naru

Change the fuel filter and carry spare belts.

Look for play in the joints(axle stub turns but axle doesn`t). Sometimes they can feel tight but still be noisy,but,if they are loose,you can be sure they are worn.

And make sure the throttle closes all the way all the time.

Change the fuel filter for a start.Note how plugged the old one is.

When the bolt tension excedes the elastic limit. Not that hard to do w/cheap bolts. Amazing how far they will stretch.I have lots of examples.No stripped threads. Torque to yield bolts are designed to stretch,of course.

You need a ROYZE CA-2K 1990 W. Corporate Way, Anaheim, CA 92801 * 800-421-2011 * 714-533-1823 sales@royze.com - royze@royze.com Dealer should have what you need individually too. Complete used carbs,$50 at http://www.car-part.com/index.htm Get the right year.IIRC there are 2 versions 82-84. Nothing wrong w/the carter/weber 1bbls.

I think they are referring to checking the integrity of the connection between the ECU and the wiring harness as per page 44. It would have been better(but harder) to measure resistances at the ECU plug like the manual suggests.That way harness gets checked at the same time. IMO,your code may be caused by high resistance on the throttle sensor ground(35).I think the idle switch pulls the throttle sensor voltage high because of the poor ground. Or,the potentiometer has a dead spot at idle.

Looks too rough to me.I`d be worried.

According to rockauto 1997 and 2000 use different pressure regs. 1997 operates at 36psi. 2000 operates at 44psi. That makes your pressure highish at times the car is stumbly.

Broken timing belt,bad fuel pump.......

If my specs are correct,pressure should be 26-30 at idle. Does your spec book show any difference between 1997 and 2000?

Or a restricted return line.Probably the reg. Double check me on the specs.I pulled those from the factory ej-25 manual for 1997.Seems to be the same for most subes of the era.

I didn`t realize you drove w/the gauge already,my bad. Pressure should be 36 psi above manifold,so 50 psi w/the vac. line pulled is way too much. Should be 26-30 psi w/engine running,line hooked up. Must be the problem.

I`d read the codes even though there is no CEL.

Still sounds like it might be a fuel delivery issue. Change the filter before anything else.Note how hard it is to blow thru the old one. Just because pressure is adequete at idle,doesn`t mean it is OK under load. You want to see the pressure at the same time the engine stumbles. Plumb the gauge VERY SECURELY,duct tape it to the OUTSIDE of the windshield and go for a drive. Normally,I would expect to see misfire/leaness trouble codes to be associated,but, you can never be sure about that.

http://www.rockauto.com/

That is some ugly noise alright. Quite strange the dash is still lit w/the alt.belt off. Must be a more serious wiring problem. I would concentrate on the noise for now. You should be able to pinpoint it using a piece of hose for a stethescope Pay attention to the water and PS pumps. Kinda sounds like it is at valve speed.See if a timing light flashes in unison when moved from cyl. to cyl.Consider a compression test and/or remove a valve cover for inspection.Might want to see if the noise changes any by pulling plug wires one by one.

The gauge.Stock are notorously low reading at low pressure. Try a mechanical one for a test.

Pages 22,31 in the ea-82 manual here: http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx

Toast. For the noise,I`d take the timing cover off for a look. Tensioner bearing fubared,perhaps?

Alternator falling apart? Not sure about all the noise,but,your alternator diodes are gone causing AC voltage to light up the dash. Try taking off the belt.

"Though most gasket manufacturers do not specify a minimum smoothness spec for aluminum heads that have MLS head gaskets, they do recommend a minimum of 30 RA for engines with aluminum or cast iron heads and a nonasbestos or graphite head gasket. The reason for doing so is because soft-faced head gaskets require a certain amount of lateral support from the head and block." You should read the link.Quite good. http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar996.htm

Got power to the relay coil/contact? (BW wire.) BTW,ECU activates fuel pump by grounding the relay coil.

Check that the fuel pump has voltage up to the time the engine quits rotating. If OK,check fuel pressure.

Subaru is full of shyte. Lots of peple(including me) have adjusted it. Not rocket science.