naru

It provides an intermittent ground connection to the coil. No spark. Pull the plugs.They are probably wet w/fuel by now.

If you have spark,you are golden.

Sometimes

Sure,Use the"diode check" function both directions on every possible combination of connections.(3 connections=6 tests) Make sure there are no opens or shorts. Compare to a known good one if necessary. An unwanted open is the normal fault found. A more thorough test can be conducted by powering up the module and coil on the bench and simulating the collasping magnetic field normally supplied by the rotating reluctor by holding a soldering iron close to the module.I haven`t tried this one yet.

Change the fuel filter+ignition tune.

Throttle being held open? Leaks in the intake hoses/pipes. Idle screw adjusted very badly. Timing over advanced.

It is not the computer.It is the ignition switch. Only way to keep running is to have 12 volts on the coil. Ignition switch controls this.No relays involved.No computer.

Glad it worked out for you. We like happy endings.

Check the fuel level in the carby sight glass.

The module inside the Distrib. Junkyard or dealer for the harness.

Sounds like the module wonks out when warm.The light should flicker.

You need to individually unplug each seperate item that fuse feeds. A wiring diagram would be helpful here.

If the test light does not light up when connected between battery negative and coil negative w/key on,coil is fried provided it does light up when connected to coil positive and battery negative. Light on,no flashing while cranking(probe on coil negative,lead on battery negative) indicates an ignition module problem.

Yes,try unplugging the alternator too.

Maybe EA-81s have a second filter under the car.Make sure to change it. Apparently Shucks are idiots.

167 milliamps-too many Lucky it wasn`t over 200ma.Most likely you would have blown the meter fuse.

26-30 psi at idle. If the pressure is good while driving w/prolonged boost,filter is OK. If the tach doesn`t bounce while misfiring,the ignition primary circuit(including the ignition module) is working properly. EA-81Ts will always show code 11 w/engine off.

Check for 12V at coil -,key on,when no spark. If yes,coil probably OK. Look for pulses at coil - w/a test light while cranking. Light on no flashing=bad ignition module.

Checking fuel pressure and compression are good starting points. Changing the fuel filter is always good. Check for a vacuum leaks around the injectors or intake piping.Look for cracked hoses. Unless your disty has a lot of shaft play or the diaphram is ruptured,I would not worry about it.

IMO,cleaning the injectors is a good idea. Easy enough for them to "fail" simultaneously" if a load of crud gets past the fuel filter.Or,gum up from sitting. O2 sensor failure almost never leads to lean running. I would check fuel pressure. Exhaust valves wear more because they run much hotter.

Pull 2 injectors while you are at it. Reverse thier positions and see if the problem moves.

Check for spark when it doesn`t start.

Classic fuel starvation symptoms. Change the filter.

Yes,some things in the factory manuals are BS.

VF-1,2,4,7 makes no difference. The non-rotating rebuild parts are the same for all IHI RHB5 turbos except for 2 different width bearings.I think subarus are 6mm. Here is one that comes w/both bearing sizes: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo-Repair-Kit-97-99-Chrylser-Voyager-2-5L-IHI-RHB5-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a0cf16c60QQitemZ180605774944QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Or,if you don`t like ebay http://www.turbomaster.info/eng/catalogs/model.php?base=ihi&pagina=RHB5