naru

I think it grounds out thru the alternator.Try unplugging it to see. I suspect this may be normal.Not 100% sure. I would test the alternator for AC voltage in case there is a leaky diode.

Those corroded connectors can`t be good.Fix/clean as many as you can. Pay attention to the airflow meter connector. Exhaust leaks before the turbo kills power in turbo cars,but,don`t usually affect idle.Not uncommon for the up pipe to have holes under the heat shields.Holes here can give a false o2 sensor reading.Try it w/the O2 sensor unplugged. Try it w/the CTS unplugged too. After confirming correct ignition timing,I would put a voltmeter on the O2 sensor to see if it is rich/lean.Might be just a vacuum leak. Inspect the rubber intake piping for cracks etc. New fuel filter is always a good idea,but, probably not your problem. Try to blow thru the old one. Distributor shaft have much sideplay? Vacuum diaphragm good? AFAIK,if you have defrost selected,fan will run regardless of temp.

Probably a weak spring in the slave cyl. Clutch cover springs w/unequal pressure resulting in some of the fingers being higher. Could be bad master or insufficient pedal free play too. Missing return spring or damage on the TO bearing shaft ,perhaps? On the wierder side,excessive flywheel runout or crankshaft endplay.

Just a thought.... Both tensioner bearings were bad. Old one didn`t like increased tension from new tensioner. If it a crankshaft bearing squealing,it won`t last much longer.

I see 21,34,aand 35. What they mean depends on what you drive.

Make sure the return line from the regulator to the tank is open before condemning the reg. Car-part.com is your friend. Plenty of unique semi-hard to find parts on an ea-81t.

Check timing belt? +1

Unplug the sensor. Connect an AC meter to it and crank engine.Should show voltage variation.

No

Clear the codes.See if cam code comes back.

Sounds like an intermittent alternator diode to me. Simple low voltage/poor connections won`t illuminate the brake light. Another big clue is the lights going off w/reduced rpm. I`d install the new one.

Dealer Bush(lever) 7331 46000, I think. Should be under $10. You should be able to tell if is gear oil by the smell.

It is a rebadged Trooper for the JDM only. This one is in British Columbia.

http://www.abbotsfordjapanauto.com/im1131.html

yes

Better to have the crank remachined. That way crank thrust clearance will be right on the money. Maybe you could use a different bearing set. I see the Clevite .25mm undersize set has a thrust bearing .15mm longer than stock. Take the bearing with you to the machine shop.

DCJ 306-8 or 9,I believe. Lots of carb kits.Here is one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-79-CARB-KIT-SUBARU-2-BARREL-HITACHI-4-CYL-NEW-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb4422481QQitemZ260722271361QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

A shot in the dark..... Did you have the crank machined for undersize bearings? I think some undersize bearing sets expect you machine the crankshaft thrust surfaces as well as the journals. Pretty sure the set I used did not require this.

Amazing what you can find. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/Subaru-ff-1-1300-1400-1600-1800-Brat-1970-1984-Repair-Guide/Carbureted-Fuel-System/Carburetor/_/P-0900c15280065ae8 Sounds to me like it is flooding. I would check the fuel level in the sight glass(love those).

The fusible links. Car will still have battery power w/no VR.

Check for spark at the coil wire rather than a plug wire. Put a test light on coil negative w/key on. If light iluminates,crank engine to see if it pulsates. If no pulsation,ignition module(Hitachi disty),pickup coil assy.(Nippon Denso), or wiring between coil and disty is bad. If light does not iluminate,move it to coil positive. If light iluminates now,coil is burnt out. If light stays dark,you have no power to the coil.Check fuses. This will ID the problem more than 99% of the time.

Driveshaft w/original u-joints is probably factory balanced as an assembly. I haven`t heard of any balance problems from replacing u-joints. Matchmark the pieces before disasembly. It is possible to bend a driveshaft.

1.I wouldn`t. 2.Dunno,but, it sounds like a waste of time. 3.For best mpg leave everything stock and repair the EGR. 4.Rotate and pull IIRC. 5.Ask Jerry 6.Dealer?

Make sure the choke is fully open once the engine is warm. If not,loosen the 3 choke cover screws and rotate the cover until the choke is just fully open. Check that it closes w/cold. Make sure you have 12 volts on the choke wire.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Four-Wheeler-6-76-Ford-F-100-Flareside-Pickup-/350442953946?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5198071cda http://cgi.ebay.com/Four-Wheeler-Magazine-June-1976-/290491519322?pt=Magazines&hash=item43a2a4d15a