naru

Pressure gauge in the O2 sensor bung is better,but,vacuum gauge is a lot easier.Any will do.

If the temp gauge shows normal operating temperature,coolant is hot enough.

Simultaneous failure of all the coils on one side seems unlikely to me too. An extra large splash of water making it past the spark plug well seals might be a better explanation. Did they make this diagnosis solely on the basis of misfire codes? What type of fuel/O2 mix issues did the codes show? It would be helpful to know exactly what the codes were. FYI,coils are $60 at Rockauto. Can`t see how the broken pulley would affect anything unless something was disturbed during the repair. How does it run? CEL still on? Vacuum leak or failed o2 sensor are possibilities. I advise seeking another opinion,resetting codes and noting exactly which come back.

There is a real manual for your engine here(ea-81). http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx

Cam rides directly on the block.No cam bearings.

http://www.car-part.com/ New and used. Call your car "other" in the search form.

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/drivetrain-components/126353-dccd-box-yaw-sensor-locations.html

Bad brake booster won`t cause fluid loss.

That big of a leak should be easy to spot. However I can`t see any leak draining both sides of the reservoir unless the reservoir itself is cracked or got bumped. If no leaks are found in the usual places,I would suspect the master cylinder is leaking into the brake booster.May or may not show externally. If so,you need to remove the booster and flush it out.

Look for blown fusible links.

FWIW,Some clutch kits come w/pilot bearings for more than one application.

Replacing the injector may be worthwhile.That code 14 came from some type of injector or circuit fault. Make sure one side has power.Test light on the other side should pulse when the motor is cranked. Test injector resistance.

I`ve had good luck crazy glueing the magnets back together. They seem to work regardless of the glue as long as the fragments are held near their original positions. I think they are dirt cheap from the dealer.Ask for 491987401 or 491988711(84 up) magnet set.

But at least you don`t have to drop the fuel tank! I would check the voltage too,but,it is probably the pump.

Not if the engine turned.

If the battery is real bad,car won`t run. Try running it w/o a battery .

Fuel pump. Bumping it w/your hand gave the worn brushes enough contact to start the pump.

Nah.

http://mydownloadhq.com/servers.asp?PID=8bb4ec0b-ef1d-4813-a15e-d78413b18b65&lbd=1&ts=1/28/2011%204:34:07%20PM&q=Subaru%20Outback%202007%20Service%20Manual&cr=1 http://www.heroturko.org/s/subaru-outback-2007-service-manual/

Broken belt=cams not turning=no cam sensor signal=code 13 I wouldn`t expect a broken belt to damage the sensor,but,possible.

Use a jeweler`s screwdriver to release the lock tabs.

Corrosion.The pump is still bad.Change it before it leaves you stranded. You can use a cheaper ford truck pump.Search the board for details.

Yes.Main thing to note is wether the wheel moves in and out at the top.Clunk might be hard to get by hand.I`ve only seen this once. IMO,steering rack internal bushing play is more likely. FSM goes thru a measurement procedure,but,you should be able to feel any significant slop by simply turning to full lock,grasping the shaft extending from the housing and attempting to move it up/down,forward/backwards.

I`ve also seen struts w/wear on the internal shaft that would only show w/weight on the wheels.They clunked. With the car jacked up,everything seemed tight. With weight on the wheels,attempting to move the top of the tire in and out resulted in play and a clunk. Food for thought.

Mine clunks on turns too. It is because of excessive radial clearance between the steering rack shaft and the internal rack bushings.Spec is only .006 inch measured where the rack enters the housing when at full lock(boot removed). Might be worth checking.