naru

Problem w/that is the resistor needs to be very high wattage. Something on the order of 100 watts depending on the resistance.

As much as 13 amps on high speed according to the 84 FSM. Sounds a little high.

I`d be looking at the brushes if I was you and there are no excess voltages or AC.Common problem-cheap fix.

Both cam belts good? Does the rotor turn w/cranking? Codes? Check for spark at the coil output?

The non-working ones likely got contaminated somewhere down the distribution line or maybe even by your engine. I worked on a 280SLK that was regularly losing O2 sensors. Culprit was a leaking cam sensor that was a long ways away. Oil travelled down the wiring harness until it fouled the sensor.Filled the ECU too! I would put a digital meter on the output of the bad one(s) and hit them w/a propane torch to see if they generate any voltage just for fun.

You might want to check out ej-22 swaps as well. Seems a lot easier to buy a gasket and whatever else you need from the dealer though.

Webers are not "easier to maintain".No maintenece required on either. Crappy airfilter on the Webers.No carb pre-heat. Of course you can rebuild a Hitachi. Not sure what you mean by "tune". Subaru has already tuned it for you.Easy. If you mean adjust the idle mixture and speed,it is the same as any other carb. Buy vacuum line at any autoparts store. Careful attention to detail is required when rebuilding any carb. Fair bit more difficult than the grunty type mechanical repairs. Don`t bother if the throttle shaft has lots of play. My 4 cents.

If the solenoid winding is indeed good(nothing else matters for the code) you need to check the wiring between the solenoid and ECU.

Those pictures aren`t of older models,but Hitachi carbs that were used before and after 82.You are lucky enough to have a Carter/Weber used on some 82-84s. No kits anymore AFAIK,but,individual parts are available from the dealer,I believe. If you do take it off,be sure to check the screws that hold the throttle body section to the float bowl section for tightness.

Salt and vinegar is better.Rinse afterwards. Dielectric grease(or other) will prevent future corrosion. I bury my battery terminals in grease.I never have corroded connections.

Start by looking at the carb sight glass (w/a mirror?) after stalling to confirm fuel is at the right level.(middle)

+1

Code 34 signifies an electrical failure of the solenoid that controls vacuum supply to the egr.You need to find a good used one if you want the egr to work.Take your ohmeter to the junkyard. Light can be extinguished by subbing a resistor for the solenoid winding. Do a search for the value.No egr in this case.

I replaced the rather cracked turbo turbine housing on my EA-81T. Boost was getting a little sluggish and was accompanied by what I thought was a death rattle at idle. I thought for sure the rotating parts were beating themselves to death as they are wont to do. Much to my surprise,upon removal and inspection,they were OK and went back in. Rattle must have been the wastegate flopping around somehow as it is nice and quiet now w/the new housing. Boost is back the way it should be-Woo-Hoo! Back to being a stoplight sleeper.

000 and 080 are different parts w/different prices.No indication that one superceded the other. 000 will be found on 85-6 carbed 4wd ea-82s.

http://hildstrom.com/projects/seafoam/index.html

Maybe just long enough for the O2 sensor to warm up and start commanding the mixture richer. If you have live data on your scanner,check to see if the O2 sensor comes alive at the same time the car becomes drivable. I would compare airflow measurements of the 2 MAFs as well. Wouldn`t suprise me if a slightly weak pump/clogged filter exhibited very few symptoms when warm.A one year old filter change is ancient history. Time for a new one,regardless.

1990 Turbos only.

Bucking is normally fuel starvation. Leaky injectors are more likely to give trouble when warm. I`ve seen intake manifold vaccuum leaks cause a similar problem on other engines. Vacuum leak seals itself as motor warms. I would check fuel pressure.Maybe the pump/filter is marginal. If no gauge availible,at least remove the filter and attempt to blow through it.Or change it. I suspect the new MAF runs the engine slightly richer than the old one thereby ALMOST compensating for the leaness.

Catalina Auto Recyclers USA-AZ(Tucson) E-mail 1-800-842-7862 These guys have a carbed 86.

FYI,it only controls the fuel pump,not ignition. In the absence of ignition pulses,fuel pump stops. A previous poster has reported opening it up and replacing the bad internal relay. An alternative is to rewire the fuel pump relay coil in order to ground through an oil pressure switch. 3rd alternative is steal fuel pump relay power from another source. The fuel pump driver in my turbo ECU fried,so that is what I did. Pump runs w/key on.I didn`t bother w/the oil pressure switch thing. To find the original part,go to http://www.car-part.com/ Look up a different part for your carbed 86.Rev sensor won`t be listed. Once you locate a car,phone the wrecker and describe what you need. They will have one for sure. I`ll check my local wrecker in the near future. Good luck.

Pretty sure you can use a carbed ea-82 disty as well by cutting off the extra mounting tab and swapping on the ea-81 drive gear.

Yes,pretty much any year. There are some small differences in the vacuum advance etc.,but,they are inconsequential. However,you should be aware that there are 2 different distributor manufacturers for the ea-81s.(Hitachi and Nippon-denso)It has been suggested that the ignition coil should match the disty as the primary winding resistances(and therefore current draws) are different. Hitachi disty w/hitachi coil etc. Since you mention a pick-up coil,yours should be Nippon-Denso.(2wd IIRC) The Hitachis have "ignition modules."(4wd IIRC) These terms get used interchangibly,so it pays to check.

It is inside the distributor. $485 is outrageous. Find a used disty for $50 or so.

You are hooked up to ported vacuum right? Just checking. Make sure the vacuum port is not uncovered at idle.(check for vacuum) Maybe the ea82 egr flows too much for the ea81?