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Or if you are multimeter challenged,put a jumper wire between coil + and battery +. See if it starts.

Pull the fuel pump fuse.

Timing light is better.Engine doesn`t need to start.

Knock sensor won`t prevent motor from starting. IIRC,it does not matter which way you hook up the wires. Ignition timing will be off now. I think you have an injector stuck open. I would see if the fuel system holds pressure. Inspect plugs/check wires/compression.

Make sure the coil is powered up while cranking.

Red dust is a sign the spark is jumping to ground inside the distributor. The red dust is iron oxidized by the arc. I`ve seen this in GM distys.

Hard to judge commutator wear from the photos,but,there appears to be enough meat left to run for quite a while yet. It appears to me that the brushes/commutator have been contaminated with oil/grease. The marks on the armature are strange.Any rub marks inside the housing? How are the bearings? I would: Polish the commutator w/320 grit. Undercut the commutator insulation w/a hacksaw if necessary.(you want it .008-.030 inches lower than the copper) Clean everything thourghly. Inspect the solenoid contact Your starter doesn`t have any magnets.

That doesn`t mean the EGR is closing 100%. Ignition trouble seems very unlikely.

That doesn`t sound good. Did you say you measured between the ECU connector and the MAF plug as well? I`m not clear if it was 70 ohms with the MAF unplugged.If so,trouble is in the harness. I would measure resistance of the ECU grounds(ECU plug to battery negative) I still don`t think ECU is the problem.

Pretty much classic vacuum leak symptoms. Seems unlikely both carbs would have the same problem. Leaks can be tough to pinpoint w/carb cleaner. (won`t spot a leaky EGR) Don`t really think it is your problem,but, I would "check" the EGR by reaching underneath and opening the diaphragm by hand and allowing it to "slam" closed several times. Check compression.

MAF should be unplugged. Things need to be very bad before a code is set. ECU is probably not the problem. Maybe the previous owner moved the ground wire from the intake. I would measure from battery negative instead of the body regardless of what the manual says. Did the air fuel gauge read OK after it started running bad again? If you clean the MAF again,do things improve again?

Bending a rod. Don`t see how you could force a plug out unless the threads were already stripped.

About $40 at rockauto.Cheap like borsch.

Rumbles are often wheel bearings. Jack it up and feel for roughness /looseness. 4wds have ride height adjusters on the front struts. Might be cranked all the way up.

Pressure test.

Fuel pick-up tube has a hole at the 4 gallon level.

Get a job furthur from home. You are never going to get good mileage driving only 1 mile.

Air chisel or hand chisel. Grinder or cutting wheel Cutting torch I would probably drill the heads off if the chisel doesn`t loosen them. Should be enough shank left to grab w/visegrips once the flex plate is off.

Different batteries have different voltages,but,"13.4 v just sitting " sounds too high to me.Have another meter? Headlights and blower use seperate fusible links. Check voltage to the headlight relays by measuring voltage on fuse#1.(powered side) Check voltage from the headlight relays by measuring voltage at fuses 9 and 10. Check voltage supply to the blower by measuring at any of fuses 4-8. I would check the ground under the far left side of the dash by putting a voltmeter between it and battery negative w/everything running.Should be 0V. Hydrometer or load test the battery too. Good luck.

TPS is switch type. Fuel pressure =36psi above manifold Wrong year FSM here(yours is slightly different) http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx

Blowby. You may well have a slightly restricted exhaust,but,IMO the evidence is far from conclusive. Seems to me that it is not restricted enough to cause "a LOT of exhaust in the oil filler tube" after a lightly loaded run. A run w/the exhaust dropped would settle that question. Pressure gauge in the O2 sensor bung is a more definitive test. A spec from another application I`ve seen was 2psi max at 2500 rpm in park.

IIRC,people have opened them for cleaning,I haven`t. You can monitor airflow meter output while driving by hooking a voltmeter to "check connector II" under the dash.It is red w/6 pins.Airflow meter output is on the YR wire. Seems unlikely that your car would need a double airflow meter replacement. I would be looking at the grounds and wiring harness back to the ECU.

I would be careful not to jump to conclusions based on the somewhat flimsy vacuum gauge evidence.Gauge behaviour sounds normal to me depending on how long it took to return to an idle reading.I would expect a plugged exhaust to show a lower than normal vacuum reading with the engine revved.Yours did not.Take that chart w/a grain of salt.I`ve seen very plugged exhausts hold the gauge at positive pressure w/the engine is revved. At least compare the results w/one of your other cars and/or drop the exhaust off the heads and try again.

I only looked up power racks for some reason. Unfortunately,manual racks are unique to 81 brats only. 7312 01070