naru

IMO,installing a new bearing is both better and easier. Punch works to loosen/tighten the bearing retainer.You don`t need a special socket.

No CAS or coil bracket ignition amp on an ea-81.

It won`t.

Incorrect,it is inside the distributor.

"Full Transistor Ignitor" is another name for the ignition module inside the distributor.

Better have 2.Pure BS.

o2 senor wire is cut

Mostly just what is here.Look 84. http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx I have a little more if what you need isn`t there.

No 100% way.If they have play,they`re bad.If not,they may still be bad. Was threre any change after swapping axles?

Bad inner CV joints are a common cause. Did the vibration change w/the "new" axles were installed?

Even while fuel is spraying out of the carb? Gauge may not show high pressure transients from combustion pressure leaks. A bit of a "fuel fog" above the carb is normal sometimes,but,it sounds like you are talking about something more serious. I know it is not what you want to hear,but,you have engine problems. Think about it,what else is going to make fuel spray out of the carb? Try disabling one cyl. at a time.

No airlow meter fuel pump switch on subes. BTW,An 86 w/a flapper style MAF will have different ECU pin-outs than an 87 w/a hotwire MAF.

Might as well.I suppose if it still had 12V after startup,the engine might flood.

According to my diagram,pin 24 is only hot when the ignition switch is in the start position.

Sorry if I wasn`t clear. I meant,I would not bother checking the fuel pump voltage unless fuel pressure gauge read low.You need a gauge. The thing in your 2nd last picture is the auxilary air valve. It opens and bypasses the throttle plate when the engine is cold for fast idle. The coolant temperature sensor is right below on the left. As for the coil wires,It looks like the thickish grey one is on coil - like it should be. Just noticed the video.Everthing looks good there.ECU cuts off the pump AFTER the engine quits rotating.

+1

OK,so probably not those ones.Sounds like they are injector outputs anyhow. A more systematic diagnosis w/the voltmeter is required when shotgun repair methods fail.It will save time and money. Harness connection points,ignition relay contacts and fusible links are all on the suspect list.Measure at ECU to see what is missing.

Maybe the crankcase plug visible w/the water pump removed is corroded or loose.

Believe this is the thread I was thinking of. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67331&page=4&highlight=injector+trunk

You need to unwrap the harness,IIRC.

That many codes at once is an almost sure sign of an ECU power supply or grounding issue.Likely to cost nothing but time to fix. Check ECU power by putting your meter negative lead on battery negative and the positive on the backside of the ECU plug at the relevent location. Check grounds by moving the positive lead to the ECU grounds at the plug.All should be 0 volts. My money is on failed wiring harness crimp connections in the rocker under the sill plate.Gloyale has posted some good photos,IIRC.You might want to search for those. ECU failure is doubtful,but,if so,they can be had for $25-$50 at Car-part.com depending on your build date.

Has you car taken a recent Mexican vacation? I`ve never seen it, but apparently lead fouling can be greenish. http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/ctrp_0403_spark_plug_tuning/reading.html

ECU needs to see ignition pulses from the coil in order to run the pump more than 1 second or so. Does the tach move when cranking? Does the blue output wire see any voltage at the relay? Does the white(?) input wire remain powered all the time? Relay might operate,but, if white is unpowered,blue output will be too. If blue powers up at the relay but not the pump,then it is broken.

Why bother w/that junk if you already have an electronic distributor? If converting from points,factory distributor makes more sense.

The single spark after removing your screwdriver jumper from the starter is a little mysterious as the coil is still powered up w/the key on. This combined w/the weird blower action suggests to me that the ECU is not receiving full voltage.IIRC,the wiring harness has some crimped connections in the rocker area that corrode. I would measure ECU input voltages by backprobing the connector.