naru

I think any of the common manuals are OK for a standard engine rebuild. For the finer points of wiring etc.,you want a FSM. At the risk of repeating myself,for rebuild procedures,turbo/non-turbo EA-81s are IDENTICAL.If you found stuff on the standard EA81,you found it. Don`t let GD scare you.The few semi-unique fuel injection parts are extremely robust and don`t require replacement in a rebuild.Simple too.The ignition system is also simple and wear items can be salvaged from 85-86 EA-82Ts. Last time I checked,water pumps were readily availible. Pulleys don`t need replacing. Power steering pump is the same as an EA-82. Steering rack is the same as any EA-81 power rack w/a car build date later than 4/83. FWIW,my daily driver is an 84 turbowagon,

OK Got spark?Tach move? Pump will only run for a couple seconds if the ECU doesn`t see ignition pulses. Ignition pulse signal wire hooked to coil - ? It is a grey shielded wire on my 84. Got continuity between between the ECU plug and fuel pump ground? Between coil - and the ECU plug ignition pulse wire? Not totally unheard of for the ECU fuel pump driver to fail.Mine did. 2 in a row seems unlikely though.

OK Got spark?Tach move? Pump will only run for a couple seconds if the ECU doesn`t see ignition pulses. Ignition pulse signal wire hooked to coil - ? It is a grey shielded wire on my 84. Got continuity between between the ECU plug and fuel pump ground? Between coil - and the ECU plug ignition pulse wire? Not totally unheard of for the ECU fuel pump driver to fail.Mine did. 2 in a row seems unlikely though. As a last resort,I would check resistance between the ECU grounds and battery negative.

Are you sure the fuel pump grounds thru the ECU? My not completely trustworthy 85 diagram indicates it does not. I know later models do. Have an 85-86 FSM to look at?

On the contrary, an EA-81T is considerably simplier than a non-turbo EA81. No silly carburetor,no complicated air bleeds,no ASV,no FPCU etc...... The fact that ignition control is seperate from the fuel ECU is of no consequence. My greatest rebuild part finding fear would be the relative scarcity of EA-81T heads in case one was needed.They are out there too,if you know where to look.Pretty much all the other rebuild parts(cam excluded) are the same as a non-turbo EA81.

I would drive around the block w/a fuel pressure gauge attached. Try unplugging the O2 sensor as well.

Don`t throw parts at it. Next time it quits,note wether the tach shows any rpm while cranking. If not,you have power/coil or ignition module problems. If yes,check for spark at the coil and plug wires. Check that the fuel level is at the middle of the carb sight glass(love those).Kinda trickey-might need a mirror. Thirdly,It is fairly rare ,but,I would check for carb icing.I`ve seen it w/disturbed carb heat stoves.Moisture in the air freezes into an ice cube in the carb throat.Probably not your problem,but,easy to check. Pop off the air cleaner top and look for an ice cube in the carb throat quickly after stalling. Does it sputter to a stop or die quietly?

That is a good question. I don`t really know the answer. I know the chokes are easy to swap around.I`d go w/the water choke. Are you sure that is a DGAV 5A and not a DGV 5A? All the 5As I saw were DGV manual choke versions. All the 33b1s were DGAV water chokes. Somebody said 5As were earlier than 33b1s. If they are anything like the Weber DCOE series,the different dash numbers indicate different size and positioning of the transisition ports above the closed throttle plate. Either carb will be OK.

Could be wrong,but,I don`t think the carbed cars run the pump at all w/o cranking.

Looks like you have a slot to punch out if this picture is to be believed. http://www.evmania.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/p-640-480-4db0808b-89b8-4ca2-a681-29c2a56617e6.jpeg Shocking the drum w/a large hammer will usually free it from the hub.

I suspect the hole on the drum face may be for the adjustment. Not much use if the drum doesn`t turn. Some cars have slots on the drum face that must be punched out.Not sure about yours. I would drill the heads off the shoe hold down pins,if acessible.

The special fuel pump relay in your car needs to see ignition pulses to run the pump. Make sure all the wires are still on coil negative. You should have 12V at the pump w/cranking.

Subaru has specifically suggested which Champion plugs to use in my owners manual. Don`t get hung up on brands.

I`ve heard bad driveshaft steady bearing mounts make the exact same sound on other cars. Grab the shaft near the bearing and see if it moves around.

Probably pinched the breather line. Tank should not have to breathe through the gas cap.

You are in more trouble than I thought if you are using Honda service info to fix your Subaru. Knock yourself out w/some real Subaru info. http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx Don`t know if it will help you find the vacuum leak though.

Yes,if the vacuum relief valve doesn`t work.

Preventitive maintainence is a good thing and the fuel pump mileage is getting up there,but,replacing it on the basis of the evidence presented borders on the ridiculous,IMO. If the fuel pump check valve leaked,hot starts would be a problem along w/cold ones.Even if it is leaking,it is not really a problem. If the fuel pump was worn enough to have low pressure,there would be symptoms other than slightly long cranking w/cold. I have to wonder why your shop bothered telling you this but didn`t take the 30 seconds necessary to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and "do diagnostics".I`m neither impressed nor surprised.($$$$$$) You can buy a gauge for $20 and do the "diagnostics" yourself.

If the headlights dim while trying to start,99% chance it is poor battery connections or a bad battery. Batteries can seem fully charged and still be crap.Did you load test it? Take the battery connections off and clean them well w/a baking soda solution and whatever else it takes. Once everything works,bury the connections in grease to prevent future corrosion.

Badly plugged exhaust or weak fuel pump,perhaps. Try running w/the MAF unplugged too. Any codes?

I have a cherry bomb on my 84 turbo.It is not too loud.I still have an ungutted cat though.I`d try it. Don`t know about the WRX downpipe,but,I`m interested in the answer too. You want the muffler to fit the inner pipe.

for base timing sure in the real world,removing the vac hose only makes a base timing difference if the idle throttle position is maladjusted or some comedian has it hooked up to manifold vacuum. it doesn`t need plugging for as long as it takes to figure that out. it doesn`t need plugging for the few seconds it takes to figure out wheteher the excess advance at rpm is related to the vacuum signal either.

Turn the distributor shaft against the spring tension.If it turns much more than about 6 degrees, the centrifigual advance has problems. Be sure to send us some rally pictures.

sure that eliminates any effect of the vac advance mechanism. did you want to be told to plug it?

Hmmmm... That`s unusual. Centrifigual advance should be all in by 2000 rpm and should add about 12 degrees max. Try it again w/the vacuum line disconnected. Make sure the rotor is tight on the shaft.I`ve seen some flop around. Check the shaft for play while you are there.