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naru

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Everything posted by naru

  1. Never say never,but the ea-81 timing gear arrangement is about as robust as you can get.Trouble here is unlikely.Check by seeing if the distributor rotor still aligns w/#1 position (or 180 degrees off) w/the flywheel timing mark aligned. I`m thinking something more like a cracked piston or a head gasket leaking compression between cyl.Loose /broken valve guide. Pull and inspect the plugs.Do a compression test if you are able. Oil on the dipstick look OK? Coolant?
  2. Bubble flares are for european cars. AFAIK,all japanese cars use standard 45 degree double flares w/metric thread fittings. It is my understanding that stainless tubing is too brittle to accept double flaring. IMO,drilling out any brake fittings is bad ju-ju. Strength loss might be negligible,might not.
  3. Sounds like it might be running lean. I would unplug the coolant temperature sensor while the engine is in a bad mood.If it improves,it may or may not indicate a faulty sensor.(probably not) Fuel pressure test too.
  4. How did you rule out fuel pump/filters? Carbed or injected?
  5. 84 gl http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx173/narunaru99/e8ee852c-1.jpg
  6. http://www.mechanicsupport.com/an_fitting_flare.html http://pipeandhose.com/?q=node/16 http://www.mechanicsupport.com/articleStronger.html
  7. 1.Doesn`t sound like it. 2.Good question.Losing any coolant? I suggest a cooling system pressure test.(cold and hot) Head cracked in the exhaust port is possible. 3.Not as far as the distributor is concerned.Vacuum signal seems normal. Original line likely "failed" because something else hooked to it failed. "all of the vacuum lines being removed" sounds scary. 4.Maybe with a FSM.Even just 1984 has 4 or 5 different routings. Short version-The same ported vacuum line that goes to the distributor goes to the EGR valve. Working EGR actually increases fuel efficiency a little.
  8. Manuals http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx
  9. Check for AC voltage(high beams,heater fan on full,2500 rpm) Your driving lights or big mutha thumping stereo may be damaging alternator diodes. If you really had a 2.5 amp draw,battery would be dead in short order.
  10. You are gonna need a 37 degree flaring tool(not standard automotive 45 degree) and special fittings. Standard sized tubing and metric threaded AN fitting adapters.(do they even exist?) Why bother with stainless? Regular brake line is a piece of cake.
  11. http://www.indysworld.com/80s/fun/projectrudy/sheet5a.jpg http://www.indysworld.com/80s/fun/projectrudy/lcparts.jpg http://www.indysworld.com/80s/fun/projectrudy/rx1-2.jpg
  12. 84 FSM says 24= Full switch fixed ON or OFF If you didn`t floor the throttle you will get this. Switch is easy to disassemble and clean.I had to. 34=abnormal aspirated air thermosensor signal (temperature sender in the airflow meter is fubared) Should have 4V supply from the ECU on the LgY. Should have measurable resistance to ground w/unplugged(not infinite). Probably the source of your misfire. Your car may be an 83 depending on the exact build date. AFAIK,trouble codes are the same 83-84. The neutral safety switches are notorious for having high resistance contacts that cause starting problems.If it starts easily by jumping the solenoid terminal to the large positive on the back of the starter w/a screwdriver,NSS,ignition switch and intervening wiring are suspect. If it starts by tapping on the starter,likely worn brushes.
  13. I thought 1984 RXs had twin carb ea-81s.Seem to remember seeing one in the NZ classifieds.
  14. Yes,that is crazy high AC voltage.Usually the dash lights go nuts w/AC.
  15. Check/change the filter again.Hopefully,it is bad again.
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