naru

Leaky injector,perhaps.Try starting w/throttle floored to clear the excess fuel. Check for spark if that doesn`t work.

Might be a valve problem. Run the motor w/a vacuum gauge on the intake manifold.

Not to worry.We all get it wrong now and then. I would disconnect the throttle cable (make sure return spring remains on the carb) after warming the engine to see if the throttle plate(s) still hangs up.Work the throttle by hand. If so,I`d remove the carb to examine position of BOTH throttle plates and condition of the linkage.Check for play in the throttle shafts while you`re at it.

If you are referring to the empty hole beside the choke coil mount,that is not an adjustment.Tighten the jet holder and forget. Jet and holder assembly should look like this http://tekenaar.opelgt.com/Misc/dfo/dfojets/DFOidlejetcomparetxt.JPG Idle mixture adjustment is at the base of the carb. Idle speed adjustment is near the throttle lever. This should help.http://www.carburetion.com/diags/3236DGVDiaginfo.asp

If you are referring to the empty hole beside the choke coil mount,then no spring. That is where the idle jet and holder goes.It should have an o ring on it. There is one on the other side too. O ring will act like a spring. Vacuum leaks here will definitely cause problems.

Could be wrong,but, I think the FPCU on carbed cars won`t activate the fuel pump until it sees ignition pulses from a cranking engine. Be aware that motors w/aviation camshafts will perform poorly at low rpm.

It is a throttle plate position thing rather than RPM. (throttle needs to open enough to uncover the "ported vacuum" passage) I`m not sure if you can open the throttle far enough w/no load on the engine.Blipping the throttle should get you a pulse of vacuum though. Does the hose from the disty go directly to the weber or are there other things teed in?

There isn`t supposed to be vacuum there at idle. You should only have vacuum w/throttle above idle and warm engine. Somewhat common for the diaphragm to rupture and leak.See if it holds vacuum.This would cause power loss.

Your dealer sounds like a real dweeb.F`n useless.Find another. These #s are all over the place. I found them in both my 1985 Chiltons Import Labour guide and parts manual and my 1991 Mitchell mechanical parts and labour guide books. Inexcusible that the dealer can`t be bothered to find them.

Fuel pump running?

Nope,just rights and lefts.

If you have spark at the coil,that eliminates most disty problems. Got spark at the plugs? If not,check cap ,rotor , and contact button. Make sure the rotor has not moved on the shaft. If yes,pull the spark plugs and dry them out. Measure plug wire resistance while you are at it. Coil replacement is a waste of money(or worse) 90% of the time.

RH seal 8067 27030 O ring 0628 07110 8069 75010 3spd auto

Alternator and fusible links.

Voltage looks good on the 2nd higher rpm run.

Bad news.Connecting rod bearing is gone.That will make some noise. Be prepared to spend some money to fix it.

36 psi above manifold pressure 36 engine stopped,about 28 idling I wouldn`t bother w/the meter unless pressure gauge shows something unusual. Coolant temp sensor is the 2 pronged one near the thermostat.

Tighten/clean the ground wire that comes out of the harness under the left side of the dash.Maybe run a dedicated ground from battery negative to there.

http://buyersguide.caranddriver.com/subaru/impreza/2010/subaru-impreza-5-door/price

81s could have either single or dual range 4wd. An 82 dual range I had would not shift into 4wd.Had to hammer on the seized selector shaft to free it up.

Seeing how adjacent cylinders are both poor,head gasket leaking compression between them is a possibility.

Not really,backprobe for the reading.You can check at the relay under the seat too.,but,at the pump is better. I strongly suggest checking fuel pressure. Make sure there is a (grey?) shielded wire attached to coil negative.W/O it,ECU sees no ignition pulses and will only run for a short time like yours does. The MAF cleaning deal is more for the hotwire style,not vane type MAFs like you have.

Might be stuck in 2 gears at once because of worn shift components. I`ve had that happen on other cars. Does pressing the clutch disengage the drive in 1st? Even if the clutch is not releasing,it should be possible to shift gears w/o touching the clutch at all w/a little skill.

So,is it done or is it a year old?

I`d try a little higher float level.