naru

My book says 81s are unique for some reason: 7312 00040 At least brats and cars use the same one.

Check for slop in the shift linkage.

OK,but if the heated/expanded fluid can`t make it past the master cylinder compenstion ports how did it do so after a brake application? An inspection should easily reveal plugged compensation ports. (fluid should squirt back into the resovoir upon brake release) Might be worth checking booster pushrod clearance.

My money is on a faulty brake booster valve aplying the brakes w/o any pedal input. Can`t see how a faulty master could apply brakes on its own. Hold brakes on once applied-yes Self apply brakes -no I would disconnect the booster vacuum line,bleed off booster vacuum by pressing the pedal several times and go for a careful(no power braking) test drive as soon as possible after the problem occurs. Or more simply: jack a wheel off the ground confirm that it is difficult to turn bleed off the booster vacuum by removing the hose(thus leaving the master undisturbed) see if the wheel turns more easily If yes,booster is at fault

Yes

Don`t lose any sleep over the uncovered passage for a second(optional) accellerator pump. The non-carb parts DO look like junk. Some superior Chinese technology could have helped out.

You are wrong.That is a "real" Weber. Only DGECs anD IDFs are Solex made. That is not a DGEC and it is certainly not an IDF. Kinda silly to think it makes a difference anyway. "Real" Spanish built Webers are not "real" either according to some. (they aren`t made in Bologna after all)

http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx

14774 AA020 I think.Doesn`t look like a good # anymore.

It controls the EGR valve by controlling the vacuum supply. If it breaks loose again,engine will be lean and may ping because of the inoperative EGR/leanness. (Plug the vac lines to cure the vac leak)) Need car details for a part #.

Not sure,probably not. I think it is only 5V.Test light will draw too much current from the instrument voltage supply section of the ECU. Don`t use it! Digital meter.

Solenoid is the pop can sized thing on the starter w/wires attached.It is just a big relay. If the lights stay bright,check solenoid voltage by putting a voltmeter between the small(black/white?) wire on the back of the solenoid and battery -.Note the voltage while attempting to start.Much less than 12v indicates a problem w/the neutral safety switch(if auto),ignition switch or intervening connectors.

If the headlights go dim after the click,it is a bad battery or connections. If the headlights don`t go dim after the click,it will be worn solenoid contacts or possibly insufficient voltage supply to the solenoid.Measure the voltage at the solenoid to determine which.

Punch and hammer for the win.

Look for corrosion at the CTS connector.

You can`t test PCV valves.Just because they rattle,doesn`t mean they are good. A general tune-up would have been a better way to start. Make sure to replace the fuel filter and PCV along w/plugs/wires(test at least),cap and rotor. Make sure the EGR doesn`t have vacuum when cold.

Doesn`t sound like normal starter drive failure. Might still be the starter. Sounds a lot like the timing is too advanced.Do a recent tune-up? Starter loose? I would pull the spark plugs and try again.

http://www.indysworld.com/80s/fun/projectrudy/sheet5a.jpg http://www.indysworld.com/80s/fun/projectrudy/srx1.jpg http://www.indysworld.com/80s/fun/projectrudy/spengine.jpg

I think as long as you don`t force a tight gauge you are OK.

Apparently,platinums can be that delicate. News to me too.

I`m guessing a bad ignition switch or connectors. Make sure the battery is charged. Watch the battery voltage as you try to start. If good,look for 12V at the starter solenoid w/key in start position.

Are those voltages w/headlights on? Measure AC at the alt. rather than the battery.(headlights,heater fan on full,revs up)

Yes x 2. Pretty sure the neutral safety switch is in the console. Just be extra sure you are in neutral w/starting.A firm foot on the brake too,JIC.

At least 98% chance you need to replace the o2 sensor to rectify the o2 sensor heater code. Good place to start.Not so sure a faulty o2 sensor heating element would cause the other problems,but just possible.

Can`t see how they would damage anything.Probably don`t live up to the sales pitch.What does? I see they contain a capacitor. Idea sounds similar to plugs that contain an auxiliary gap. Auxiliary gaps have definite advantages when the plug is fouled. Anyone who dismisses plugs by brand is an idiot.