naru

Probably because you are activating the knock sensor even w/super at 14psi. Easy enough to tell by monitoring the phase control signal voltage from the knock control computer while driving.(BY wire on the ignition module)

Knock sensor can only react to detonation that is already happening.

Higher octane fuel doesn`t burn slower. Octane rating has nothing to do w/flame speed,just detonation resistance. You should read the gasoline FAQ. http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/part1/

Nah. The octane # is a measure of detonation resistance under specified conditions not actual octane content.

Stickers fall off. To see if you have a LSD: Jack the rear wheels off the ground. Rotate one side by hand. If the other wheel turns the same direction,you have a LSD.

Probably. Always buy the best gas you can afford w/a turbo. One tank of 87 will be OK.Just don`t use heavy throttle.

That is a silly shotgun repair method. However,if I was replacing the VR,I`d make sure to get a modern solid state one rather than the antiquated electromechanical type.

"the RPMs go up, the car barely moves." Is there anything more that needs saying?

Kits.

Lots of those on ebay.About$50.

You may find what Briggs and Stratton says about spark colour interesting. "A bright blue spark is best. A yellow/orange spark signifies weak ignition. Not true. Spark color determines virtually nothing. The hottest spark is ultraviolet which we can't see. Blue spark is cold in comparison to ultra-violet. Orange and yellow come from particles of sodium in the air ionizing in the high energy of the spark gap."

Doubt it is a spark issue,but,worth checking for the time it takes. Blue=good, Orange=bad Better indicator of spark strength is the size of gap it will jump. A cheapo spark tester like this is a great tool. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Thexton-404-Adjustable-Ignition-Spark-Tester-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2a123007QQitemZ400137793543QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools Sounds more like it is flooding. Fuel pressure is a little high. You should not see a "steady stream into barrels at idle". Fuel should only enter below the throttle plate at idle. Burning plastic smell is suggestive of the infamous ASV reed valve meltdown. Search for ASV for more on that.

I didn`t bother w/gaskets.I used Hi-temp Permatex silicone.Been working for 2-3 years now. I`m sure the dealer has gaskets.

Timing light.

Test compression.

Sounds like it is lean for some reason despite the rich smelling exhaust to me. Check carefully for a vacuum leak especially in the intake tubing. I would try it w/the TPS disconnected and also measure the TPS resistance. 3rd would be to check fuel pressure or at least change the filter. 4th,clean the MAF and/or try a junkyard one.

Resistance sounds wrong. ej22 TPS should range between approx. 3000-12,000 ohms w/throttle movement.(white/black wires) TPS also has a switch as well as a potentiometer.(brown/black wires)

You don`t have any points. If you have spark,don`t be too concerned about the distributor. Got fuel in the carb sight glass? Take the plugs out to verify they are not fuel fouled or otherwise bad.Reinstall. Timing is probably a little off. Easiest way to get it close is to have a second person move the distributor around while attempting to start.When it fires,you are there.

Sender

What kind of tests? Real test is the car barely moving and the squealing in high torque situations. Clutch is NFG,as suggested.

Section 2-5 of the ej22 manual here may be helpful. http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx I don`t think you have a rad switch after all. The poorly written factory manual states there is one and then clearly shows that there isn`t. VSS=vechicle speed sensor Its interaction w/the fans is probably more complex than I originally presumed. Gleaning info from an incorrect FSM,it seems fan operation is governed by which of 3 road speed brackets the car is in and wether accellerating or decellerating as well as coolant temperature.

Sounds normal to me. Did you replace the coolant temperature sensor or the radiator switch? FYI,the VSS also controls the fans.(turns them off above a certain speed, I presume)

P1101Neutral Position Switch Circuit High Input (A/T) P1101Neutral Position Switch Circuit Malfunction (M/T) Check plugs and wires for the hesitation.

Yes,look for steady 12V+. Check the pump ground if the positive side is OK. The pump should not quit unless the engine does. Your pump may be tired. Take the fuel filter(s) off and try to blow thru it.

+1, Great answer!