fuel pressure too high because of a clogged return line or stuck regulator perhaps. Air filter OK?

Checking the solenoid contacts is super simple w/the starter off. Just remove the 3 screws at the rear of the solenoid and remove the plunger. I just did mine last week. I had the click no start syndrome.On occasion,the starter would turn after a small delay.Not always an audible click.Very noticeable difference now. I robbed contacts out of a toyota starter. Current flow causes the battery contact to wear much more than the motor one,so the junkyard is full of NipponDenso solenoids w/at least one fairly good(or better) contact. Install them as squarely as possible. Here is a list of cars w/identical solenoids. https://www.dmauto.com/web/dmauto/Catalog/NAPA_ECAT/fits/ECH/E591/ If I was buying new ones,I would consider replacing the battery contact w/one of the larger B,C,or D styles shown here: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml Looks to be plenty of room. Originals are the A style. I resurfaced the plunger contact by spinning it in a drill against some 320 grit. Also cleaned the armature commutator w/crocus cloth while the starter was off.Surprisingly,brushes were in very good shape. after 220,000 km. Mine were .50".New is .55".Service limit is something like .30". Starter is like new now. Good for another 30 years. Good luck.