naru

More amazzing than you think. Looks like they go as low as $10 for a new one w/strainer on ebay!! I wouldn`t hesistate to use one if I could afford to wait for delivery. I run a bottom dollar ebay pump in a different application currently.

2 lb/min= 15 g/sec so that is only slightly over spec of 14.5 0.95 lb/min= 7.2 g/sec so that is a fair bit higher than the 4.2 g/sec spec. 1000 rpm seems too high for idle speed so not totally unexpected Still seems on the high side though. Good idea to clean the MAF. I think the MAF needs to be waay out before a code is thrown. Fuel pressure is usually the first thing to check on an injected engine. Sometimes you can borrow or rent a gauge locally. You can spend a zillion dollars on one if you are a sucker,but,there is no need to. Here is a inexpensive one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injection-Pump-Pressure-Gauge-Tester-Gasoline-Test-Tools-Tuner-Cars-Trucks-/260908497390?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cbf5bb9ee I bought the same one years ago.Works fine.Mine didn`t come w/the fancy case.

Yes,but,there would not be enough heat in the engine after only 45 seconds to close an intake leak.Additionally,you mention it also happens after a drive when the engine is presumably warm. I suspect fuel or coolant fouled plugs.

Actually,I find the FSM dignostics wanting. For me,in most cases,a quick look at a wiring diagram suggests a more logical diagnostic path. They are useful,of course,but,the diagnostics suck sometimes.

888 rpm is well above cranking speed,so no problem there. I would inspect the protusions on the cam sprocket if possible. I see the sensor wires are enclosed in a grounded sheath. If this was comprimised,stray emf may induce enough of a voltage in the sensor wires to overwhelm the miniscule signal voltage. I would do a quick check for alternator AC output. (high elec. load,2500 rpm-measure at the alt.-should be under 0.5V) Check the fuse in your Fluke. When I blow the fuse in my meter it will still read voltage but not ohms or amps.

Free 97 manual here http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx FSM doesn`t have much to say anyhow. Merely check continuity of the wires to the ECU and thier isolation from ground. If good,replace sensor.

Vacuum readings can be tricky to diagnose. Yours sounds like classic weak valve springs. I would disconnect injectors one at a time to isolate the problem. I`m thinking a bad head gasket could be similar.

So the Fluke flunked? Hope you don`t really trust your life to it. I would check for AC voltage generated by the sensor while cranking. Should be 0.1 volts or more.IIRC,I`ve used a digital meter for this measurement w/o problems. Maybe it is intermittent.I would abuse it a little w/the ohmmeter hooked up.

No resistance spec in the FSM. However,they appear to be the same part as many other subes that have a stated resistance of 1-4k ohms. AC voltmeter connected to either while cranking shold see at least 0.1 volt. I`d be looking at grounds w/that many codes.

Somethings wonky. Cam sensor spec is 1-4k ohms. Try your meters on the crank sensor.It is also 1-4k. The sensors are simple coils so they don`t care what type of meter you use.

It goes to one of the small metal tubes directly below the carb.There should be a vacant one on the passenger side. Offhand,I`m not sure if you can block that one,but,it is going to be better blocked than open.

If the belts are OK,check compression and/or valve clearance(if non-hydraulic lifters).

Start by making sure the fuel pump runs for a moment w/the key is turned on.

1 Leaky intake valve maybe? Try putting compressed air into #1 at TDC and listen at the carb. Might be worth checking valve clearance too. 2 Vacuum leak 3 Carb trouble 4 Ignition crossfire(seems unlikely) Look for moisture or carbon tracks inside the disty cap.

Can`t help thinking you are barking up the wrong tree re spark,but,I could be wrong. Judging ignition quality by spark colour is an old wive`s tale. The length of gap it will jump is a better indicator.Spark testers w/an adjustible gap are useful. In addition,the inline testers that connect to the plugs ground through the plug adding another variable to the mix.The type that ground directly to the block and have an adjustible gap are better,IMO. Briggs and Straton say: "A bright blue spark is best. A yellow/orange spark signifies weak ignition. Not true. Spark color determines virtually nothing. The hottest spark is ultraviolet which we can't see. Blue spark is cold in comparison to ultra-violet. Orange and yellow come from particles of sodium in the air ionizing in the high energy of the spark gap" The ignition power transistors are normally all or nothing. The injectors might be letting an excess of fuel dump in the cylinders. Might be leaky injector(s),(does the fuel pressure hold after shut down?), bad MAF,TPS or CTS. I would try starting w/each of the above disconnected alone. Dry the plugs each time. Those compression #s are pretty bad.I think it should still run though.

I would check the steady bearing by grabbing the driveshaft beside the bearing and attempting to move it up and down.This will show play in the bearing or (more likely) its rubber mount. I`ve heard bad steady bearings(the rubber actually) make a similar non-metallic thumping sound. Hard to say for sure,but,it sounds to me like the sound repeats at driveshaft RPM rather than axle/wheel RPM.

I would check the steady bearing if you have 4wd.

If yours is similar to ea-81s(probably),dash,headlights and fan share a ground point under the dash.Common problem. Confirm poor grounding by putting a voltmeter between the dash ground and battery negative w/fan and lights on.Any significant voltage indicates a poor ground.Repair by cleaning the ground attachment or running a dedicated ground wire to the battery.

Yes

Do tell,MR. Expert What do YOU think the synchro is for? Nobody else seems to know.

99% plugged filters 1% weak fuel pump

Can`t really tell from the photo. One should go to coil +,other to coil -. If you have spark,wire routing is OK.

Haynes got it right. Your "full transistor ignitor" is in the photo. It is hooked up properly. Don`t be molesting it.

Different camshaft and pistons. EA-81T pistons are dished,IIRC. ECU needs to match the engine,not trans.

What do you think the synchro is for? 5 mph is rolling. If it has a synchro,it is designed to shift while moving.End of story.